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Business cum Pleasure – Pic Journey 4…

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Year and Month 4 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 1 Day
Crew 2 (Sheham & Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car, Jeep
Activities Safari, Photography, Bird Watching, Business, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kotte->Borella->Peliyagoda->Puttalam->Saliyawewa along Puttalma-A’Pura Road and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better to start the Safari as early as possible.
  • The Park opens at 6.00am but on 04th Feb they delayed us by 20 mins. (Doesn’t look much but you gotta be there to realize the importance of even a minute)
  • Bobby is a very good jeep driver who lives at Wilpattu Junction. Highly recommended. (075-6254141, 077-4059971, 077-7748132)
  • Palpatha is an Eco-Lodge located near Saliyawewa Army Camp 700m from the Puttalam-A’Pura main road just before the iron bridge. You can check more info on their website (http://www.palpatha.com/)
  • Please obey the park rules and regulations.
  • Take water with you.
  • Do care for the Nature and Wildlife. Don’t do anything harmful to them.
  • You can check the Pic Journey 3 here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

04 February, the National Day of Sri Lanka and an island-wide holiday for us all. While the entire nation prepared for the 66th Independence Ceremony, Sheham and I left for Wilpattu during the wee hours of February 04. This all happened in a hurry when Sheham said that he’d be heading to Palpatha, an Eco-Lodge near Saliyawewa Army Camp, for an official visit and asked if I was willing to join him. Jumping at the opportunity and the idea of doing a quick recce of Wilpattu (I’d never been there before) made it a very tempting offer.

I jumped with both feet and decided to leave during wee hours of the National Day. We left earlier that anticipated coz Sheham was suffering from insomnia and reached Puttalam around 3.45am. Turning towards the Anuradhapura road we continued passing Elephant roaming areas of Thabbowa and Karuwalagaswewa hoping for a glimpse of a jumbo. But to our disappointment, none of them bothered to come out for a glance.

Tour Highlights:

  • Quick glance through Wilpattu
  • Bird Watching at Palpatha
  • Sunset @ Mundalama Lagoon

We reached Palpatha around 4.30am and decided to take a nap till the caretaker got up. Finally at 5.00am having left the equipment needed for the work there, we headed towards Wilpattu Junction where Bobby, our driver, waited. We left the car and got into his brother’s Bolero 4-wheel drive jeep (most commonly available kind of jeep at Wilpattu) coz both his modern Mitsubishi L200 jeeps were on hire. It was freezing cold in Wilpattu and I’d never imagined it could get that cold there. It was like Nuwara Eliya and the temperature must’ve been around 20 degrees or even less. Sheham and I were shivering in the open jeep but the luxuriously done cushion sheets provided a comfy sitting position. The whole area was covered in a moderate layer of mist too.

Having reached the entrance at 5.45am, we waited anxiously with many others who’d come from different parts of the country to visit this gigantic wildlife-rich beauty. However, the officials didn’t see it that way and didn’t appear till 6.20am to issue tickets (20 precious minutes wasted). As usual the ticket prices didn’t cease to amaze us. They even charged us Rs. 300/- for a tracker even though none was available.

Bobby had seen two young leopards the day before so we were very excited for a leopard sighting coz I’d not seen one properly. We passed many other animals especially a wild boar family of two parents and 20+ tiny ones running in a straight line one after the other. It was such a superb sight unfortunately couldn’t take a pic as we were so engrossed in watching them. We reached where Bobby had seen the leopards and there was a rotting flesh smell which nearly made me throw up. It had been the hunt the leopards had done before but there was no sign of them. We waited fruitlessly and decided to roam around with no success. On the way back out of the park, we got a similar smell but not a sign of a leopard.

Just at the gate we saw a flock of Hornbills feasting on some fruits noisily. There might’ve been about 2 dozen of them and it was a very welcome sight. So my first-ever Wilpattu Safari, which lasted a bit under 4hrs, ended without much of a drama.

Look at all the places and how far they are

Look at all the places and how far they are

First visit

First visit

Bobby opening the gate

Bobby opening the gate

The misty lake

The misty lake

The path ahead

The path ahead

I can't remember the name, is this a Grey Heron?

I can’t remember the name, is this a Grey Heron?

One of my favourites

One of my favourites

On the hunt

On the hunt

Having a chat?

Having a chat?

Very observant and alert

Very observant and alert

Fearsome thug

Fearsome thug

See the contrast in color

See the contrast in color

I don't understand why this is called "Barking Deer"

I don’t understand why this is called “Barking Deer”

Crossing the road but no yellow stripes

Crossing the road but no yellow stripes

Sandy paths can be difficult to maneuoure

Sandy paths can be difficult to maneuoure

Closer to the stinking flesh

Closer to the stinking flesh

The one and only toilets are located here.

The one and only toilets are located here.

Where we had breakfast

Where we had breakfast

A big one

A big one

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Very busy to notice us

Very busy to notice us

Here they are

Here they are

Mighty hungry

Mighty hungry

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

We went to Bobby’s house back for our car and he treated us with fresh guava, pomegranate and tea. He has a very cute son who kept showing us around their house. Sheham is helping them with Solar Electricity coz the mains line is too far and very expensive to obtain. So it’s yet another helping hand from Sheham.

Guess what? This is Kurakkan

Guess what? This is Kurakkan

Being dried in the sun

Being dried in the sun

Bobby's son had trouble posing

Bobby’s son had trouble posing

Very serious look

Very serious look

Never seen her before

Never seen her before

Bitter friend

Bitter friend

Such an artistic flower

Such an artistic flower

Know the name?

Know the name?

Beautiful colors

Beautiful colors

Ready to harvest

Ready to harvest

Drying in the sun

Drying in the sun

Reminds me of Nasrudin's Story

Reminds me of Nasrudin’s Story

Juicy

Juicy

We reached Palpatha around 12.30pm and while overseeing the ongoing work, set to have a delicious lunch. The manager, Anura, at Palpatha was a very hospitable gentleman. We decided to relax in the evening and I saw plenty of birds near one of their chalets called “Kohomba”. All the chalets are named after trees growing around them such as “Siyambala”, “Kumbuk” and “Andara”. This is a very good place for bird watching and I saw many different kinds of them in the vicinity but my knowledge on birds is as good as my Greek.

I was surprised to see the enthusiasm of people both local and foreigners to live in typical village life styles. It proves how effective and peaceful our ancestors’ lives were. You wouldn’t believe the money they pay for a simple village meal and to sleep on a mud house with a thatched roof. The world is in fact, going backwards.

Thanks to the chef Bandu, I learnt 5 names of the birds I saw:

1. Golden Fronted Leafbird

2. Clamorous Reed Warbler

3. Ceylon Paradise Flycatcher – Sivuru Hora in laymen’s terms

4. Indian Paradise Flycatcher – Sudu Redi Hora

5. Black Headed Oriole – Kaha Kurulla

Around 5.00pm we left for Colombo but wanted to stop somewhere to witness the sunset. I’m a big fan of the rising and setting Sun. Fortunately we reached Mundalama Lagoon just as Sun was gliding down and took some amazing pics. The place along the lagoon looked so beautiful and ideal for camping.

Well, it turned out to be a very good Pic Journey in the end thanks to all those birds. It looks like the number of Pic Journeys are getting more and more and I’m glad about the response so far from the readers. It’s certainly a different approach by me and seems to be working.

Check out the 2 Videos of the Golden Fronted Leafbirds below:

Video 1

Video 2

Thanks a lot folks for reading and hope you enjoyed it.

Take care

 

Entrance

Entrance

Waiting patiently

Waiting patiently

Lilly pond

Lilly pond

Beautiful

Beautiful

Tiny waterway flows nearby and joins the Kala Oya, which is the southern border of Wilpattu

Tiny waterway flows nearby and joins the Kala Oya, which is the southern border of Wilpattu

Goes through the shady ravine

Goes through the shady ravine

Mmmm, the taste is super

Mmmm, the taste is super

Thatched roof

Thatched roof

"Tamarind" Tent

“Tamarind” Tent

Like camping

Like camping

Bird watching paths

Bird watching paths

Before switching to Solar, they'd used these kerosene lamps making it not so eco by emitting a lot of CO and CO2

Before switching to Solar, they’d used these kerosene lamps making it not so eco by emitting a lot of CO and CO2

A makeshift wooden bridge is the path to the Chalet

A makeshift wooden bridge is the path to the Chalet

Village house looking

Village house looking

Look at those beds and frames especially... They are solid Burutha with Thekka panels along the sides

Look at those beds and frames especially… They are solid Burutha with Thekka panels along the sides

Old lanterns

Old lanterns

They seem to grow their own food

They seem to grow their own food

Coconut leaves are being used

Coconut leaves are being used

Reminds me of the childhood house

Reminds me of the childhood house

Black headed oriole, rather Kaha Kurulla to me

Black headed oriole, rather Kaha Kurulla to me

Indian Paradise flycatcher

Indian Paradise flycatcher

Ceylon Paradise flycatcher faraway

Ceylon Paradise flycatcher faraway

Up close

Up close

Familiar birds too

Familiar birds too

Clamorous reed warbler

Clamorous reed warbler

Silhouette of a bird

Silhouette of a bird

Birds are in abundance around here

Birds are in abundance around here

Here's the star of the day

Here’s the star of the day

Golden fronted leafbird

Golden fronted leafbird

These 3 kept going in and out of the hollow

These 3 kept going in and out of the hollow

Shaking the feathers; guess the hollow is full of water

Shaking the feathers; guess the hollow is full of water

Gorgeous creature

Gorgeous creature

Another Kaha Kurulla

Another Kaha Kurulla

They are coming in numbers

They are coming in numbers

Flower of a corn

Flower of a corn

Strawberry colored blonde

Strawberry colored blonde

Unknown one to me

Unknown one to me

Tiny pond

Tiny pond

Getting ready to sleep

Getting ready to sleep

Through the trees

Through the trees

Either side

Either side

Wow

Wow

The lagoon to the left

The lagoon to the left

And to the right

And to the right

Faraway boat right under the sun

Faraway boat right under the sun

Gone...

Gone…

Endless railway line towards Chilaw

Endless railway line towards Chilaw

Enjoy the Panos to accompany this episode. I only managed 3 of them this time and will bring more next time.

P.S. I’m a stranger when it comes to birds’ names. So correct me if I’ve got those names wrong and try to name the ones without a name too please.

 

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3


Wonderful two days in Dimbulagala & Minneriya

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Year and Month January, 2014
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 10
Accommodation Sudukanda lake resort, Girithale
Transport Hired Van (Nissan Caravan) / Jeep
Activities Photography, Visit archaeological sites, elephant safari
Weather Dry and sunny, sometimes a little gloomy, unexpectedly cold at night
Route Colombo -> Pasyala -> Kurunegala -> Dambulla -> Habarana -> Polonnaruwa -> Manampitiya -> Dimbulagala & Return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • If you are planning to go to ‘ahas maligawa’ at Dimbulagala, start very early before it gets too hot.
  • Better to climb Dimbulagala rock from Namal pokuna side as it is shady
  • You may lose the path after Kaashyapa lena for a brief distance. Get directions from the head priest
  • There are monks meditating at Nagalakanda monastery. Do not disturb them
  • It is better if you go to Nagalakanda view point in an evening. It would be a great sight during the sunset
  • If planning to go elephant safari at Minneriya, be there at the entrance before 3 pm and find a good jeep.
  • Do not opt for Indian Mahindra jeeps. Those are 2WD – so more likely to get stuck if there’s mud on the track, extremely uncomfortable – you will feel like every single bone in your body is dislodged after the ride. There are good old Mitsubishi and land rover jeeps.

** Special Thanks to ** Niroshan

Related Resources
Author KasunDes
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was a long time since the office friends went on for a trip and felt like high time for a one. After numerous planning and re-planning, we settled for the long awaited trip to Minneriya at the end of January.

We started the journey not so early as we planned due to some serious setbacks at the last moment and reached Dambulla for breakfast around 8 am where another friend joined us. After the breakfast we went straight passing Polonnaruwa towards Dimbulagala. Our first stop was at Namal Pokuna archaeological site.

Namal pokuna RMV is right by the road to Dimbulagala, at the base of Dimbulagala rock. It is a lesser visited place by the travelers though there are a lot of things to see. I got to know about Namal Pokuna after reading Nirashan’s report. You have to take to rock steps and walk a little further passing a nice dry zone forest patch to reach the archaeological site.

Rock steps tp archaeological site

Rock steps tp archaeological site

they were beautiful

they were beautiful

The path

The path

The path

The path

Entry point of the archaeological site

Entry point of the archaeological site

Namal Pokuna archaeological site is a very beautiful place with many ruins scattered in a large area. The site is well preserved and it felt like being in a park. Environment was fresh and green after recent rains, surroundings were very peaceful too. There were a lot of birds too.

what place

what place

yes, we should

yes, we should

 looked like landscaped

looked like landscaped

The wall

The wall

.

.

Entrance

Entrance

what's left

what’s left

.

.

.

.

ruins

ruins

resident

resident

.

.

WOW

WOW

.

.

.

.

Pagoda

Pagoda

.

.

.

.

.

.

alone

alone

.

.

so peaceful

so peaceful

.

.

.

.

Ruined image house

Ruined image house

vandalized

vandalized

.

.

The footpath by the side of the archeological site takes you towards the ancient drip ledged caves all the way to the herbal pond and ahas maligawa on top of Dimbulagala rock. The path runs through the shady forest where you may find a lot of birds, giant squirrels, squirrels and monkeys.

The path goes on

The path goes on

through the forest

through the forest

On the way we came across one of the most amazing things I have seen, the “Nil Diya Pokuna” (blue water pond). It was a rock pond with amazingly blue colored water.

WOW

WOW

After that we came across some drip ledged caves and finally biggest one called “Kashyapa Lena”. We lost the path at this point, so had to give up the climb to herbal pond as we were about 3 hours behind our schedule. So we returned to the base and then went to Dimbulagala RMV.

 A cave

A cave

Inscription

Inscription

Drip Ledge

Drip Ledge

Kashyapa Lena

Kashyapa Lena

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

While returning

While returning

.

.

Ahas maligawa

Ahas maligawa

Inside Dimbulagala Cave

Inside Dimbulagala Cave

Let the light in

Let the light in

We started returning towards Minneriya past noon. Had our lunch on the way, dropped our stuff at the lodge and came to the Minneriya park entrance around 3.30 pm. We had booked two jeeps, one good old Mitsubishi 4DR5 (which I jumped into with three others) and a Mahindra jeep which the rest of our crew went in and had their bones shuffled at the end of the safari.

The elephant gathering was not as great as we expected. There were only about 50-60 jumbos, considerably lesser count than the no of jeeps :-)

Painted storks

Painted storks

The first one we met

The first one we met

The tusker we met

The tusker we met

Supper

Supper

.

.

formation

formation

.

.

This little one managed sneak through the heavy guard

This little one managed sneak through the heavy guard

.

.

.

.

Milk please...

Milk please…

Cuddling

Cuddling

A triplet

A triplet

The smallest one of them all

The smallest one of them all

Dusting their way

Dusting their way

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Hunter

Hunter

hmmm what is there

hmmm what is there

the flight

the flight

.

.

The lone one

The lone one

Tree art

Tree art

one got stuck

one got stuck

Next day we visited Nagalakanda archaeological site near Minneriya town, again a place got to know thanks to Niroshan. The turn off to the monastery is just passed Minneriya town towards Habarana and it’s about 1 km from the turnoff. This an amazingly tranquil place with many ruins where monks meditate even today.

Steps to Nagalakanda monastery

Steps to Nagalakanda monastery

.

.

