Three days in Peak Wilderness – Walking Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa and Rajamale – Sandagalathenna trails to Sri Pada

Few months ago myself and Mithila got together and thought of doing the last two remaining trails of Sripada which were Dehena kanda/Hapugastenna trail and Morray/Rajamale estate foot path. We intentionally postponed this journey to march hoping that the path would be cleared off by then. This was a long awaited dream for me and this year it came true. This time our group was a huge one comprising 7 Lakdasun members and others been Theshantha’s family members. I knew this was going to be a unique experience that i will never ever forget and indeed it was.

After 4 days of planning it was time to go on this special pilgrimage. As planned all of us arrived at Mukkuwatta of Hapugastenna upper division around 10am (by a hired van) and started packing up our stuff for the last time. At the starting point there is a small shrine and at the backdrop of it one can appreciate the mountain ranges of Sripada reserve standing tall like a wall. After finishing religious rituals we got down through the tea patch towards the miniature stream of Rath Ganga where few leeches were there to welcome us. After crossing over towards Somarathna ambalama (which is the only ambalama we came across during our whole journey) we applied Alum (AlSO4) and started climbing uphill through a well cleared forest path. The forest was full of bamboo and other huge trees giving the surrounding environment a 100 percent greenly appearance. Somehow after about 500m we reached our next land mark which was Wewal dola. From here onwards it was a continuous uphill journey. Not like other trails Dehenakanda route is full of ascends and very little flat terrain. After traveling more that 1km we reached our next landmark which is Wellakkara galge. It was a small less spacious cave which sheltered all ten of us from an unexpected passing shower.

happy faces at hapugastenna

Directions

Hapugastenna upper division

top of the tea estate

sadu sadu sadu

off we go

Rath ganga

Somarathna ambalama

our only enemy

on the way climbing through the forest

Wewel dola

petals

life

resting at wellakkara galge

After refreshing ourselves we got in to our raincoats and off we went. The nature of the trail became tough than we expected the ascend was a non-stop continues one and we were forced to take plenty of pit stops and sips of occasional Jeevani. We did come across two caves and the last one was a where we decided to have a break. The last cave was Ihala rama gala(Bedigala?) according to our assumptions. From here onwards it was like we were never going to stop climbing and the knees were almost knocking on our chins. The only advantage we had was the path been wide and clear. We were winding around Rath kanda all this time and at last we reached Bothiya dola where we sat and shared what we brought for lunch. At this point i decided to go downhill along the stream to find a small waterfall which Chaturanga and the gang had seen during their visit. It was indeed beautiful and totally worth the effort.

giant millipede

the path

more to climb(despite the rain)

Pahala rama gala cave(not sure)

green it was

misty path

ferns

ha here are some illegal activities commonly carried out

ihala rama gala cave(where we rested)

ඇටි කෙහෙල්

wow it was well arched

Bothiya dola where we had lunch

a waterfall at bothiya dola

When we restarted our journey it was passed 4pm and once again it was a steep climb that awaited us. We were exhausted within no time, Podda had been shifting from one shoulder to another all the way and his parents were exhausted more than anyone. Just before and after Bothiya dola, peak of Bena samanala could be seen. It was getting darker by the minute and we were rushing in search of Battulu oya where we planned to camp. We were now traveling along the base of Bena samanala and the terrain was almost flat for about 1Km for the first time. We also did note Adams peak for the first time thanks to its well lit up summit. Though the trail was flat it was pitch dark and the roots crossing the path were death traps so we had to use our head lamps to overcome this difficulty. After passing three streams and a Mana patch we decided not to continue further. We found a clear area on the path suitable for camping and this was indeed our night resting place. After dropping down our stuff Kasun & I went back to help the rest of the group who were yet to come while Mithila and others started pitching the tents. After regrouping we decided to cook some noodles at around 8pm. We were lucky that the sky had cleared off and there were no major threats of further showers. We started at an elevation of 700m and ended up close to 1600m at the end of the day while traveling something close to 7km. We were so exhausted so within no time we felt a sleep but on back of our minds we were little bit worried about elephants and notorious bears of Benasamanala.