Ruins

Ruins

remains

remains

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

framed

framed

Towards the image house

Towards the image house

The staue was in good shape

The staue was in good shape

.

.

After seeing the ruins we took the path towards the view point (බැලුම් ගල). It was a small hike though a shady forest for about 1km. the view point had an amazing view of full 360 degrees. Though it was not a very high ground, we could see a very large area even though it was the middle of the day. The whole Minneriya tank could be seen from there.

Toward the view point

Toward the view point

Minneriya Tank seen from the view point

Minneriya Tank seen from the view point

ancient

ancient

what scenary

what scenary

Pano from the top

Pano from the top

After admiring the beauty of Minneriya area for some time, we descended and went towards habarana where we had a nice bath in Yaan Oya and returned to Colombo.

Thanks for reading.

Memoirs of Occupied Ceylon and Marooned in a Fishing Village…

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Year and Month 8-9 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew 4 (Sheham, Kasun, Kasun’s Friend Asitha and Me)
Accommodation Camping at Thalawila Beach
Transport By Car
Activities Boating, Wild Life, Photography, Archaeology, Islands, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Day 1

Dehiwala->Peliyagoda->Wennappuwa->Kalpitiya->Baththalangunduwa->Kalpitiya->Thalawila.

 

Day 2

 

Thalawila->Eluwankulama->Silavathura via Old Mannar Road through Wilpattu->Arippu->Nanattan->Mannar->Pallimunai->Mannar->Settikulam->Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale->Saliyawewa->Puttalam->Colombo.

 

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The distance to Baththalangunduwa is about 15-16 Nautical Miles (26km).
  • Mark Boat is the only ferry between the island and the mainland and berthed at the Kalpitiya Fishery Harbour. Owner Sujith 0773-286939).
  • The ferry operates every day except Sundays. It’s always a safe option to call them and check if you’re going on a Public Holiday.
  • The ferry leaves Kalpitiya in the morning at 08.30am and reaches B’Gunduwa around 11.30am. (Roughly 3 hours of travelling time.
  • The ticket price is Rs. 270/- per person one-way. They might charge extra if you carry a lot of luggage.
  • The afternoon ferry leaves B’Gunduwa at 01.30pm and arrives at Kalpitiya around 04.30pm.
  • There are no accommodation facilities available in B’Gunduwa. Camping is an option and you might also be able to stay at the school or talk to a fisherman and bunk at one of their huts.
  • You’re not permitted to take pics at Kalpitiya Fort. Navy has a camp inside and one of them will escort you. You’ll have to produce your ID to their checkpoint.
  • The Old Mannar Road runs through the Wilpattu Junction for about 40+km. Eluwankulama is the last town before that but you’re better off getting anything from either Kalpitiya or Puttalama.
  • There’s an entrance to the Wilpattu National Park near the Kala Oya but the office didn’t look occupied.
  • Be extra careful if and when you’re driving along this road coz it’s not in a good condition and very slippery. It’s bordered either side by the Wilpattu Jungle so make sure you don’t knock any wild animal by reckless driving.
  • That road is not suitable for vehicles with low ground clearance such as cars. We had a very tough time maneuvering around in our Toyota Wagon.
  • Don’t get down and move about as it’s not safe enough to do. Avoid driving in the dark, especially early morning and evening and at night.
  • The road from Puttalam towards Eluwankulam is under construction but most of it finished and in good condition. After the Wilpattu, from Marichchukkaddi till Mannar the road is under construction but about half of it is completed.
  • Doric House and Arippu Fort are located very close to each other. (Within about 1km)
  • Mannar Fort is just off the bridge entering the peninsula to your right. The Baobab tree is along the Pallimunai Road about 600-800m away from the Fort.
  • There’s a short cut when coming towards Colombo avoiding A’Pura. Travel along Medawachchiya road till Settikulam and passing the Station you’ll come to an Army Camp with a Lord Hanuman’s Statue onto your right. Take the right road which goes through Thanthirimale towards Oyamaduwa and meets the Puttalama-A’Pura main road at Nochchiyagama.
  • Don’t disturb the Nature or do anything harmful.
  • Respect the wildlife and obey the rules.
  • Be careful travelling in the ferry.
  • Try not to disturb the fishermen and their families living in B’Gunduwa.
  • Take plenty of water or any drinks.
  • Caps or Hats are a must if you wanna avoid the scorching sun. Sunscreen is a good solution too.
  • Parking your vehicle at Fishery Harbor is possible. Do inform the security and you’ll have to pay Rs. 50/- for parking.
  • Visiting hours of Kalpitiya Fort is from 09.00am to 05.30pm.
  • Special Thanks to the Beach Traveler, Nishantha Kahawita.
  • Don’t waste water coz you gotta go see these people to know how valuable water is and we just take it for granted and waste it at will.
  • Don’t waste electricity either. You have to go see how much they suffer without electricity so save it as much as possible.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“What on earth are you hammering the keyboard so much for?” – One of my colleagues doesn’t approve my constant tapping.

“Just writing a report, you silly” – I retort.

“How many reports have you written so far?” – He’s trying to take the mickey out of me.

“Well, I don’t know. Why do you ask?” – I’m beginning to lose my cool.

“You don’t know? You’re constantly tapping on the darn keyboard but don’t even know how many reports have you done? What a funny thing?” – The bugger is relentless.

I quickly checked and found to my own amazement that there are 46 reports published under my name. Oh dear, have I seriously written that many? I asked myself.

“46” – I casually replied wanting this stupid conversation to be over.

“All of them on-line? You’re counting the ones you’ve not even written right?” – Dear God, I seriously wanna hammer this fella.

“No you snob, it’s 46 online and I’ve some unpublished ones as well” – I quickly checked and found there are 2 more to be published and 1 to be written.

“Seriously? Let’s have a look.” – God save me and my soul. I had to get this over with so decided to just let him have a peek at my desktop.

After looking through them he asks “What are you gonna do about your Half Century?”

“What half-century?” – Since when this bugger started talking in Greek?

“Your 50th report buster, what else?” – Holy Moly Guacamole!!! That one. “I ain’t decided anything yet. But now that I know, gotta do something special”.

“Oh yeah, you gotta do something very special. I’ll be waiting for that report” – What about the other reports, I felt like asking but decided to get on with my work and with that finally the end of conversation.

Wow, 50 trip reports in just over 18 months is something I’d never dreamed of. That night at home while glancing through the news I heard a magical word. Baththalangunduwa!!!

Just managed to switch it over to the proper channel and got the news. There were people and reverends protesting against taking over Baththalangunduwa fishing island from the native villagers so that our power-greedy corruptive politicians can make money by selling it to some foreigner. B’Gunduwa has been a fishing village for generations and the people who stay there have migrated from the western coastal areas such as Negombo, Chilaw, Puttalam, Mannar, etc. They feel it’s their birthright to do fishing from this island located roughly 16 nautical miles from the mainland Kalpitiya.

B’Gunduwa was not a stranger to me thanks to the Beach Traveler Program which is one of my all-time-favorites. In his tour around SL along the coast, the beach traveler (Nishantha Kahawita), travels to B’Gunduwa and spend a night there. Since then, I always wanted to go there. His program had helped me in the recent past to find places to visit and I marked it under top-priority list. However, over time, other trips made it push further back in my list.

So when I heard this on TV, everything fell into place like a long lost jigsaw puzzle. Couldn’t think of a better time to go there like the present due to two reasons.

1. Need something special for the 50th episode.

2. If the powers-that-be decided to take over this island, then no amount of protest will save it. (Having a quick look of the recent past proves this point).

So I immediately called one of my long-standing travel partner Sheham and submitted the proposal. Sheham, being Sheham, jumped in the idea and said yes without even consulting his business calendar. Next in line was the Uncle Tony but he was having a difficult time with his job and said he might not be available. Hariya had also shown a keenness to visit the island but had to give up at the last minute co he had to do the watcher man at home. The other old fella, Athua agreed to come and I just called Kasun as well. I’m thankful I called him coz he saved the day by bringing one of his friends, Asitha as Athula had to pull back due to a personal problem at home. (Second time you missed out Atha).

Day 01

So on the 8th morning, around 2.00am Sheham picked me and we drove to Wennappuwa to pick Kasun and Asitha. E3 made it really quick and when I called Kasun somewhere in the middle of E3, he was still fast asleep. Our reaching soon his friend’s place put things in motion but we politely declined an offer of cuppa coffee from Asitha’s mother as reaching Kalpitiya ASAP was top priority. I’m now a bit worried about having to waste time for flat tires and other unpredictable problems after our delay in my Rail Hike Stage 5. The going was pretty good as the roads were isolated, no poisonous gases emitting from decades old engines. Our conversation was running wild with all the topics from Area 51 to Spies of Russia to the origin of Amazon River. It was so interesting as 4 different people talking in turns about various things. The night simply wore on and we found all of a sudden that we’d reached the Kalpitiya turn off.

It was 40km from there and the road is very wide nicely done passing the Puttalam Salt Factory and staff quarters of doomed Norochcholai power plant. At certain parts the road is still being constructed, especially the bridge about 1-2km off the turn off. We made good time and closer to Kalpitiya saw a statue of a donkey on the roadside. Gosh, not an actual statue but a very still donkey in the dark. Surprisingly those donkeys at Kalpitiya area seem to be too lazy even to move a hair on their body. Wonder how on earth they manage to stay like that.

We found ourselves at the Fishery Harbor of Kalpitiya. Our entering into the premises woke the security officer and he came running to see if a boat is coming along the road instead water. I’m sure he must’ve relieved to find it’s just a car. We told him that we were planning to go spend the weekend at Baththalangunduwa (refereed as BG hereafter) camping. He was very fascinated and gave us a lot of information about the island and Kalpitiya. It was lucky that we talked to him because we prevented a near catastrophic end to our magnificent journey.

We were planning to camp in BG and return on the afternoon ferry the following day, Sunday. However, we weren’t aware of the fact that the ferry is not functioning on Sun. Even when I called the Mark Boat and told them our plans, we weren’t told about this. I guess it was a miscommunication on both parties coz we emphasized on the dates 8 and 9 instead of Sat and Sun. Thanks to the security guy we got to know this before the journey and had to resort to abort the camping and spending the night somewhere else. I felt so down but thankfully Sheham came up with the idea of camping somewhere close by and doing the Puttalam-Mannar stretch on the following day.

None of us had done it before so it was a very welcome idea and we all embraced it with both hands. You know there’s a saying that “Everything happens for good” and we too thought as much and at the end of the journey figured it really happened for good as we managed to cover a whole lot of things in that 48 hours instead of only camping at BG. We had our breakfast of Tempered onions mixed with chilies, tomatoes and boiled eggs with sliced bread. The morning sun was creeping over the horizon and lit up the jetty full of different sized boats arrived in the night after a long stretch of fishing. Suddenly Kasun shouted and looking back I saw this glowing lava ball like Sun appearing at the edge of the horizon. What a sight it was!

I simply forgot the breakfast and Kasun ruined his hanky trying to wipe the curry-stained hands to get at the camera. We savored it to the max while the crows were coming in numbers sensing a free meal. There were a few dogs too and they had a rough time chasing the greedy crows. We shared the last bit of our bread with them coz the sunrise filled our heats and lifted our spirits. Finally we were ready to rock ‘n’ roll.

Tour Highlights:

1. 6-Hour ferry ride in total

2. Baththalangunduwa, a world of its own

3. Documentary on the Fight for Water in BG

4. Dutch Fort, Kalpitiya

5. Camping at Thalawila

6. Drive through the Wilpattu along Old Mannar Road

7. Doric House

8. Dutch Fort, Arippu

9. Portuguese & Dutch Fort, Mannar

10. Biggest Baobab Tree, Pallimunai

11. Pics of My Sister

12. Collection of Panos

We decided to visit the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort before the departure of ferry at 8.30am. When went to the entrance about 200m away from the jetty the navy officials informed us the visiting hours are from 09.00am till 5.00pm. Then we told them about our failed attempt at camping on BG and won’t be able to make it on time to see the fort. Then they said even till 5.30pm it would be ok so we left for the jetty yet again.

Longest Ferry Ride to date

I called Sujith and told him that we were at the jetty and he too was very confused about our miscommunication but could do nothing at the time. However he promised to inform the manager of the Ferry about us and give us a bit of breathing space in case we were a bit late on the return journey. Paul came and talked to us and the two helpers on the ferry were very cheerful and pointed us to sit on the shady side and took care of our 2 5-litre water bottles.

There were a lot of people waiting to get on board and many sacks of different kinds of goods were also being loaded into the cargo bay underneath. This ferry is the only connection between the island and the mainland. You could even say it’s the lifeline of those people. There are a plenty of small fishing craft that can run between the two but for those fishermen doing it between the island and the mainland is very costly, about Rs. 3500/- – Rs. 4000/- worth fuel which is way too much for their liking.

So the ferry is the only viable method of transporting people and goods in between. However we felt that there’s too much dependent on this single ferry giving a kind of monopoly to the owners. Just wondering what it would be like if the ferry stopped operating due to a malfunction for a few days. I hope they have replacement in place but didn’t see any sign of it. We boarded and sat along the shady edge. The layout is kinda funny coz the boat is three-tiered. The bottom (under the waterline) is the crew quarters, washroom and cargo bay. The mid-section above the water line is the passenger hold. Passengers sit on a wooden platform that provides little or no comfort (Beggars can’t be choosers, I guess) especially when the sea is rough. Thankfully it was nice and calm when we were on board. Above it is the roof-cum cargo-passenger hold without a shelter. I guess it’s a good viewing spot especially in the morning run but you’re bound to get sun burned due to direct exposure.

We were relieved to be on the shady side as the boat finally laden with so many essential items and about 50 people left the safety of the jetty into the Dutch Bay. It’s actually the extension of Puttalm lagoon along the arm of Kalpitiya Peninsula on the left and Eluwankulama and Wilpattu Jungle on the right. If you wanna look for BG on the map, just look right across the Kudiramale Point to the left about 5-6 nautical miles off. The navy boys look less busy now the terrorists are wiped off the face of our country. However, they have to stay vigilant as the stinking Indians continuously breaching our sea areas and the biggest threat for our youth, the illegal drug smuggling too seems to be happening across Negombo via Jaffna along the North Western coast.

About half hour into the journey somebody yelled “Dolphins” and we were so excited and forgot for a moment that we were sitting at the edge of the boat. There were about 5-6 dolphins jumping but we couldn’t take clear shots of them as the front of the ferry had a row of people sitting. I managed to get a quick pic of a dolphin but not prominent enough. Unfortunately our ferry wasn’t in the mood to hover about and see them and sadly we passed them behind. It was my first encounter with dolphins and what a sight it was.

There were a number of tiny islets full of Kadolana trees scattered along the arm of the peninsula and the mainland too. They looked green against a blue-grey-emerald green lagoon. I found the team talking to someone and found he’s a fisherman from Negombo located at BG returning to the island. His name was Nissanka and provided us with valuable information. There was plenty of time to kill and we kept chatting with him while shooting the odd picture. All of a sudden we saw a group of Pelicans flying towards us, they were not so big and we had difficulty identifying them at first. After that there was a single Pelican so skinny flying overhead that I named the Somali Pelican.

Video 01 – Just a short video of the ferry journey.

There were an endless number of sea gulls crashing like a stone and catching fish and at times floating on the water with the waves like ducks. We got fooled at first they were real ducks. The average speed of the ferry was about 8-10km an hour. It recorded a highest speed of around 20km according to Sheham’s GPS. Time wore on and all of a sudden Nissanka showed us a distant communications tower which was at BG Navy Camp. Without even knowing we had moved from Dutch Bay to Portugal Bay but for me it was the same lagoon or rather the sea. However the water looks more clean and clear than it was close to the mainland. We could clearly see the ocean floor and the depth can’t have been more than 10ft. The water looked a gorgeous emerald green too.

There was thing that happened on the ferry I found so hilarious that I couldn’t resist laughing out loud. There was a group of travelers going to BG for a reason they didn’t know. Most of them were middle age fellas with pot bellies and a few kids with their mothers too. They were staring at us as if we’d descended that very moon from the mighty Jupiter. While we were talking among ourselves and with Nissanka, they looked at us open-mouthed as if we spoke Greek. The ladies (as usual) were very curious about what’s going on around and kept asking odd question from whoever was close to them. However, one lady found it too irresistible to wait any longer with her question and asked one of the ferrymen. I couldn’t help overhearing the most hilarious conversation in 2014.

The lady: “Meke Saththuth Innawada” – “Are there animals on the island?”

The ferry worker: “Apo Innawa” – “Of course, there are”

The lady: “Mokkuda Inne” – “What kind of animals?”

The ferry worker: “Ballo, Harak” – “Dogs and Cow”

I can assure you the real conversation in Sinhalese was far better than my sloppy translation. The lady was very serious about the question and the worker very sincerely replied to her. I couldn’t help laughing nonstop and soon had to divulge it to my team mates who couldn’t control their hysterical laughs.

The lagoon was too shallow so we kept going in an arc to reach the island coz the heavily laden ferry couldn’t risk of running aground. We kept sipping the lime and mint drink brought by Sheham and it was a godsend as we felt the heat taking its toll. There are two islands joined by a narrow sand strip which are Palliya Watta and BG. At times they get separated when the sandy bank is submerged in the tide. There’d been another island named Karathivu but now it rests peacefully under water. When the tide is out the sand banks might appear but the rising sea levels have taken care of it.

We saw just off BG some divers with face masks on as if they were snorkeling. Looking at the sea didn’t reveal anything to go snorkeling for and one of the fishermen on board solved that mystery to us. He said that those were fishermen doing a part-time job of collecting “Sangu”. It’s the Tamil name for “Hakgediya” or “Conch Shell” in English. Apparently those are a sign of good luck and sell like hot cakes among superstitious rich folks.

 

The sun is appearing in the horizon

The sun is appearing in the horizon

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Busy at work early in the morning

Busy at work early in the morning

Just appearing

Just appearing

Wow

Wow

Fiery looking lava ball

Fiery looking lava ball

Parked along the jetty

Parked along the jetty

Very important notice

Very important notice

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

1 million fine? Oh dear

1 million fine? Oh dear

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Done a good job of building this

Done a good job of building this

The Ferry

The Ferry

Another boat that carries tourists around

Another boat that carries tourists around

Team ready to rock 'n' roll

Team ready to rock ‘n’ roll

Peering at the Navy camp

Peering at the Navy camp

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Being loaded onto the ferry

Being loaded onto the ferry

Crowded

Crowded

Leaving the jetty

Leaving the jetty

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

The lush greenery islands

The lush greenery islands

Another large fishing craft

Another large fishing craft

Cheerful worker on the bow

Cheerful worker on the bow

Nissanka on the left

Nissanka on the left

Trying to reach to the roof

Trying to reach to the roof

First-ever Dolphin sighting

First-ever Dolphin sighting

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Getting their catch to the boat

Getting their catch to the boat

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

Got you

Got you

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

The comms tower in sight

The comms tower in sight

Got there

Got there

Climbing down the ladder

Climbing down the ladder

The Uniquely Placed Fishing Island – Baththalangunduwa

After it felt like an eternity, we reached the BG but there was no jetty. Instead they had improvised a ladder along which you have climb down and jump to the sandy beach. I had to jump a bit further to avoid getting my shoes wet. The strong smell of fish hit us in waves but not so bad. I guess those fishermen might not be able to take that off them for a long time, might even be lasting a lifetime. There was a row of fishing huts where the 15hp-engined craft were parked under the shade of woven coconut leaves. The whole island looked less busy coz the fishing is done for the day and most of the folks were dozing after a hard run at sea from the early morning.

There were people inside those huts sorting out fish (mainly small one such as Hurulla, Salaya, Karalla, Keeramin and a new kind called Kohombaya which sounded funny), cutting them and adding salt to prepare for dried fish. To be honest I don’t think they welcome the outsiders but stay quiet. So should you ever go there, be sure to stay out of their way as much as possible. However we found some of the keen ones inviting us to take pics of their catch. The people at BG speak mainly Tamil and Sinhalese, however there’s some strange dialect unique to them but no name. It’s a mixture of Sinhalese and Tamil. The Sinhalese and Tamil speakers of the mainland find it difficult to understand this.

E.g. They’d say “Enge Yanne?” – Enge is a Tamil word meaning “Where” and Yanne is a Sinhalese word meaning “Going”. So they are asking “Where are you going?” in a mixture of Tamil and Sinhalese. Uncle Tony knows this a lot better, so should you ever come across him, do ask. He has some very interesting things to say.

So many interesting things and we enjoyed this unprecedented journey even though the sun was up and running full blast sending scorching rays mercilessly as if to fend us off. Walking along the fishing huts didn’t provide us with many landscape shots and we decided to go to the other side. We saw the makeshift wells made by digging holes in the sand burying plastic cans about 3-4 feet deep. No doubt the water is salty but they’re using that water to do cleaning pots and other utensils. The water off the beach is not so good due to garbage and rotting fish. I even saw a couple of toilets too. Wonder how they manage to dig holes without them collapsing on their own in the sand.

Crossing all this we reached the other side of the island which is about half a kilo meter and devoid of any construction. It’s a crystal clear beach but about 50ft off the beach is their main toilet too. So watch your step folks. Funnily enough it also doubles as their waterhole where they dig holes in the sand about 2ft deep looking for less brackish water. They use it to drink and bathe. The beach was however clear of the garbage save for a group of travelers who came with us in the ferry started drinking. Can you imagine the length people go just to get drunk? I was aghast.

Avoiding the drinking party we kept exploring the beach and saw a navy water jet hovering about 3-4 nautical miles off. All of a sudden we came across a Star fish but a dead one. Never seen one before except on TV so this was a very nice encounter. There were plenty of them along the beach so we took pics of them both sides. Sea shells were very common and there were very artistic ones too which didn’t escape our exploring eyes and lens. Sheham kept reminding us about the time so we decided to walk about half a kilo meter further and take a sharp turn back to where we got off.

All of a sudden one guy materialized out of nowhere and was heading towards the beach. About half way back he squatted down and we knew what he was up to. After a few minutes he got up and left; no water or tissue. That’s the way they’re living with no hygienic facilities yet making a living and sending hundreds of tons of fish to feed us Sri Lankans. Then there were 3 guys coming towards us and we saw dug holes in the sand marking their waterhole. They were very cheerful guys and chatted with us while one of them dug the sand looking for water.

Digging water out of those sandy areas is such a cumbersome thing in a way yet very simple in another aspect. They just choose a spot clear of garbage or anything else and dig a hole in a circular way about 2 feet deep and another 2 feet in diameter. You have to do it very systematically so as not to have the walls collapsing on you. The water will slowly come up as if from a spring. Then using a small plastic cup they’d fill a larger container. According to those guys you can fill about 2-3 fairly large containers with a volume of roughly 10-20 liters.

Video 02 – The struggle to dig water at Baththalangunduwa.

They told us how difficult their lives were due to the lack of water and do switch on your headphones and listen to their story. However on the ferry Nissanka claimed that it’s so surprising that they even have this kind of drinkable water in BG coz it’s practically very small and nowhere to get fresh water. They gave us a clear cup of water to taste which Asitha sampled. He claimed it was not so bad. So it shows that miracles do happen. It’s very costly to bring water from Kalpitiya costing about Rs. 500/- for a gallon of water including all the transport costs. Just imagine how lucky we really are. Therefore please by all means save water and electricity. We offered them some of the mineral water carried with us and they very hungrily took it and gulped it down. Wish we had more water with us. They’re supposed to close the waterhole after as dogs and crows will feed on it dirtying it.

After witnessing this we decided to call it a day and head back to where we got off. It was so hot and sun was very much unforgiving. Nonetheless we were very much content deep down coz this was a life-time experience. There were many solar panels in their houses along with a few TV antennas as well. We then saw a generator near one house and the secret behind the TVs was solved finally. There were plenty of kids too playing around and can’t imagine their lives being stuck in a tiny island with nothing more than sea and fish. There were plenty of cows and dogs as well. I’d never seen such bored dogs coz they simply stared at fish and dried fish as if they didn’t give a toss. The dried fish was drying in the open as none of the dogs would bother stealing them.

Cats were no different. They too look fed up of fish and dried fish. I just imagine taking a few hundred dogs and cats from mainland and dropping them there for a few hours. They’d have a field day and need to be hospitalized for over eating. There was one shop selling the day to day items but we didn’t have time to venture into it. Having reached back where we were well before the ferry departure time gave us time to recollect our thoughts. The ferry wasn’t there which gave us a jolt but around 1.30pm it was coming towards us having toured around couple of other places dropping and taking cargo and people. The stop we got off is called Sinna Gunduwa (small Gunduwa).

It was time to go and we bid our farewell to this unique place and got on board the less crowded ferry. Once again we were lucky to get the seating on the shady side facing Wilpattu and Eluwankulama. Funny thing was there were quite a few small fishing boats catching up with the ferry bringing more passengers and cargo, mainly fish or dried fish packed tightly in cardboard or rigifoam boxes. It was so fun to listen to the exchange between boats and their dialect was completely off my limits. The going was more or less easier compared to the morning one as the waves were rolling along with us instead of towards us. I could figure out the beloved Gange Wadiya in the distance with the Navy RABS (Rapid Action Boat Squadron) camp clearly visible. You can read our Gange Wadiya Adventure over here if interested.

The Kala Oya and the Kumburawa River where the Elephant Tree (allegedly the second largest Baobab tree in SL) located were easy to distinguish. Aruwakkalu Limestone Quarry was also there and the destruction is clearly visible from the ferry. There’s a stretch about 4km all looking reddish at places among replanted trees. This is where they’ve dug deep and extracted the limestone for producing cement. This area is a frequent living place for the Camalian but this kinda destruction doesn’t help their well-being. It won’t be long before they’ll be extinct from this are. This exploration keeps on going at a more devastatingly speed. Repercussions of privatization are clear for all to see.

We got a big fright when I saw one of the workers unloading bucket after bucket of oily water from the below deck and went to inspect. To my horror water was leaking inside and the worker was working furiously to get them out of the boat as quickly as possible. The mainland was looming closer so we felt somewhat subdued. It was a back-breaking task but he kept at it.

Video 03 – Back breaking task of unloading water of the BG ferry on return journey.

We got back at the jetty around 4.30pm and said our thanks to Paul and his assistants. Got back to the car and had a long pull on the lemon and mint drink and headed towards the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort.

 

The fishing huts are all along the beach

The fishing huts are all along the beach

Yet another fishing raft

Yet another fishing raft

That day's cache

That day’s cache

It's the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

It’s the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Few big ones too

Few big ones too

Getting the dried fish ready

Getting the dried fish ready

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Here's the Kohombaya

Here’s the Kohombaya

Temporary well for washing the crockery

Temporary well for washing the crockery

They are playing

They are playing

Not many trees like these

Not many trees like these

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Water buffalo? Up close it's actually a dog in the water coz it's too hot even for them

Water buffalo? Up close it’s actually a dog in the water coz it’s too hot even for them

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

Very beautiful

Very beautiful

Never thought she'd look this nice when I took it

Never thought she’d look this nice when I took it

One of the waterholes

One of the waterholes

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it's croc

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it’s croc

The team

The team

One of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen

One of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen

Sea shell X'mas tree, made by Sri

Sea shell X’mas tree, made by Sri

Colorful shells all around

Colorful shells all around

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Black Pearl?

Black Pearl?

Here's the star of the day - Starfish

Here’s the star of the day – Starfish

Belly of it

Belly of it

Looked nice through the lens

Looked nice through the lens

Some life on the unforgiving soil

Some life on the unforgiving soil

If they were in dark fatigues, you'd mistake them for a group of soldiers

If they were in dark fatigues, you’d mistake them for a group of soldiers

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I'm not mistaken

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I’m not mistaken

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Stunning colors

Stunning colors

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

Taken some measures to make sure they're not exposed to dogs and cats

Taken some measures to make sure they’re not exposed to dogs and cats

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Plenty of these all around

Plenty of these all around

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

How on earth can they sleep here?

How on earth can they sleep here?

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Back breaking task

Back breaking task

Bored

Bored

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

Looking at the back

Looking at the back

Navy on constant patrols

Navy on constant patrols

Navy jetty

Navy jetty

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Waiting to jump out

Waiting to jump out

Time to go

Time to go

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Camping at Thalawila

There are no pics to show you of the Kalpitiya Fort which is so much irritating. We went to the gate and Navy people took about 15 mins making up their minds and getting someone to escort us inside. “No Cameras or Phones” was their motto and we felt so frustrated having gone there all the way not being able to take a pic of this piece of wonderful creation. The soldier who took us gave a running commentary as if replaying a recorded cassette. I’m sure he’s done it hundreds of times and now it’s more like listening to a computer operated robot. However he was very friendly and answered our questions as best as he could. Inside it was a disaster as Navy had added numerous structures and using the interior open area as their playground.

However on a previous visit Sheham and his team had been given the permission to take pics by their escort but they’d left all their camera equipment in the cars. So it looks different messages are being conveyed at different times. There were two tunnels inside but now blocked by the earth and one was barricaded by a brick wall due to terror attacks. That soldier had tried to venture into them without success. Apparently this tunnel leads to a nearby church and the home of the commander of that time. The church is still there about 500m away from the fort complex.

It was a pity to see the current status of the fort due to the negligence by the archaeological department and additions by the navy. True they (Navy) did an outstanding job of protecting our coastal line but I think it’s time they moved out of this place and let the visitors enjoy it and take pics without all this hustle and bustle. We didn’t even have this much hassle at the top of Piduruthalagala where they have the most sensitive radar installations.

Out of sheer frustration, I asked when the Navy was planning to move and the soldier said that the archaeological department had inspected the place and will soon take over. Finally some good news but it means another trip to Kalpitiya too. After that we decided to camp around Kalpitiya and do the Mannar tour on the following morning. Having talked to numerous people about an ideal camping slot and came up with two options. 1. Kandakuli, 2. Thalawila. We, after a lot of thinking, decided on the latter. It turned out to be a wise decision and we hurried on hoping to catch the sunset. Passing “Ali Rani Palace” notice put up by the archaeological department made me wanna go there too but Kasun said that there’s hardly anything to look, just a bare unexplored area so abandoned that notion.

First- Ever Camping on the Beach, Thalawila

We reached Thalawila church around 5.40pm, well in time for the sunset and found a grassy patch just off the beach devoid of any thick bushes for camping. Doomed Norochcholai was looming in the distance and for a change working. It was belching a streak of black fumes towards the Indian Ocean signaling that it was doing something worthwhile for the money spent. From what I’ve heard, it’s been out of commission more than 50% of the time it’s been installed here. Some record.

There were wind mills too about 2km away from us. Thalawila is a very popular church among Catholics who come in large numbers during the festival season. However this being a quiet time, not many were there. Rows of houses roused my curiosity and found out they’re available for rent and get full very quickly during the festival. “For 2014 festival, already all the houses are booked”, one of the caretakers told us. We set about putting up the tent which was the biggest I’ve ever slept in. It was a massive 7-man tent but we managed to set it up in a record 20 mins. The sun was setting and we managed to shoot on and off while setting up the tent. The sandy ground made it difficult to hold the tent with 8-inch guy pins. (Those are the ones buried into the ground to hold the tent together, funny name nevertheless).