colours of nature

plenty of bark mushrooms

and more

still traveling its passed 6pm

Bena samanala

it was getting dark but the terain was flat

through the marshy land

our dinner

Next day at around 5am birds started to chuckle but the cold temperature didn’t warrant us to creep out of the tents. Somehow we decided to wrap up things quickly and get to Battulu oya where we planned to cook and reorganize ourselves. From where we camped to the river it was about 700m and just before we started descending we saw the summit of Adams peak clearly for the first time and the words “sadu sadu sadu” came effortlessly. The river Mahaweli/Menik as known to the locals is actually Battulu oya and the location is undeniably a paradise! There is a buildup shrine on the opposite bank where people can engage in their religious rituals. The river forms a beautiful cascade at this site which tempted us to climb down for a clear view. Further upstream there is a huge water collection based by sand and pebbled rocks which is a wonderful place to swim around and Harinda couldn’t resist the temptation . Dry fire wood was hard to find and cooking took some while because of that. Few of us didn’t forget to jump in to the icy cold river and last at least for few seconds . After having some rice with “seeni sambol” and “karavila” we repacked quickly because it was already 11am. Just before we left this paradise a local “nade” from Wewelwatta arrived from Dehenakanda and they were bit surprised to see us. According to them about 200 locals get-together and clears the whole path in two days yearly as a “sharamadane” but this year they have not cleared (clearing abandoned due to bad weather conditions at that time) the last stretch and we did note the significance of that later on that day.

next day morning getting ready to leave(we camped on a flat path)

dawn

the tree which everyone photographed

බෝවිටියා

unique to mountanious forest

first clear view of adams peak

summit zoomed

Paradise

Battulu oya cascading

reflection

wow and wow

morning rays

slow shutter speed worked well

and it flows towards fishing huts

webbed

my shadow

burning dirt

note the sand bed

a small cascade

life is everywhere

rays

best ever swimming pool

crystal clear

smoked

wushimale(geththampana) near the river

a nade

We had to ascend again and after about 1km we reached a flat area where Adams peak was seen clearly again. Few hundred meters downwards was the last stream we would come across. When i checked the maps and google earth i found out that this was the main feeder of Battulu oya. After regrouping we decided to start the final ascend. After giving room to the previously mentioned “nade”(who were passing us) we started creeping through the tall Nelu trees which were not cleared off this year. The weather got bad to worse and the thick undergrowth was not helping the cause. This was going to be a never ending climb and we couldn’t see any further than few meters ahead, with our luggage on our backs and fronts it was simply hazardous, the only plus point we had was our walking sticks which worked as a third leg. No words can describe what we went through during this last 4 hours. Finally we emerged out of the thick forest cover and the surrounding peaks were getting clearly visible with each foot we climbed. And at last we saw what we were climbing all this time. Yes it was the “maha giri dambe” and seen it per se boosted up our spirits. The loudness of our “thun sarane kavi” was magnified and we gained strength through this spiritual feeling. At around 4pm we met the cemented steps of Rathnapura/Erathna road close to a cemented water tank 50m below Ehela kanuwa.

more hatu

rooted path

Samanala kanda as seen some where close to the last stream

main tributary of battulu oya(base of adams peak stream)

through the desartarous path

had some life to smile

while climbing maha giri dambe

bena samanala and darmarajagala as seen while climbing maha giri dambe

we emerged out somewhere close to the water pump room on the left of the Rathnapura route

heramitipana

adiyamalatenna

life after the rains

prominent peaks

towards Pettigala(we came through this gap

7 virgins

beautiful

All of us were wet and exhausted but with less effort we got to the “uda maluwa” and halted ourselves in a hallway. While we were at the “uda maluwa” we met the “nade” from Wewelwatta who completed the path in 8hours and they were a very kind and sharing group who helped us in many ways. We were lucky enough to witness a sun set, it was a wonderful site seen how the setting sun lighting up the lagoons in the western coastal belt. The head priest and Mr Nilantha was kind enough to allow us to stay in a small room and also offering us some tasty pol sambool + parippu + rice which was like a feast from the gods for us who were exhausted after completing the 12km trail from Hapugastenna.