We had to use a few stones too to keep it in place. In the meantime Kassa and Asitha had gone and sweet talked one of the caretakers and arranged a washroom in one of the houses for us to have a wash. It was a very welcome thing as we badly needed to have a shower and was wondering where to go. After the camp setup we took the gas cooker and started boiling instant noodles packets and heating the pre-cooked canned chicken meat balls. The dark enveloped us quickly but a half moon lit the whole open area beautifully. Moon rays were reflecting on the still ocean surface and it was a night good for a poet.

We gobbled up the hot noodles mixed with steaming chicken meatballs, left over tempered onions and boiled eggs from breakfast. To top things off, there was a loaf of bread too. What a feast! We badly needed this kinda meal coz we were without lunch. After a sumptuous meal, we decided to turn in for the night. The tent was more spacious and we had ample room to sleep. We settled in for the night, listening for the rustle the wind made by disturbing the flaps of our tent. The waves kissed the beach in small waves making very little noise as if not to disturb us. I fell asleep and slept like a log till 5.00am.

 

Moored at sea off Thalawila

Moored at sea off Thalawila

No light house but the statue of St. Anne's on top of that tower

No light house but the statue of St. Anne’s on top of that tower

Hiya

Hiya

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

Ready to set

Ready to set

Getting redder

Getting redder

Almost sunk

Almost sunk

The biggest tent I've slept to date

The biggest tent I’ve slept to date

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

6 packs of noodles to go with it

6 packs of noodles to go with it

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

Day 02

Getting up, after a very good night’s sleep was a blessing and we boiled water and had Nescafe 3 in 1. It revived our bodies and we went back for our borrowed washroom to wash and get ready. By 7am, we were ready to go and bid our farewell to the friendly caretaker and were on our way merrily.

 

Good Morning! everyone

Good Morning! everyone

Busily folding the tent

Busily folding the tent

Here he comes

Here he comes

Look at the halo

Look at the halo

Sweet

Sweet

Still there where it was

Still there where it was

Busy at work in the morning

Busy at work in the morning

Laying the nets

Laying the nets

Another ready to get going

Another ready to get going

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

These are a familiar sight for me

These are a familiar sight for me

Going towards Eluwankulam

Going towards Eluwankulam

Old Mannar Road via Wilpattu, Doric House and Arippu Fort

We left Thalawila and headed towards Kalpitiya turn off. Reaching Puttalam starving wasn’t an easy thing to do. So we stopped to buy some buns and headed back towards Eluwankulama. The road is under construction but done quite a lot since our last visit to Gange Wadiya in Oct 2013. Passing Eluwankulama junction where the turn off for Gange Wadiya we headed further up towards the Navy camp where the Kala Oya borders the southernmost boundary of legendary Wilpattu. There was a barrier across the road with a navy soldier on guard. You don’t need any permission to go on this road but they’re checking the vehicles for any smuggling goods or taking animals too.

I hope they’re doing the same thing for the vehicles coming out of the park too coz the chances are very high for people to smuggle animals or plants out. He explicitly asked us not to photograph around their camp. Ban the photographers is the theme for them. We reached the Sapaththu Palama and Kala Oya was gushing not over but underneath, almost touching the top. It was a super duper place for camping as there’s plenty of fresh water and scores of Kumbuk Trees are providing cool shade throughout. No chance of getting permission I guess.

Video 04 – The Southernmost boundary of Wilpattu, Kala Oya

There was park office near the Kala Oya to enter the Wilpattu but looked isolated. The gravel path is uneven making it very hard for low clearance vehicles to maneuver. There’s very little traffic mainly the people either side (Silavathura and Eluwankulama) of the jungle moving from one area to the other. We saw motorbikes, small Lorries and even passenger buses going in this road. Puttalam-Mannar buses use this road. It must be noted that the bus drivers are very reckless in this road. They travel at high speeds putting both passengers and animals lives in danger.

There was one CTB bus of Mannar Depot (WP NA – 7032) travelling as if this was the Expressway about 60-70kmph. It was crazy driving totally unacceptable. There were a couple of Navy checkpoints inside the jungle taking down the vehicle numbers. I wonder why they don’t do something about these maniac drivers. There were quite a few tanks we passed along the way. Periya Villu, Periya Naga Villu, Malai Villu, Mailanganmotte and Karanchiuttan are a few of them. After a very scenic drive on a slippery gravel road, we reached the northernmost boundary of Wilpattu which is the Modara River (Modara Gan Maruwa). There was a checkpoint at Marichchukkadi the first village after the jungle. There too and those soldiers were fascinated to hear what we were doing and gonna do.

From there the road was in good condition but still under construction at most parts. Passing Mullikulam and Silavathura where the SL Army’s first offensive into the northern terror-held areas was bringing back the memories of valiant sacrifices made by our soldiers. Our first stop was Doric House which just by the road. There’s a tall white pyramid shaped monument close by. 2 Navy officers were on guard duty and talked to us were very friendly.

Doric House is nearly crumpling to the beach below. If I’m not mistaken the entire top floor is fallen off and the majority of the ground floor too is in pieces on the beach below. It was clear that nobody had taken any effort to restore this place other than putting up some sign postings. The walls are crumbling down and our Archeological Department gotta do something real soon to avoid this being fallen completely to the beach. There was color poster showing how it looked in 1804 and in 2012. The difference is heart breaking. Apparently this is where the first British Governor of Ceylon, Fredrick North resided while overseeing the pearls fishery in the North West Coast. The Arippu fort was built to safeguard the collected pearls with a garrison placed.

From Doric House, it was a short drive to the Arippu Fort. Not so difficult to find with well-placed signage. It too was crumbling down and nearby farmer had tied a calf inside showing that authorities don’t get there often enough. It was only the mere Archeological Notice going rusty that tried to fend these trespassers off. The funniest part was the name of the Pradeshiya Sabha in this area. It’s called “Musali Pradeshiya Sabha” and you all know what it means in Sinhala.

 

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

What a nice place for a bath

What a nice place for a bath

Lovely

Lovely

Imagine what it'd be like when the water levels are too high

Imagine what it’d be like when the water levels are too high

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Here's the isolated Entrance office

Here’s the isolated Entrance office

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Reaching to the infinity

Reaching to the infinity

Oh dear, so far to go

Oh dear, so far to go

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

Dilapidated house

Dilapidated house

Only the bare bones

Only the bare bones

Those skinny pillars won't stand long.

Those skinny pillars won’t stand long.

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

What it was like 2 centuries ago

What it was like 2 centuries ago

In 2009 but now it's worse

In 2009 but now it’s worse

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Trying to get down to the beach

Trying to get down to the beach

Very sad looking state

Very sad looking state

Gotta do something very soon

Gotta do something very soon

On the left are the two navy personnel

On the left are the two navy personnel

From the beach below

From the beach below

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Making sand houses

Making sand houses

Don't get many like these in the dry zone

Don’t get many like these in the dry zone

200m to the left from the main road

200m to the left from the main road

The story behind

The story behind

Protected by a fence but no guard

Protected by a fence but no guard

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Nothing has been done to restore it

Nothing has been done to restore it

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

Not much left standing

Not much left standing

Plenty of these white flowers

Plenty of these white flowers

Leaving

Leaving

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Pooh...

Pooh…

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

Mannar Fort and the Biggest Baobab Tree in SL

Then we crossed the famous Malwathu Oya and entered Nananttan Area. From there it was pretty straight forward journey to Mannar through world famous bird sanctuary, Vankalai. However in Nananttan, the roads can be a bit confusing, so don’t forget to ask for directions. The road joins the Mannar-Medawachchiya main road just before the causeway. Along the causeway we saw two white lines in the distance lagoon. We were anyway looking for the gorgeous looking flamingoes and looking through Sheham’s 500mm lens proved they really were flamingoes. Such beautiful looking pinkish birds were my first encounter with them. Wish we had a small raft to get close to them and take a closer look.

Just passing the bridge that connects the causeway to the Mannar Island we saw the Mannar fort to our right. It’s so close and we got the first right hand turn and travelled for about 400m towards it. This fort like Galle and Jaffna are in a better condition. The complex is huge with plenty of buildings bordering the perimeter. One special place inside is the Church inside with gravestones along the floor of it. I think the same thing can be witnessed at the Church inside the Galle Fort which is still functioning.

We walked along the perimeter wall and noticed the man-made moat like thing using the water from lagoon. Pretty smart move huh! After a thorough inspection we went searching for the Baobab tree and got directions from the Army checkpoint. It’s about 600-800m away from the Fort along Pallimunai Road which is the second right from the bridge.

Reaching and looking at this mammoth tree was something wonderful. Its bark is so thick and charcoal grey in color, exactly like an elephant’s. It’s even got parts of the trunk popping out like an elephant’s foot with their big toes. What a gigantic piece of creation by the Mother Nature. Time was in short supply so we hurried up and got back on the road and reach a shop called “Rice Bowl” near the Giant’s Tank maintained by the Army. The food was tasty and very reasonable. We even got the info about one of their Holiday Bungalows called “Kamatha” in the area. I’ve put a pic of their poster on the report.

After a hearty lunch and directions to shorten our journey we reached Settikulam and took a turn towards Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale. Ultimately this joins the Nochchiyagama Junction on Puttalam-A’Pura Road. We stopped for a quick cup of tea at Pelpatha (Remember My Short Report with lots of birds). There is a giant squirrel there called “Nangi” and she’s a darling I can tell you. She’d been injured and treated by the hotel’s staff and now nestles in the Tamarind Tree inside the hotel itself. If you call her “Nangi”, she’ll come running and even let me stroke her fur. Such an adorable darling! She got frightened when Kasun tried to come near her (don’t ask me why) and Asitha managed to give her a cheese cracker. She grabbed and ran up the tree and settled onto eat it dearly.

Video 05 – Nangi having a Cheese Cracker

I could’ve spent the whole evening with her bus others were adamant on leaving. So we left for Colombo but managed to stop for another breathtaking sunset along the Puttalam-Colombo road.

Video 06 – Sunset on Puttalam-Colombo Road

After a heartfelt journey of 700+km and 48 hours of joy and fun we got back home while dropping Asitha at Wennappuwa and for the second time declining an offer for dinner.

50 Trip Reports!!! Who would’ve thought of this when I first sent in my first one in July 2012? Even I can’t believe I’ve written so much during the past 18+ months. Lakdasun has provided a great platform not only for travelers, but for writers too like me to horn their writing skills. I’ve seen so much of this paradise island in the past 18 months but compared to what’s more to do, it’s nothing.

Thank you all my friends who’d been there encouraging me to travel more and write more and more. Hopefully there’ll be more from me.

Will see you in the next episode and this is Sri signing off for now.

Take care

P.S. Numerous attempts by me to find how the Baththalangunduwa name came by went without success. Therefore I came up with my own conclusion in the end.

Baththalangunduwa could mean “Bathalayekuta Dun Gunduwa” which means Cheating a Rotund Fella. Just trying to add my mockery into this. Don’t get it serious folks.

 

The lagoon along the causeway

The lagoon along the causeway

Drinking milk from the mother

Drinking milk from the mother

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The fort is just there

The fort is just there

Signs of the moat

Signs of the moat

The entrance is there

The entrance is there

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

One of the buildings inside

One of the buildings inside

Massive rooms

Massive rooms

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Huge courtyard too

Huge courtyard too

One of the biggest forts in SL

One of the biggest forts in SL

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

But very abruptly ended here

But very abruptly ended here

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Bell tower

Bell tower

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

Old church inside the fort

Old church inside the fort

Signs of moat

Signs of moat

Guard rooms

Guard rooms

Must've been like a small village inside

Must’ve been like a small village inside

Caught her inside

Caught her inside

Here's that church we saw from the top

Here’s that church we saw from the top

Gravestones

Gravestones

Must've been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must’ve been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must be some sort of a symbol

Must be some sort of a symbol

Another grave

Another grave

This was on a side wall

This was on a side wall

Coming out of the fort

Coming out of the fort

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The biggest in SL

The biggest in SL

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

We're here

We’re here

Like a huge elephant

Like a huge elephant

Here's the foot of the elephant

Here’s the foot of the elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

Placid Giants' Tank

Placid Giants’ Tank

Wonder if this is allowed.

Wonder if this is allowed.

Where we had lunch

Where we had lunch

You can check call the number given

You can check call the number given

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won't fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won’t fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Here's my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

Here’s my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

She was very possessive of her biccie

She was very possessive of her biccie

She's a darling

She’s a darling

Close up of her

Close up of her

Sunset is about to happen

Sunset is about to happen

A flock of birds going home

A flock of birds going home

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Wow

Wow

He's gone home and so we are

He’s gone home and so we are

Enjoy the collection of Panos now.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

Pano 16

Pano 16

Pano 17

Pano 17

Short And Sweet visit to Horagolla – Smallest NP in Sri Lanka

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Year and Month March, 2014
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew Two ( Me and my Friend Puspakumara) Age 30-35
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public Transport, Tuk Tuk
Activities Relax walking under the forest Shade
Weather Sunny
Route Battaramulla -> Nittambuwa -> Pinnagolla junction -> Horagolla NP and return via same route
  • Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • If I speak frankly this is not a place for sighting animals expect few captured (injured) animals. But it’s rich of various types of flora .Also recommend for bird watching
  •  All the paths are paved and no difficult ascends. Therefore can recommend for even elderly people and children to spend some relaxing hours
  •  As there is no suitable water source for purpose of drinking better to carry a water bottle
  • There is no parking .You can ask from a nearby house or you can park the vehicle in a friend’s house closer to Nittambuwa
  • From Nittambuwa You can hire a Tuk Tuk to reach the park just for Rs.100/-
  • Officers informed about a bunch of Wild boars who had been loitering in the park recent past and they have charged people few occasions too.(AS THEY SAY) So be mindful
  • Be a silent traveler and PLS. DO NOT Litter
  • Special thanks to Niran for his post
Related Resources

 

Author HARINDA
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After seeing the Niran’s post and referring to some articles in the web I decided to do this visit as it’s just 35 km away from my home. While trying to catch a companion I reminded mighty Tony as he’s working in Gampaha area. But it was unsuccessful as he was very busy with office work. Then I called one of my old campus friends who reside at Warakapola and told him to meet me at Nittambuwa.I left home around 1.00 p.m. and came to Kadawatha and left my bike at friends place and took a bus to Nittambuwa. From Nittambuwa me and my friend hired a tri wheeler to park entrance. We reached the park around 3.00 p.m.

Near the park entrance. You have to walk though this tiny passage for about 100m

Near the park entrance. You have to walk though this tiny passage for about 100m

Horagolla lake

Horagolla lake

First Wildlife sighting

First Wildlife sighting

Entrance

Entrance

We have to cross the bridge before reaching ticketing office

We have to cross the bridge before reaching ticketing office

Ticketing office ( Tickets per head Rs 40+ VAT )

Ticketing office ( Tickets per head Rs 40+ VAT )

Quote From WIKIPEDEA

Horagolla National Park is one of the latest national parks in Sri Lanka. It is so called because of an abundance of Dipterocarpus zeylanicus (Hora) trees.[1] The area was originally declared as a wildlife sanctuary on 5 September 1973 due to its rich biodiversity. Later on 24 June 2004, Horagolla was elevated to national park status. Horagolla is the only urban park in the Western Province of Sri Lanka.[2] The park is situated close to Horagolla Walauwa, the home of the Bandaranaike family.[3] The park is situated some 40 kilometres (25 mi) from Colombo.

In this Park You don’t need to have a Guide. Trails are well paved and directed .Since there are so many by routes and division of paths better to follow the numbered paths from 1-16. These numbers are clearly visible on tree trunks. Approximate time to do the whole trail is 1-2 hours. It can vary if you want to expend more time on bird watching etc. Also there are many resting places to refresh your self

Sight Map

Sight Map

Think Of this

Think Of this

Starting the hike

Starting the hike

Initially we were undecided after seeing so many paths and went to see the observation point which was not according to the order. After realizing that the paths were numbered we followed the paths accordingly.

Thick Forest

Thick Forest

Path to observation hut

Path to observation hut

Some barriers

Some barriers

Observation Hut

Observation Hut

THURU & WEL

THURU & WEL

image029

Walking under forest shade is one of my favourite activities

Walking under forest shade is one of my favourite activities

Obey the instructions

Obey the instructions

Creepers

Creepers

After some while we reached another place where a deer and an eagle captured. This is May be due to injuries.

Injured deer

Injured deer

Nice fellow

Nice fellow

Huge trees and giant creepers called “Bambara WEL “

Huge trees and giant creepers called “Bambara WEL “

So tall

So tall

GOLUBELLA???

GOLUBELLA???

Walk continues. Reminds me  SALGALA

Walk continues. Reminds me SALGALA

HORA GEDIYA………@@@ ………

HORA GEDIYA………@@@ ………

Clue of Snakes

Clue of Snakes

Then We reached an open area

Then We reached an open area

Nice

Nice

Vast diversity of flora

Vast diversity of flora

May be abandoned Paddy field

May be abandoned Paddy field

HUMBASA

HUMBASA

More creepers

More creepers

Sun is about to set

Sun is about to set

Calm ………..

Calm ………..

There were plenty but was able to catch only this fellow

There were plenty but was able to catch only this fellow

Butterfly

Butterfly

Giant trees

Giant trees

We finished the trek around 4.45. We had spent nearly 1.5 hours. After that we went to see some captive animals behind the ticketing office. They have done a good job so far. But someone has to follow whether they release those animals to the wild at the right time. Why I am telling this; most of the animals seemed like tamed. They didn’t show much aggression. May be due to sickness or getting used to these conditions.

cute

cute

Weli Muwa

Weli Muwa

Officers told us not to put the flasher

Officers told us not to put the flasher

Some eagles

Some eagles

He was little aggressive

He was little aggressive

He was playful but his wife was not. And I got the chance to play with a FISHING CAT other than my Home cats…………..

He was playful but his wife was not. And I got the chance to play with a FISHING CAT other than my Home cats…………..

We left the park around 5.30 walked till Nittambuwa and got a bus from there. We reached homes around before 8.00 p.m.

So this is what I captured. I am neither photographer nor a researcher. I just wanted to share the information. Hope our famous professional Photographers visit here and get some stunning images specially some birds. Hope this will be an initiative.

THANK YOU FOR READING.

Memories of Wilpattu

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Year and Month February, 2013 (21st and 22nd )
Number of Days 02 days
Crew 12 (between 01-40 years of age)
Accommodation Leopard den hotelNear Wilpattu junction on Anuradhapura Puttalam road
Transport Van and Safari Jeep
Activities Wildlife, Photography
Weather Excellent - Bright and Sunny through out
Route Gampaha -> Negombo -> Puttalam -> Wilpattu and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • If you carry any plastic or polythene items make sure that you bring them back.
  • Carry enough stock of drinking water and breakfast and lunch if you are doing a full day safari as it takes nearly 12 hours to complete it.
Author Harishchandra
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

As I had never been to this beautiful and largest national park I was dreaming of this trip for a long period. It became a reality when few of my friends who were working with me decided to do this trip with our family members.

We decided to do this trip in two days and planned to stay the first day night in a small hotel near Wilpattu junction and to start the safari following day early morning. So on first day we started our journey from Gampaha at around 2 p.m. and reached Puttalam at about 5 p.m. where we stopped near the lagoon for a break.

Nice sceneries at Puttalam lagoon.

Nice sceneries at Puttalam lagoon.

Famous Wind mills at Puttalam

Famous Wind mills at Puttalam

Norochcholei power plant seen from Puttalam.

Norochcholei power plant seen from Puttalam.

Then we started our journey again along Puttalam-Anuradhapura road and again stopped at Thabbowa tank to see the beautiful sceneries of sun set near Thabbowa.

Beautiful Thabbowa tank

Beautiful Thabbowa tank

.

.

Looks like they are having a class.

Looks like they are having a class.

Our crowd enjoying the sceneries at Thabbowa

Our crowd enjoying the sceneries at Thabbowa

.

.

The beauty of Mother Nature.

The beauty of Mother Nature.

.

.

.

.

Then we again headed towards our accommodation on that night, Leopard den hotel which is situated near Wilpattu junction on Puttalam Anuradhapura road. It was a guest house with good clean rooms with air conditioning and clean attached bathrooms. Their food was really good and rates were also reasonable. They have a very good safari jeep also, which we hired for our safari on following day.

Leopard at leopard den

Leopard at leopard den

.

.

Following day morning they prepared our breakfast and lunch and packed them and most importantly handed them over in time so that we were able to start our safari early in the morning at around 5.30 a.m.

Getting ready for a full day of safari in the early morning

Getting ready for a full day of safari in the early morning

When we travelled to entrance of the Wilpattu national park by the safari jeep the cold wind was unbearable for us and it was like travelling in an open vehicle in N’Eliya. Fortunately my kid was wearing a jersey and all the others had to suffer the cold morning winds.
We entered the park at about six in the morning and got a guide and straight away started the safari.

At the entrance of Wilpattu National Park

At the entrance of Wilpattu National Park

Nice sceneries on the start

Nice sceneries on the start

Like a painted art work

Like a painted art work

.

.

Bathing sun in the early morning

Bathing sun in the early morning

Then we had our breakfast at a place where there was a summer hut and where visitors are allowed to get down from their vehicles.

We had our breakfast here.

We had our breakfast here.

My little hero. He is also a real nature lover

My little hero. He is also a real nature lover

After having a delicious breakfast we started our safari again.

.

.

They were really playful

They were really playful

.

.

Black winged stilt looking for a prey.

Black winged stilt looking for a prey.

Nice reflexion

Nice reflexion

Red-wattled Lapwing

Red-wattled Lapwing

Showing his colours

Showing his colours

Great Stone Plover

Great Stone Plover

The Crested Serpent Eagle

The Crested Serpent Eagle

The Crested Serpent Eagle

The Crested Serpent Eagle

Beauty of Mother Nature

Beauty of Mother Nature

Purple heron

Purple heron

Enjoying a tasty meal alone

Enjoying a tasty meal alone

.

.

.

.

We had a nice cool bath at Modaragamaru near Kokmote wild life bungalow before having a tasty lunch on river bank.

Kokmote wild life bungalow

Kokmote wild life bungalow

Modaragam aru – the northern border of Wilpattu N.P.

Modaragam aru – the northern border of Wilpattu N.P.

Really love the shady banks and the river

Really love the shady banks and the river

It was a real fun time

It was a real fun time

Having a nice cool dip

Having a nice cool dip

This is the nice rocky surface near Modaragamaru where we had our lunch and relaxed a bit before starting exploring in the afternoon.

This is the nice rocky surface near Modaragamaru where we had our lunch and relaxed a bit before starting exploring in the afternoon.

 

.

.

We planned to visit Kudiramalai point also but had to abandon the idea as the area was flooded and not accessible for vehicles. So after the lunch we started safari again hoping to see the big one – the leopard.

A group of Indian Pond Herons

A group of Indian Pond Herons

Flooded villus

Flooded villus

Little green bee eater

Little green bee eater

A group of black winged stilts

A group of black winged stilts

Crested serpent eagle

Crested serpent eagle

Blue tailed bee eater

Blue tailed bee eater

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.

Wild boars

Wild boars

Found him at last lying peacefully on the bank of a tank

Found him at last lying peacefully on the bank of a tank

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.

We were really tired after a twelve hour safari but were really happy as it was a memorable day and we returned back to Gampaha via same route at around 11 o’clock in the night.

Thanks for reading.

Panirendawa ancient Iron ore and few wetlands of chilaw!

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Year and Month March, 2013
Number of Days 2
Crew first day 2 and next day many
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport & bikes
Activities Hiking, Bird watching, trekking
Weather Clear sky
Route
  • D1 Chilaw -> Anawilundawa -> Muthupanthiya ->  Navadankulam -> Chilaw -> Madampe
  • D2 Chilaw -> Punchivilaththawa junction -> Panirendawa -> Returned on the same route -> Chilaw
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Do not disturb bird life
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Need a guide to narrate in Panirendawa
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hmmm! Thought of doing a report after a while and this is one report I couldn’t finish off last year! Im really happy my second home is not in an urbanized area like Colombo and there are plenty of places to hang around whenever I visit there. Chilaw area (Pitigal korale) is known to have 999 lakes which belong to god “Thaniwelle” and few of them are known for their bird life. I will be posting few snaps taken at those locations and if I haven’t mention the name of any bird that’s because I don’t know it or can’t recall the name.

One day both of us visited Anawilundawa a Ramsar wet land which is about 18Km’s from Chilaw towards Puttalam side. The walk along the bunds of Surawila and Anawilundawa lakes were simply awesome and relaxing. All together there are 6 lakes (Maiyawa, Surawila, Anawilundawa, Ihala wewa, Maradansole wewa & Pinkattiya wewa) which belongs to this wet land and the best thing is these are not completely isolated (paddyfields on one side) from civilization. What I usually do is start from Maiyawa junction and emerges at the Surawila lake bund to continue to Anawilundawa bund. Later I appear one junction away from Anawilundawa. This time I took the road which will take one towards the coastal line (from surawila bund) and reached a beautiful beach called Muthupanthiya (the name is given because locals believed that once there were plenty of oysters in that area). But one has to cross the ancient Hamilton canal with the aid of a “Paruwa” first which itself is a fun ride.

Map of Anawilundawa

Map of Anawilundawa – click to enlarge

map of Panirendawa

Map of Panirendawa – click to enlarge

Sun rise

Sun rise

dancing fish

dancing fish

Suruwila lake

Suruwila lake

the horizon

the horizon

a heron

a heron

a spoonbil on the trunk

a spoonbil on the trunk

beautiful isnt it?

beautiful isnt it?

 trees in the lake

trees in the lake

a hedge in the lake

a hedge in the lake

lovely path of surawila lake

lovely path of surawila lake

trying to merge in

trying to merge in

a paradise fly catcher

a paradise fly catcher

an eagle

an eagle

 a jacana

a jacana

"Kirala"

“Kirala”

they are at work

they are at work

too busy i guess

too busy i guess

a bul bul

a bul bul

unknown

unknown

entering Anawilundawa

entering Anawilundawa

anawilundawa lake

anawilundawa lake

what a walk we had

what a walk we had

a lonely tree out of many

a lonely tree out of many

 some shade for the lake

some shade for the lake

mirror effect

mirror effect

yummy

yummy

joker

joker

Glassy Tiger

Glassy Tiger

plenty of them

plenty of them

pond heron

pond heron

 a bee eater

a bee eater

locals ostirtch

locals ostirtch

Lesser whistling ducks

Lesser whistling ducks

an ibis

an ibis

a parrot

a parrot

Reflection

Reflection

Purple coot

Purple coot

nesting

nesting

the canal we had to cross

the canal we had to cross

the mode of transport

the mode of transport

muthupanthiya beach

muthupanthiya beach

cute isnt it?

cute isnt it?

the catch

the catch

After enjoying Muthupanthiya we returned to the main road and went towards 104Km post where there is board directing towards the east saying Navadamkulam. At Navadamkulam there are two lakes one of them been the Navadamkulam tank and the other been Periyakadawala lake. The walk in the shade of few “mara” trees and a tickling breeze made us pause for few minutes before we went around spotting many whistling ducks, since it was already 10am not many birds were to see. Next place we visited was a famous kovil called Udappuwa which is located in the fishing village of Udappuwa where the Battulu oya meets the ocean (usually at this point the moya kata is closed with sand). The heat at Udappuwa was unbearable but if you are a bird lover there are many birds around who roam along the coastal line. We didn’t forget to visit Thaniwelle devalaya at Madampe on our way back because we had to do some offerings. You won’t miss this place because it’s on the side of the A3 highway close to Madampe. From there we took a short cut and reached our home to end a tiring day.

Quote from Wikipedia

The village is known for its elaborate Hindu temples and unique festivals. In the Tamil month of Avani which corresponds to late July to early August, an 18-day festival commences with the flag-hoisting ceremony and ending with fire-walking in front of Udappu’s Draupati Amman Temple. The 18-day period is spent in prayer and fasting, with a priest reciting the Mahabharata epic to remind everyone of the story of Draupadi, the five Pandava brothers’ common wife, whose chaste and virtuous ways enabled her to recover the kingdom they been deprived of by King Duryodhana. The Draupadi festival comes to a conclusion on the final evening when the entire male population of Udappu walk barefoot over a bed of red hot coals without injury in a ceremony called Tee Mithi in Tamil language

Un quote

the bund of navadamkulam

the bund of navadamkulam

 Polos kottoruwa

Polos kottoruwa

munia

munia

huge leaves

huge leaves

contrast

contrast

oh beauty

oh beauty

 Navadamkulam tank

Navadamkulam tank

flowers or leaves

flowers or leaves

note the fish

note the fish

narrowed path

narrowed path

couldnt stop snapping these

couldnt stop snapping these

lovely

lovely

lush green

lush green

 the other lake

the other lake

 framed

framed

 male jacana

male jacana

mode of transport

mode of transport

cotton pygmy goose

cotton pygmy goose

beauty

beauty

a lilly

a lilly

 fly away ducky

fly away ducky

a moth

a moth

yellowish butterfly

yellowish butterfly

bokkeh effect

bokkeh effect

just before turning green

just before turning green

lesser grebe

lesser grebe

many ducks

many ducks

 the board says it all

the board says it all

 

halted

halted

fishing villege

fishing villege

sand blocking the river meeting the ocean

sand blocking the river meeting the ocean

after school female version

after school female version

 after school male version

after school male version

udappu kovil

udappu kovil

side view

side view

gods

gods

inside the kovil

inside the kovil

more gods

more gods

statue

statue

the initial kovil

the initial kovil

living in flood plains

living in flood plains

hard life

hard life

 lovely

lovely

@ thaniwelle devalaya

@ thaniwelle devalaya

wood art

wood art

smoked

smoked

offering

offering

Next day was special one for me and few of our family members also joined us on this venture. Our target was a forest patch called Panirendawa belonging to Madampe and Chilaw divisions which has many foot paths. Actually one needs a guide otherwise they will get lost in this forest patch. First we went to visit the ancient iron ore where 7 wells with water could be found unfortunately only one well had water. This place was the main source of iron to some of the ancient kingdoms in Sri lanka and the iron mixed earth is good evidence at this site. We also overheard that the geological department carried out few studies recently in the area. Next was a family hike in the forest, we had to halt our bikes and go by foot. And the walk was ever so rewarding. I still can remember the “veralu” tree we came across where we enjoyed many fruits for a while. There are lots of valuable trees in this reserve and for mammals Deer’s, Samber and the occasional elephant that pays a visit are the known ones. After spending half a day in the Panirendawa east forest reserve we returned back home to end our mini tour.

a name board

a name board

Entering Panirendawa forest from hen yaya

Entering Panirendawa forest from hen yaya

remains of melted iron

remains of melted iron

a natural well out of 7

a natural well out of 7

 the one which had water

the one which had water

 iron

iron

note the superficial iron stores

note the superficial iron stores

entering the forest

entering the forest

dry zone forest at Chilaw

dry zone forest at Chilaw

stay away

stay away

mushrooms on a bark

mushrooms on a bark

tall trees

tall trees

wrapped together

wrapped together

the only and huge Thekka tree

the only and huge Thekka tree

veralu fresh from the tree

veralu fresh from the tree

the photographer

the photographer

 lovely purple

lovely purple

Thanks for reading!