Maussakele reservoir

silver skys around sri pada

plenty of yellow eareds at the summit

warmath from dolos mahe pahana

Seethagangula 1 ella

towards sama chittya at nallathanni

just before the mist

pettigala emerging out of the mist

all 3 peaks finally caught together

sun is setting

the western coastal line and lagoons lit up

wow cotton effect

magical

living in heaven

Nallathanni and maskeliya at night

Rathnapura and Erathna trails as seen from Ehela kanuwa

Rathnapura at night(take from the toilet)

Day 3 at 5.30am we went on to the freezing “uda maluwa” which was jammed pack by pilgrims who were waiting to see the sun rise(Ira sewaya) which no one has witnesses for the past 7 days because of the bad weather. But it was our lucky day we witnessed the rising sun over Horton plains and also the unique triangular shadow of the mountain over Kunudiya parwathaya. Been the 4th highest peak and also been isolated from the central hills Adams peak is the best Arial view point of Sri Lanka. The list of land marks is never ending so i will not list it out here. At around 8am after finishing our religious rituals at “uda maluwa” we started descending through the Hatton route and 100m below the summit we came across the Bhagava lena where one can find a painting of king Nissankamalla and a quite long inscription signifying his visit to Adams peak. We came across another small cave with an inscription further down.

Maussakele at 5.30am

Piduruthalagala seen far away

towards balangoda Pettigala

summit of sri lanka

brightening by the second

Totupola,Kirigalpoththa and agrapathana peaks

Sadagalatenna as seen from the summit

pinkish moussakele

towards wewelwatta

summit of Piduruthalagala

wow here she comes

wow at last it was 6.15am —

ඉර සේවය

sun rise from horton plains

good morning sri lanka

Hatton route jam packed

shadow of adams peak created on mist

the four peaks

shadow at the backdrop of kunudiya parwuthaya

towards erathna & kuruwita

ahas gangawa

Dharmarajagala

Bena samanala

colouful

towards lakshapana

towards Redella

bells of heaven

shadow proper

proudly waving flag

Kabaragala and far away is Alagalla

crowdy uda maluwa

far away mountains belongs to knuckles range

කෝඩු පදුරු

නඩේ

maoussakele reservoir

භගවා ලෙන

King Nishshankamalla

the inscription – Click Image to Enlarge

clear skies

towards redella and piduruthalagala

another inscription at another cave

side view

සාම pagoda

Just after passing the last “kade”(boutique) and just before the railing and steps ended there was a turn off to the right, this is the trail end of Morray estate path. First few hundred meters should be traversed with caution because chances of stumbling upon human dumping is high the path is very scenic and initially the terrain is not so difficult but with no time You will come across a steep descent which one needs to tackle with caution. The path is well cleared and it will not be a difficult task even during the off season. After getting down from the “maha giri dambe(long descend)” we had some bread as breakfast at a flat area.

end point of Morray estate trail

down we go

changing shape

towards gawarawila

beautiful scenery

patterns

perfectly framed

climbing down maha giri dambe

contrast

mountanious forest

on the way scenery

the peak

a rare flat path

About 1.8km from the summit is the midpoint called Sandagalatenna which is a wide open area where one can have a picture post card view of Adams peak while lying on the flat rock. We were forced to have a break under the sun for a while at this point. Lokka and Podda on the other hand loved running around at Sandagalatenna while others had a sun bath . Though the sky was crystal clear in the morning the clouds started to build up in no time so it was time to rush down. After Sandagalatenna we came across the first stream which was 800m away. We had to refill at this point because our water store had depleted. About 500m away from the stream we were trekking parallel to Battulu oya which was flowing producing a huge roar. We came across a small flat rock less than 100m from the above said point. From here onwards the last part of the journey was a steep descent. After about 1km we reached a relatively flat area and just before the end of the trail there was a stream drooling along a rock across the path. Finally after 3 days of strenuous hiking we successfully ended our pilgrimage at the tea estate. There was a nice ice “paella” which washed away our tiredness. There was a van waiting to collect us from the trail head which was arranged by Theshantha’s friend. We arrived at Hatton and dropped ourselves at “Matara bath kade” where we “bada palenda kewa”. From Hatton we got in to a bus and went towards our end destinations. This was one of those amazing adventures one can ever experience in their life time. The unity and like mindedness was the one and only factor that contributed to the success of our journey. And from the eldest to the little 2 year old, all played their part in this great spiritual adventure to Adams peak

beautiful view of adams peak from සදගලතැන්න

the peak as seen from sadagalatenna

wow

paradise of sadagalatenna

and the path continues

the cleared path

at last water

the stream where we refilled was crossing the trail

small flat rock

a second to stop and smile

down the pallam again

obstacles

the last part

gates to civilization

finally the end

our peela

gloomy scenery

a tea hut

Rajamale(Morray estate)

towards gartmore