Kumana – Camping at Gal Amuna : Picture Report

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Year and Month March, 2014
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 8 (Me, Ashan, Lahiru, Prasanna, Chamil, Chinthaka, Thilina, Gimhan)
Accommodation Maha Gal Amuna Campsite
Transport Mitsubishi 4DR5 Jeep & KIA Sportage
Activities Photography, Wildlife, Visit archaeological sites
Weather Dry, sunny & extremely hot
Route Colombo -> Pelmadulla -> Udawalawa -> Thanamalwila -> Wellawaya -> Monaragala -> Pothuwil -> Panama -> Kumana
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take as much as possible drinking water. It is as hot as it can be
  • You can use river water, boil and drink if you are not sure
  • The campsite is on the riverbank. You can pitch your tents on the sandy areas of the river if the water level is low. But Make sure to check the weather of the catchment areas of Kumbukkan Oya. If it rains to the upper parts, the water level may increase.
  • Make sure you clean the campsite properly before you leave. Do not leave any litter.
  • Maha Gal Amuna campsite is on the far corner of Kumana. You will have to travel a little more to see the wildlife/birds. So timing is very crucial.
Author KasunDes
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Kumana was on the list for too long. So we thought of giving it a shot this time. Though the dry season is not at its peak yet, Kumana was extremely hot when we visited. The sightings were not the greatest, but we had enough sightings and more importantly had a great time especially at the awesome Gal Amuna Campsite.

Since there are some good trip reports on Kumana to be found on the forum, I thought of just adding short picture report.

Enjoy..!

Misty Lahugala lake in the morning

Misty Lahugala lake in the morning

 Good morning fellas

Good morning fellas

How to pass this place without clicking around...

How to pass this place without clicking around…

OK, we were going to see birds in Kumana

OK, we were going to see birds in Kumana

Lahiru leading the convoy on one of the most beautiful road stretches in SL

Lahiru leading the convoy on one of the most beautiful road stretches in SL

just as we turned off from Panama village

just as we turned off from Panama village

The rear view

The rear view

How beautiful I am...

How beautiful I am…

two in one

two in one

the second one

the second one

Hey little one, how are you...

Hey little one, how are you…

Finally we're here

Finally we’re here

Some of the many we saw

Some of the many we saw

Could not get the third rock into the frame

Could not get the third rock into the frame

Caught red handed

Caught red handed

landscape

landscape

Ancient steps at Bowaththegala

Ancient steps at Bowaththegala

One of the many inscriptions found there

One of the many inscriptions found there

The rock pond

The rock pond

A cave

A cave

Remains

Remains

Interesting signs from an inscription

Interesting signs from an inscription

Inscription under the drip ledge

Inscription under the drip ledge

The view

The view

Veddah paintings

Veddah paintings

Towards the camp site

Towards the camp site

Track was dry, not too tough but not too easy as well..

Track was dry, not too tough but not too easy as well..

Never underestimate from the looks of it. the tough little guy managed all without a hint of a strugle...

Never underestimate from the looks of it. the tough little guy managed all without a hint of a strugle…

The Oasis...

The Oasis…

Crystal clear waters of Kumbukkan Oya

Crystal clear waters of Kumbukkan Oya

Remains of teh ancient Gal Amuna. Had an awesome bath there

Remains of teh ancient Gal Amuna. Had an awesome bath there

 What a lovely place it was...

What a lovely place it was…

The evening session started

The evening session started

Mr. Lonely

Mr. Lonely

Bird infested...

Bird infested…

Ones who deliver the babies (in cartoons)

Ones who deliver the babies (in cartoons)

Looking for a prey

Looking for a prey

The Kumana Villu

The Kumana Villu

The guy was busy cleaning the feathers

The guy was busy cleaning the feathers

Gathering...

Gathering…

Kumana Lake at sunset

Kumana Lake at sunset

 It set a lovely orangish tone to the whole atmosphere

It set a lovely orangish tone to the whole atmosphere

The perfect resting place after an almost 24 hour run...

The perfect resting place after an almost 24 hour run…

Lovely way to end the day

Lovely way to end the day

Oh no, the day is not end yet... found on the way back to the camp site

Oh no, the day is not end yet… found on the way back to the camp site

The campfire

The campfire

Good morning...

Good morning…

Over the broken amuna

Over the broken amuna

Lovely, just lovely...

Lovely, just lovely…

Time to say good bye to pur lovely campsite

Time to say good bye to pur lovely campsite

they were everywhere

they were everywhere

Hunting

Hunting

Oh I cannot even have a sunbath peacefully with these guys...

Oh I cannot even have a sunbath peacefully with these guys…

cannot recall the name ...

cannot recall the name …

Watchfull..

Watchfull..

hungry fellas

hungry fellas

He was alone

He was alone

Portrait

Portrait

Off he goes

Off he goes

Disturbed...

Disturbed…

Another lone guy

Another lone guy

Landing...

Landing…

Plenty

Plenty

Yeppeee, found a prey...

Yeppeee, found a prey…

Just go away, please...

Just go away, please…

Traffic police...

Traffic police…

Crossing the road

Crossing the road

Found a shade to hide from the scortching sun

Found a shade to hide from the scortching sun

 

He didn't like being seen by us

He didn’t like being seen by us

Finally

Finally

Open lands in Panama village

Open lands in Panama village

Here’s a short videos of our tour as well.

Solo travel to Kottawa and Kanneliya forest reserves

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Year and Month April, 2014 (15th, 16th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew One
Accommodation Cook’s room of a guest house :-)
Transport Bus, Tuk Tuk
Activities Trekking, Hiking, Photography
Weather Sunny
Route Maharagama -> Galle -> Hiyare -> Kottawa -> Kanneliya -> Udugama -> Yatalamatta -> Galle -> Maharagama
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Carry leach repellents (eg. Salt).
  • A guide is not needed for the Kottawa trail.
  • Tickets should be bought to enter both reserves.
    • Kottawa Rs.600/=
    • Kanneliya Rs.28/= (for the ticket)
    • 400/= or 800/= (guide fee options for main / Kabbale trail)
  • Trekking /hiking through Kanneliya is not allowed without a guide. Vishan (0774614930) and Nilantha (0718192079) are two of the best.
  • If you are planning stay at Kanneliya, it is advisable to book from forest department office at Baththaramulla. Few private lodges are also available, which are ideally should be booked in advance to ensure you have a place to spend the night.
  • Wear cargo pants and trekking shoes to protect from possible snake attacks.
  • Go early as you can to see the beauty of nature.
Related Resources  Trail Guide: Kabbale Mountain and Anagimale Falls Circular Trail – Kanneliya Rain Forest
Author Dhamz
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The initial plan was to travel somewhere around Mathale and Reversten, with a bunch of officemates. But everyone seemed to be busy, visiting relatives for the new year. Knowing that it would be a crime to spend the holidays at home, I decided to visit Hiyare, Kottawa, and Kanneliya. This is my 1st ever solo travel experience :-)

On 15th morning, I left home and arrived Maharagama around 7am. Took the bus via expressway and arrived at 8.30am in Galle. From there, I got into Galle-Udugama (#377) bus which left around 9.20am. It took roughly 40mins to arrive at Hiyare junction. Alternatively, you can take Colombo-Udugama (#393/1 ?) bus from Pettah.

From Hiyare junction, you have to take the road towards right. Landmarks at the junction are a set of shops and, “Nigrodaramaya” temple. Estimated distance from the junction to Hiyare forest reserve is 4KMs. The sun was up and with the amount of trekking to be done in two days, I was hesitant to take a walk to the gate. The tuk tuk guy quoted Rs.150/= and without having 2nd thoughts, I got in. Once you go along the way, there’s a bridge. As soon as you pass, take the dirt road on the left side. You will arrive at the gate in about 100Ms.

Bad news! The gate is locked! The security guy told that the forest reserve is closed. Hiyare was a must-do-trail as I was longing to photograph snakes. With a bit of disappointment, I got into tuk tuk and headed towards Kottawa (If you are traveling via bus/car, continue through Udugama road. After passing 13KM post, you will see the Kottawa information center -you are supposed to buy tickets from here. Further along the road before the 14 km post, is the entrance on the left side with a large yellow sign board “Kottawa Arboretum Wet Evergreen Forest Kottawa Khombala”. You can enter the forest from here)

Kottawa information center is also closed!! Since the entrance to the forest is located separately, I took a chance and went further. My luck is working! The gate is not locked. So I got down from the tuk tuk and entered the forest (the driver asked for 650/= which seemed to be too much).

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Otocryptis wiegmanni Wagler, 1830; Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard (E); Pinum Katussa (S) Endemic

Otocryptis wiegmanni Wagler, 1830; Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard (E); Pinum Katussa (S) Endemic

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Inside the Kottawa forest, there’s a main trail and few by-trails. You can easily navigate alone but do remember the landmarks especially if you opt to deviate from the main trail. I was trekking through one of the by-trails and then navigating along a small waterway, and with the excitement from seeing endemic fish, I forgot to take a note on the trail. Took awhile to figure out how to get back on track :-)

After spending about 2 hours in the forest, took a Galle-Dellawa (#358) bus and headed towards Kanneliya.

Kanneliiya

There’s a huge board of one of the lodges (Kanneliya Forest Resort?) at the base of the road. You have to take the road on the right, which goes up to the mountain. Busses won’t travel in this route. Estimated distance is 700M-1KM from the base to Kanneliya gate. At 500M, you will find Kanneliya Forest Resort on the right side, and few more resorts on both sides when you travel further.

It was around 3-4PM when I arrived at Kanneliya. My initial plan was to spend the night at a temple, and explore the forest on the following day (16th). Apparently, there are no temples around Kanneliya. Options I had were, either to travel back to Udugama, or move further towards Dellawa. (All the resorts at Kanneliya were closed due to new year holidays). Since traveling back would take a considerable amount of time, I was tapping into houses and asked them whether there is any place that I could spend the night. One lady said she would have taken me in, if not for the visits she had planned to see the relatives :-( Another old couple told me to travel straight and get inside the gate (ie Kanneliya forest).

So I got inside and asked from guides about accommodation. Bad news! All the places are booked. I kept on emphasizing that it is just for me, and I only need space to sleep. Suddenly, one guide said that they were informed from a nearby house that a solo traveler is looking for a place, and asked whether it is me. I nodded. Then he said that there’s a possibility, but doubt whether I would like it. Now luck is turning my way. I agreed to check out the place, and we went to a guest house which is just outside the gate. The place was occupied, but the cook offered me his room to spend the night, which was a gem at that point! (the room is an elevated cottage-like, which they will offer soon to solo travelers and couples, thanks to me :-)

I started the trek, via Kabbale trail at 7am with Nilantha (who opted to guide me. Apparently, he’s the 2nd in command of the guides). We’ve also covered about 2KMs of the main trail at the end. Sharp at 2.15PM, we finished the journey. Below are some pics.

.Rana temporalis (Günther, 1864) Endemic

Rana temporalis (Günther, 1864) Endemic

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Eutropis floweri Taylor, 1950; Taylor's skink (E); Taylorge hikanala (S) Endemic

Eutropis floweri Taylor, 1950; Taylor’s skink (E); Taylorge hikanala (S) Endemic

Dendrelaphis caudolineolatus, Gunther's Bronze-Back. Endemic

Dendrelaphis caudolineolatus, Gunther’s Bronze-Back. Endemic

Anagimale falls

Anagimale falls

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Iru Raja (Zeuxine regia) -An endemic and endangered ground orchid that grows in lowland wet zone and sub montane zone forests of Sri Lanka. Most of the time it grows on leaf litter. It is used in traditional medicine for treating snake bites.

Iru Raja (Zeuxine regia) -An endemic and endangered ground orchid that grows in lowland wet zone and sub montane zone forests of Sri Lanka. Most of the time it grows on leaf litter. It is used in traditional medicine for treating snake bites.

A ground orchid species

A ground orchid species

Ceratophora aspera Günther, 1864; Rough-horn Lizard (E); Ralu-ang Katussa (S) Endemic

Ceratophora aspera Günther, 1864; Rough-horn Lizard (E); Ralu-ang Katussa (S) Endemic

Otocryptis nigristigma Bahir & Silva, 2005; Lowland Kangaroo Lizard (E); Pahatharata Pinum Katussa (S) Endemic

Otocryptis nigristigma Bahir & Silva, 2005; Lowland Kangaroo Lizard (E); Pahatharata Pinum Katussa (S) Endemic

After the journey, I quickly had a dip in Gin ganga and headed towards Kanneliya junction to catch a Udugama bus. From Udugama, there were no buses to Galle (probably because it’s the late evening. Est around 5PM). So I took a bus (can’t remember the destination) and got down from Yatalamatta. There are buses passing Yatalamatta frequently to Galle. Got to one of them and headed back home :-)

 


ONE NIGHT AT CHUNDIKULAM NATURE PARK

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Year and Month February, 2014
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 5 adults
Accommodation Chundikulam Holiday Resort
Transport Double Cab
Activities Enjoying wilderness, landscapes and taking photographs
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama -> Colombo -> Anuradhapura -> Vavuniya -> Puliyankulam -> Mullattivu -> Paranthan ->Elephant Pass -> Chundikulam
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Sea bathing is not possible
Author Christy
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After going through all corners of Jaffna it was my dream to visit and stay a night at Chundikulam Nature Park managed by Sri Lanka Army.

I was able to realize that dream at later part of last year.

My son and three other friends joined me for the trip.

I reserved the main Cottage of the Resort (940213216254) which consists of a living area, two bed rooms with attached bath and roofed open area to have fun. It is a bargain for Rs.5000 we paid.

We started at night, went through A 9 till Puliyankulam, turned right and reached Mullaittivu by early morning. We rushed through war affected area as one of my friends, an Austrian lady, wanted to see how fast the normalization process is taking place.

We came back to A 9 at Paranthan, collected our lunch packets from an Army friend and proceeded towards our destination, CHUNDIKULAM NATURE PARK HOLIDAY RESORT.

DIRECTIONS

Just after passing Elephant Pass (270Km +), we reached Iyakkachchi Junction and turned to right. After a bit rough ride of about 7 kilometers, we reached Kaddaikadu Junction on the road leading to Point Pedro (not yet fully cleared). At this point, we turned right and proceeded another 8 kilometers to reach our destination. The total distance from A 9 was 15 Kilometers and there are road signs and human guides in the form of our army boys to give willing directions.

NOTE – Now there are three wheeler operators at A 9 Junction who provide transportation to the resort at a bit high rate. They provide the transport for return trip too. Our Army boys support for negotiations, in case of need.

On arrival, we received a warm welcome.

The entire staff went an extra mile to make our stay with them, an impressively pleasing one.

The Resort which is located between lagoon and sea was formally used to nature-cure the disturbed army personnel. It has a roomy restaurant, main cottage, a Tree House (One bedroom) and 4 or 5 rooms with three single beds of each.

They provide meals as per our requirement. Food in tasty and cost is bearable.

Following photos will tell the beauty of the place better than thousand words.

LANDSCAPE

LANDSCAPE

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ROAD TOWARDS

ROAD TOWARDS

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DIRECTIOINS

DIRECTIOINS

ENTRANCE

ENTRANCE

RESTAURANT SEEN FROM LAGOON HUT

RESTAURANT SEEN FROM LAGOON HUT

MAIN COTTAGE SEEN FROM LAGOON HUT

MAIN COTTAGE SEEN FROM LAGOON HUT

MAIN COTTAGE

MAIN COTTAGE

JUST NEAR THE LAGOON – NOT ALWAYS DRY

JUST NEAR THE LAGOON – NOT ALWAYS DRY

RELAXING

RELAXING

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LAGOON BIRDS

LONELY BEACH

LONELY BEACH

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NOT SO LONELY

NOT SO LONELY

TREE HOUSE

TREE HOUSE

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TREEHOUSE BED ROOM

TREEHOUSE BED ROOM

It was another long lasting experience of tranquility by sheer beauty of nature. When the lagoon is fully filled with more birds, it must be a real paradise.

 

Life …… in the not so fast lane

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Year and Month June, 2014
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 3 (Family)
Accommodation Lake View Chalets – SLAF, Sella Kataragama. This is available only to Officers of SLAF
Transport Car
Activities Pilgrimage, Photography, Chilax
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwela -> Kottawa -> Along E1 to Matara -> Weerawila -> Sella Kataragama
Author Chandanie
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Taking time off to relax saw us heading deep down south a few weeks ago. Our destination was Sella Kataragama where SLAF has chalets for its officers. Travelling was easy as we took E1 to Matara. The drive was a breeze! A short stop at Devundara was all what we needed.

A little boy was busy trying to get his kite to fly near the Devundara lighthouse, early in the morning

A little boy was busy trying to get his kite to fly near the Devundara lighthouse, early in the morning

Our destination was the SLAF Lake View Chalets. Bordering the Akkara Vissa tank, they are ideal for a quiet holiday.

The chalets – nicely surrounded by trees

The chalets – nicely surrounded by trees

A closer look

A closer look

And the view from the chalets……..

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The road by the chalets lead to Kiri Vehera, a place where one can find peace any time of the day. Yet, the best for me is the night time………..

Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

A day at the Chalets

The day begins with a spectacular sunrise over the lake. My usual insomnia is a god send at times like these  and I am the only human to witness it……………

The magical blue hour with a tinge of pink………..

The magical blue hour with a tinge of pink………..

…. and slowly the lake waters turn in to a muted pink

…. and slowly the lake waters turn in to a muted pink

පෙර'ඹර රිවි දෙව්රද එන පාරයි.......

පෙර’ඹර රිවි දෙව්රද එන පාරයි…….

The kingfisher comes first to his usual perch………….

The kingfisher comes first to his usual perch………….

…… and the pea-hen does a brisk walk, looking around of a way to break the fast

…… and the pea-hen does a brisk walk, looking around of a way to break the fast

The sun makes its appearance…..

.

.

.

.

….. and the day begins

Good morning Sella and its people

Good morning Sella and its people :-)

It is time for the other two to join me for an exploration of the area and we took a walk along the tank bund.

Mr and Mrs Iora getting ready for the day

Mr and Mrs Iora getting ready for the day

Lush green paddy fields by the side of the road. Typical ancient village style where the fields are found in close proximity to the tank

Lush green paddy fields by the side of the road. Typical ancient village style where the fields are found in close proximity to the tank

The waiting earth

The waiting earth

A farmer who had come early

A farmer who had come early

Watchful waiting……….

Watchful waiting……….

And as it was a week day, children were going to school and the adults to work

Off to School….

Off to School….

Off to School….

Off to School….

The lady who brought our breakfast

The lady who brought our breakfast :-)

The Road Runner Show

The Road Runner Show

And then it is all one big blur!!!

And then it is all one big blur!!!

Well “life is motion” anyway and this camera shake is “moving with the tide” ;)

The days at Sella are usually hot and not for the outdoors. A good time though for a visit to Gana devi kovila (aka Gange Devale) and well in time for the thevava too.

Thevava – Rituals that have remained unchanged over centuries

Thevava – Rituals that have remained unchanged over centuries

Thevava – Rituals that have remained unchanged over centuries

Thevava – Rituals that have remained unchanged over centuries

Beliefs…..

Beliefs…..

Faith…….

Faith…….

The evening at the lake sees a return of life……..

The kingfisher has returned to his usual perch

The kingfisher has returned to his usual perch

“Where are you?”

“Where are you?”

“Where are you?”

“Where are you?”

Ah! Here you are

“Ah! Here you are :)

A motionless purple heron

A motionless purple heron

A stilt with an itch!

A stilt with an itch!

A graceful take off…..

A graceful take off…..

…… and a clumsy lan

…… and a clumsy lan

In life there is always choices as these pipits found!

You could sing for your supper

You could sing for your supper

….. or have a moment of quiet contemplation!

….. or have a moment of quiet contemplation!

In perfect harmony

In perfect harmony

A white browed fan tail

A white browed fan tail

Those who came for a drink

.Those who came for a drink

Strength of show

Strength of show

 Towards late evening

Towards late evening

Yala

A trip deep down south is not complete without a visit to Yala and we did one game safari one afternoon. For the first time we went through the Katagamuwa entrance and what a change from the Palatupana entrance! No ques for tickets or to the gates.

Yala – Katagamuwa

Yala – Katagamuwa

House sparrow at the entrance

House sparrow at the entrance

 

Yala was dry :-(

Yala was dry :-(

And this was all for Darshana Veva

And this was all for Darshana Veva

It was a bird show all the way and only deers, a mongoose and a lone elephant for mammals. No sign of leopards. But many evidence of bears – paw marks, broken palu brances – sans actual bears :-(

Feeding painted storks

Feeding painted storks

Show off!

Show off!

A bathing spoon bill

A bathing spoon bill

A drying open bill

A drying open bill

Take as many photos as you want!

Take as many photos as you want!

And one for the ID!

And one for the ID!

A hiding hare

A hiding hare

“To go on or not, that is the question!”

“To go on or not, that is the question!”

“Yeah, we have been relocated!”

“Yeah, we have been relocated!”

A male Pompadour green pigeon

A male Pompadour green pigeon

“You scratch my ears!”

“You scratch my ears!”

A changeable hawk eagle

A changeable hawk eagle

Up close and personal

Up close and personal

Ok. I am off!

Ok. I am off!

And on the home run…….

Right of way…….

Right of way…….

A park with a view – where else but in Yala?

A park with a view – where else but in Yala?

And that was it for the day, or so we thought. The time was 6.15 pm and we were late. And almost near the exit at Katagamuwa was……

      …. this sloth bear – our first in the wild!

…. this sloth bear – our first in the wild!

Needless to say we went wild with joy! And trigger happy too, despite the low light!

He was patient, gave me some shots and then crossed the road……….

Best paw forwards……..

Best paw forwards……..

… taking his own cool time…

… taking his own cool time…

….. slowly ambling in that lovely gait

….. slowly ambling in that lovely gait ..

 ….. in to the wilds

….. in to the wilds

Yala – just like my Canon – delights me always :-)

 

When in Love

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Year and Month June, 2014
Number of Days Ten
Crew Two of us
Accommodation
Transport Car & other methods
Activities Everything
Weather mixed weather
Route
  • First part: Maharagama -> E1 -> Matara -> Tangalle -> Kahandamodara -> Hambanthota -> Mattala -> Wellawaya -> Buttala -> Maligawila -> Monaragala -> Bibile -> Mahiyangana -> Dehiattakandiya -> Manampitiya -> Girithale -> Minneriya -> Sigiriya -> Dambulla-> Kurunegala -> Chilaw
  • Second part: Chilaw -> Colombo -> Kalupahana -> Haputhale -> Boralanda -> Ohiya -> HP -> Pattipola -> Nuwara eliya -> Kandy -> Kurunegala -> Chilaw -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Do not disturb wild life

***Special thanks to*** NG & Yohan

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The route map

The route map – Green first part, Purple second part

This was a once in a life time trip and I wanted it to be a spectacular one. When one is in a romantic mood its always best to stay close to mother nature and far away from the busy world. This is what we did in our little paradise nation within 10 days. So let the pictures say our story. Our first and second day of relaxation was at Back of beyond Kahandamodara. This was absolutely the paradise we searched for. Two days of perfect harmony with many activities to pass ones time like boat rides in lagoons, cycling and etc. Thanks Yohan for building such a lovely place. The staff was simply the best; you don’t get good guys like them at 5 start hotels.

our paradise at Kahandamodara

our paradise at Kahandamodara

Beautifuly blended with nature

Beautifuly blended with nature

The new Sandy at Kahandamodara

The new Sandy at Kahandamodara

we took a cycle tour to the beach on the evening after arrival and it was rewarding

we took a cycle tour to the beach on the evening after arrival and it was rewarding

day 2 we took a boat ride in Kalamatiya lagoon which was full

day 2 we took a boat ride in Kalamatiya lagoon which was full

these guys charge Rs 2500 for a full tour

these guys charge Rs 2500 for a full tour

lovely

lovely

 the largest king fisher in SL

the largest king fisher in SL

few Indian darters

few Indian darters

plenty of LW ducks

plenty of LW ducks

great hide out for birds

great hide out for birds

next we visited Wehera 9 dhageba

next we visited Wehera 9 dhageba

BOB Kalametiya was round the corner so paid a visit there too

BOB Kalametiya was round the corner so paid a visit there too

View from BOB Kalametiya

View from BOB Kalametiya

the lovely beach

the lovely beach

ha ha we rode bicycles and also trishaws

ha ha we rode bicycles and also trishaws

that evening we took another boat ride in Kahandamodara lagoon

that evening we took another boat ride in Kahandamodara lagoon

Keran koku which we had as lunch

Keran koku which we had as lunch

this is fed by urubokka oya

this is fed by urubokka oya

lagoon flora

lagoon flora

endless scenery

endless scenery

 looking back towards gongala

looking back towards gongala

where salt water meets fresh water

where salt water meets fresh water

 back to routine

back to routine

here it goes

here it goes

the huge grass land near BOB Kahandamodara adjoining the lagoon, this is a nice place to explore

the huge grass land near BOB Kahandamodara adjoining the lagoon, this is a nice place to explore

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

yummy

yummy

a BBQ night

a BBQ night

these two were wonderful chaps

these two were wonderful chaps

After a two night stay we left towards Hambanthota and after going in circles we reached the newly opened dry zone botanical garden at Mirijjawela. Since the walk was a 5Km one we decided to hire a golf cart for 500/=(per hr) and wonder around. This ride was an interesting one and our knowledgeable driver did his best to explain us about all the different kind of plants. For me the best section was the plant house with hundreds of cactus plants. From here we took the road through Mattala to Thanamalwila.

Newly opened dry zone botanical garden

Newly opened dry zone botanical garden

the herbal section

the herbal section

inside these there are many orchids

inside these there are many orchids

they come in white

they come in white

and purple

and purple

dried out artifical lake

dried out artificial lake

 imitating Peradeniya walking path

imitating Peradeniya walking path

these were blooming everywhere

these were blooming everywhere

a lake with water

a lake with water

the driver took the pic

the driver took the pic

landscaped

landscaped

oh my god

oh my god

so many varieties

so many varieties

Our next stop was Buduruwagala and from there we went towards Maligawila. After hanging around Maligawila we had a nice orange juice and took an unplanned visit to ancient Galtemmandiya temple. To reach Galtemmandiya one needs to go along Okkampitiya road and just before Maligawila there is a board put up by Uva tourist board on the left hand side. That day we ended our tour at my luxurious resting place at Monaragala.

main statue at Buduruwagala

main statue at Buduruwagala

some paint and plaster still remains

some paint and plaster still remains

appreciating ancient sculpture

appreciating ancient sculpture

path towards Maligawila

path towards Maligawila

the large Dhambegoda bodhisatva statue

the large Dhambegoda bodhisatva statue

a guard stone

a guard stone

tallest ancient buddha statue in SL

tallest ancient buddha statue in SL

 he has learned how to open a tap

he has learned how to open a tap

Flower alter

Flower alter

all these sculptures were done by lime stone

all these sculptures were done by crystallized lime stone

a serpant eagle

a serpent eagle

Galtemmandiya ancient temple

Galtemmandiya ancient temple

a korawak stone

a korawak stone

siripatula

siripatula

Paddyfilds of Okkampitiya

Paddyfilds of Okkampitiya

On day 4 we left Monaragala early in the morning and reached Dehigaha Ela at around 12pm. This again like Kahandamodara was another paradise and we were going to stay there for two awesome nights. After having a quick tour around we hired a safari jeep to take us to Minneriya park where we were greeted by hundreds of elephants who were grazing around. We were also lucky enough to note Enigma the tusker in action.

our destination

our destination

Sepalika cottage at dehigaha ela

Sepalika cottage at dehigaha ela

In the wilderness

In the wilderness

off we go in search of elephants

off we go in search of elephants

this one scared us

this one scared us

dried out reservoir

dried out reservoir

they were busy

they were busy

majestic Enigma

majestic Enigma

playful

playful

running to mama

running to mama

milk time

milk time

minneri tank

minneri tank

few open bills

few open bills

three musketeres

three musketeers

flying pelican

flying pelican

we got some help

we got some help

view from Pahala thilkote lake while returning back

view from Pahala thilkote lake while returning back

a mugger we noticed at Sigiriya Diya agala

a mugger we noticed at Sigiriya Diya agala

On day 5 we left towards Pidurangala and climbed on top of the windy rock. Most of the time we were crawling around to prevent been blown away. After returning back from Pidurangala we had a nice bath at Dehigaha ela and did some archeology and bat cave exploration that evening. Day 6 we returned back to Chilaw and day 7 was the rest day.

Good morning at Dehigaha ela

Good morning at Dehigaha ela

the pink lotus

the pink lotus

many species were hunting for honey

many species were hunting for honey

husband on duty

husband on duty

a common Lora

a common Lora

what beautiful tree house

what beautiful tree house

Steps at Pidurangala

Steps at Pidurangala

 Pagoda at Pidurangala

Pagoda at Pidurangala

a kutiya

a kutiya

buddha statue just before the summit

buddha statue just before the summit

Summit of pidurangala with two pagodas

Summit of pidurangala with two pagodas

what a scenery

what a scenery

towards Ritigala

towards Ritigala

endless view

endless view

Minneriya rservoir

Minneriya reservoir

the minneriya national park

the minneriya national park

 the colours were superb

the colours were superb

framed rock

framed rock

many travelers climbing the rock

many travelers climbing the rock

it was windy

it was windy

towards arangala and menikdena

towards arangala and menikdena

I love this one

I love this one

Pano towards Ritigala

Pano towards Ritigala

Pano towards Sigiriya

Pano towards Sigiriya

another frame

another frame

We stayed at the family cottage on the next day

We stayed at the family cottage on the next day

spacious place

spacious place

Kiri oya

Kiri oya

Dehigaha ela meeting kiri oya

Dehigaha ela meeting kiri oya

endemic

endemic

 I call this fellow the dry zone crow because they are so common

I call this fellow the dry zone crow because they are so common

view from the top of bat cave

view from the top of bat cave

on the way to the bat cave

on the way to the bat cave

the bat cave where once monks meditated

the bat cave where once monks meditated

he was busy

he was busy

found some time to spend at the natural fish spa

found some time to spend at the natural fish spa

Gal Pandiyas loving my feet

Gal Pandiyas loving my feet

On day 8 both of us wanted to do some trekking so we took a bus to Kalupahana. But it was a day with continuous rain and we were kept indoors at Bambarakanda rest for most of the day. Finally we got a window of 2hours without showers so we walked along the Ohiya road and descended to the top of the full flowing Bambarakanda falls. From there we visited Lanka ella and returned back to the cottage in pouring rain

a gloomy day at kalupahana

a gloomy day at kalupahana

wow full flow during the dry season lucky us

wow full flow during the dry season lucky us

on the way scenery along ohiya road

on the way scenery along ohiya road

playful doggy

playful doggy

 Idalgasinna covered in mist

Idalgasinna covered in mist

scenery just before V cut

scenery just before V cut

view from the pines plot

view from the pines plot

plunging down

plunging down

Top of Bambarakanda fall

Top of Bambarakanda fall

side view

side view

on the way to lanka ella

on the way to lanka ella

lower lanka ella cascade

lower lanka ella cascade

lanka ella

lanka ella

Bambarakanda while raining

Bambarakanda while raining

splendid view from bambarakanda rest

splendid view from bambarakanda rest

Next day morning the sun shined brightly and we asked Mrs Mayakaduwa to arrange a guide to take us to Uduwara and Nagadowa falls. Thanks to the previous days shower the cascades were decent in water levels. After returning to Bambarakanda rest Mrs. Mayakaduwa arranged us some lunch and a trishaw to Horton plains via Haputhale.

next day scenery from Lampuwatta while trekking to nagadowa falls

next day scenery from Lampuwatta while trekking to nagadowa falls

towards lower ohiya

towards lower ohiya

both falls together

both falls together

met it by chance

met it by chance

Uduwara falls

Uduwara falls

Nagadow falls blessed with the previous day showers

Nagadow falls blessed with the previous day showers

 lower part of nagadowa

lower part of nagadowa

wow

wow

 view from haputhale while traveling on trishaw

view from haputhale while traveling on trishaw

cascade found close to boralanda

cascade found close to boralanda

We reached Horton plains at around 2pm and we completed the circular trail in 2 ½ hours. We were blessed with the weather and the windy nature kept the worlds end clear. From Horton plains we went towards Nuwara eliya and on the 10th day we returned back home to end our memorable trip. Within few days with plenty of time to relax we did manage to visit different types of geographical locations like beeches, national parks, waterfalls, mountains etc. This was a perfect trip for us and was just the type of outing both of us expected.

we reached the plains

we reached the plains

the friendly guy

the friendly guy

one of those shots

one of those shots

ashoka

ashoka

chimmney pool

chimmney pool

and it flows

and it flows

it was bit lonely

it was bit lonely

leg of mutton pool

leg of mutton pool

Slab rock falls

Slab rock falls

 Bakers in full flow

Bakers in full flow

close up

close up

plenty of these

plenty of these

 Young belihul oya

Young belihul oya

love the colours

love the colours

the famous drop

the famous drop

 non perial estate

non perial estate

the not so fascinating view

the not so fascinating view

Samanala wewa and the mountain with mana is Adara kanda

Samanala wewa and the mountain with mana is Adara kanda

Gommolli and balathoduwa peaks

Gommolli and balathoduwa peaks

a darker version

a darker version

not my beard

not my beard

 I always love the view from Mini worlds end rather than the greater one

I always love the view from Mini worlds end rather than the greater one

flower of seetha pera

flower of seetha pera

in to the forest

in to the forest

 reaching the end of the circular trail which took only 2 and a half hours

reaching the end of the circular trail which took only 2 and a half hours

finally met a pack of them

finally met a pack of them

good bye misty plains

good bye misty plains

 

A Three Day Trip to Kumana Natioanl Park, to experience the ultimate wilderness

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Year and Month February, 2014 (14th to 16th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 10 (between 25-32 years of age)
Accommodation Camping: I was able to book Moya Kata campsite for 14th night and Eda Kumbuka 01 campsite for 15th night department of wildlife. However due to high water level in kumana villu it was impossible for jeeps to get to the Kata site. So we had to settle with Eda Kumbuka campsite for both nights.
Transport Van from Giriulla (North western province) to Panama. Thereafter we used two jeeps from Panama to Kumana park
Activities Camping, Wildlife, Photography
Weather The weather was dry and Excellent for visiting
Route
  • Giriulla -> Urapola -> Ratnapura -> Pellmadulla -> Thanamalwila -> Wellawaya -> Buttala -> Monaragala -> Potuvil -> Panama -> Kumana
  • On return we took: Kumana -> Panama -> Potuvil -> Monaragala -> Bibila -> Kandy via Rajamawatha -> Kurunegala -> Giriulla
  • The return road was around 60km shorter
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Camp sites should be reserved in advance from the department of Wildlife, However, you can book all other campsites except Gal Amuna and Eda Kumbuka from the park office given that the phone number is working.
  • Kumana means serious wilderness. So make lists of all provisions and be well prepared well in advance before you visit the park. Once you go inside you cannot just come back for provisions. Last acceptable level town from park office is Panama which is around 30km from the entrance
  • Take lots of drinking water
  • You need 4wheel drive vehicles to visit Kumana. we booked our jeeps in advance (Sorry I lost all my contact numbers). But one jeep was owned by Senaka Chandralal who’s name has been mentioned several times in this blog related to kumana NP. The other Guy was Chanaka from Lahugala area who was a very good and enthusiastic fellow. You may be able to get hold of him if you can talk to Lahugala Park office and asking from Mr. Disanayaka.
  • Be aware of the guides when selecting. Because the park is newly opened the guides may not be the best experienced people. I must mention the one we got was a lazy fellow who didn’t do much and enjoyed sleeping as his hobby :-) .
  • There is a new bungalow being built in kumana facing a beautiful little lake. We noted that it’s already finished and waiting to be declared open ceremoniously. Hopefully enthusiasts will be able to stay there at least by the end of this year which would be great :-)
Author ibleedpixels
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was our second visit to Kumana National Park. From the first visit back in 2012, I fell in love with the magnificent and unspoiled wilderness of Kumana. It truly deviates from overcrowded Yala NP and has an amazing calm and relaxing environment. We had to plan well in advance based on the experiences from our first visit (Will also upload that trip on a later day). All the bookings for camp sites and jeeps were made at least a month earlier.

We started our journey around 4.30am. It was a one long drive of around 300 km. However the drive was rather comfortable as great road conditions existed throughout the whole drive. At around 1.30 pm we reached Panama and met with Chanaka and Senaka. We left our Van at a place recommended by Senaka and got into the jeeps.

Getting ready with provisions

Getting ready with provisions

We had our lunch near Lahugala

We had our lunch near Lahugala

Starting our Journey from Panama

Starting our Journey from Panama

Wildlife on the Way…!

Wildlife on the Way…!

We were lucky to see a herd of elephants on the way to our campsite

We were lucky to see a herd of elephants on the way to our campsite

A usual customer

A usual customer

This one was very large and very serious

This one was very large and very serious

It was late in the evening when we reached eda kumbuka 01 campsite. The sight and setting of the site was stunningly beautiful. The Beautiful Kumbukkan oya was lazily flowing. I have stayed both at the Moya Kata and Gal Amuna in the previous occasion but I believe this site is the best camp site due to its serene location.

We set up our tents on the river bed and quickly collected firewood for cooking and the campfire. We had a cool dip in the river and had our dinner quickly.

First Night in the campsite..

First Night in the campsite..

By 11pm the moon was shining and it was truly a magnificent view. Sand on the river bed was gleaming in white in the moon light we could see at least a 500m along the river. We were mesmerized with the sight that sleep never came to us.

Day 2

We started our morning visit very early. We were able to see wild buffalos, coyotes, elephant and lots of bird life. But we weren’t able to see any leopards or bears.

Posing Nicely

Posing Nicely

Senaka’s Jeep visible from our Jeep

Senaka’s Jeep visible from our Jeep

Just like an Ostrich

Just like an Ostrich

A relaxing Family

A relaxing Family

Majestic isn’t it?...

Majestic isn’t it?…

In for the Morning Feast

In for the Morning Feast

This one was special as I saw it for the first time in my life

This one was special as I saw it for the first time in my life

Majestic…

Majestic…

Our Temporary Residences on the river bed

Our Temporary Residences on the river bed

Relaxing

Relaxing

Time for our chefs to show their colours

Time for our chefs to show their colours

Feels Heavenly

Feels Heavenly

After the morning visit we returned to the campsite and started preparing meals for lunch. Then it was time for the grand bath. We spent nearly 3 hours in the river and it was so relaxing. No sounds of dreaded mechanical buses, cars, trains, planes. Or even sounds of those shrieking lottery huts. The only sounds were coming from birds and monkeys and occasionally from large animals. What comes into our mind is a true feel of relief which is ideal medicine to relieve ourselves.

We made an evening safari visit returned back to our campsite for spending the night. And it was time to be back in the water :-)

Tents and the Campfire in the night

Tents and the Campfire in the night

This is a shot taken in the night in the moonlight. Do you see how bright the moonlight is..?

This is a shot taken in the night in the moonlight. Do you see how bright the moonlight is..?

It dead in the night and you are seeing river was glowing in the Moonlight…

It dead in the night and you are seeing river was glowing in the Moonlight…

Morning Comes and still there is moon

Morning Comes and still there is moon

Taken with my Tokina 11-16 f2.8 Wide angle lens

Taken with my Tokina 11-16 f2.8 Wide angle lens

Doing the final Cleaning up

Doing the final Cleaning up

Finally it was time to say goodbye to Edakumbuka. We had our morning meals, packed all our belongings to the jeeps and started the long way back to the entrance.

Our Crew

Our Crew

Sights on the way back

Sights on the way back

On the way back we paid a visit to the Okanda Devalaya and Kudumbigala ancient Monastry and made our retrn journey via Monaragala, bibila, kandy and Kurunegala. This was one of the best journeys I made in our lives.

More wildlife on the way back

More wildlife on the way back

Kudumbigala

Kudumbigala

Kudumbigala ancient Inscriptions

Kudumbigala ancient Inscriptions

Climbing up..

Climbing up..

Surrounding views from the top of Kudumbigala

Surrounding views from the top of Kudumbigala

Fishing boats in Potuvil

Fishing boats in Potuvil

Scenes around Bibila

Scenes around Bibila

Bibila beautiful and Lush

Bibila beautiful and Lush

The Loggal oya reservoir and the Rajamawatha

The Loggal oya reservoir and the Rajamawatha

 

Secrets of Bandarawela

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Year and Month March, 2014
Number of Days Three
Crew On day two there were 6 (Nalinda & Kamalawarna from Lakdasun)
Accommodation Friends place
Transport Public transport / trishaw / Train
Activities Archaeology / trekking / Scenery / Photography
Weather Mixed weather
Route D1: Monaragala -> Wellawaya -> Kumbalwela -> Halpe -> Dowa -> BandarawelaD2: Bandarawela -> Kinigama -> Bambaragama -> Kinigama -> BandarawelaD3: Bandarawela -> Nayabedda -> Dambetenna -> Haputale -> Idalgasinna -> Ella -> MonaragalaRaja vidiya trail map [Download Google Earth Trail Map]
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Get permission from the head priest or any other officer at archaeology sites
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Explain your intentions clearly to villagers
  • Adisham bungalow is open only on weekends for general public
  • Thangamale stretch is a lonely4Km path
  • Check the train schedule from Idalgasinna otherwise you would get stranded
  • The road to St Catherine’s point from the Nayabedda – Dambetenna road is terrible

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Indaka from Bandarawela

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The map - Click to enlarge

The map – Click to enlarge

It was one of those random weekends and I didn’t have any scheduled places to visit so I headed towards Badarawela. It was almost 1pm when I got down at Halpe and my first place of interest was Gangarama temple. Though the Uva tourist board had put up a notice board, this temple didn’t have any historical importance. Next target was Yahalamaditta temple. To reach this temple one needs to proceed towards Badulla for few Km’s and take the road to the right with the name board. There was an old image house with reconstructed Buddha statues. After returning back to the main road I walked towards the Board directing towards Pattini devalaya. To reach this ancient Halpe Pattini devalaya one needs to take a path along a paddy field. This wonderful building was left alone after the death of the main kapuwa. It is now cleaned and opened during the festival season only. From here I headed towards Dowa.

Quote The Devale roof is supported on eligantly carved timber columns with lotus bracket-capitals. Its inner chamber has clay walls. The section of the building known as Maligava is a two storied timber structure and the upper floor could be accessed by a wooden ladder. Its walls are of timber panels supported on stone columns and beams. Between the timber columns is a latticed fence. In the ground floor a sandalwood statue of Pattini Goddess and deposited besides it are processional lances, lamps and water containers. The carvings in this Devale depict the typical Kandyan tradition. The door frame of the entrance to one of the corridors is adorned with a Makara Torana and the images of doorkeepers. The Devale premises have an ancient Bhodhigara and the structure of an ancient temple. The evidence that a parapet enclosing all these items had been in existence is visible. This site not only displays the archaeological significance of the area but also as a place subject to veneration. The Archaeological Department has declared the Devale as a protected monument.

this board was put up coz the monk was a friend of a lokka of uva provincial council, these are put up at very important places usually

this board was put up coz the monk was a friend of a lokka of uva provincial council, these are put up at very important places usually

image house of gangaramaya temple

image house of gangaramaya temple

boardering the temple

boardering the temple

the pagoda

the pagoda

2km from the main road

2km from the main road

image house of yahalamaditta temple

image house of yahalamaditta temple

one out of many statues

one out of many statues

 some remaining paintings

some remaining paintings

belonging to kandyan era

belonging to kandyan era

Pali

Pali

newly built after treasure hunters destroyed it

newly built after treasure hunters destroyed it

what remains

what remains

few hundred meters from the main road

few hundred meters from the main road

 on the way scenery to Halpe pattini devalaya

on the way scenery to Halpe pattini devalaya

new life

new life

sinhasanaya

sinhasanaya

pattini devalaya on pillars

pattini devalaya on pillars

gloomy evening

gloomy evening

the closed door

the closed door

rear section

rear section

Dowa temple is famous among many visitors so I decided to wonder around appreciating the beautiful paintings. I went there in search of a specific painting called හස්ති-වෘෂභ කුංජරය where the head of the elephant and a bull seems to be merged together. Since time was limited I had to rush towards Bandarawela by cutting short my stay. ( More info on Dowa )

Dowa RMV main image house

Dowa RMV main image house

Dowa bana maduwa

Dowa bana maduwa

a painting at the entrance of the image house

a painting at the entrance of the image house

roof paintings at dowa

roof paintings at dowa

budha statue at dowa

budha statue at dowa

a unique picture of a single headed elephant and a cow

a unique picture of a single headed elephant and a cow

a meaningfull image

a meaningful image

copper door

copper door

paintings belonging to kandyan era

paintings belonging to kandyan era

the closed tunnel which once connected bogoda, ravana cave, kande viharaya cave and kaptugala during king walagambas period

the closed tunnel which once connected bogoda, ravana cave, kande viharaya cave and kaptugala during king walagambas period

 the beautiful sculpture

the beautiful sculpture

close up

close up

Bandarawela was a town which was under the influence of colonial ruling so there were many interesting buildings from that era. I firstly visited the Anglican Church which is at the beginning of Ettampitiya road. This was a small yet beautiful Chapel. The evening rays which came through the coloured glass produced some stunning images. Next I went towards the Methodist church and to get to it one needs to cross the road from the Anglican Church and walk few paces towards the town and take the right hand road. Unfortunately the door was closed so I took few snaps of the exterior and returned back to the old Bandarawela bus stand. In front of the bus stand there is a road towards the Meteorology department land where once they excavated and found evidence of a pre historic settlement in bandarawela. All the artifacts which were found are now kept at a museum in England. ( More info on this )

Ancient Anglican church at bandarawela

Ancient Anglican church at bandarawela

dusk

dusk

the lamp

the lamp

wow

wow

a small yet beautiful church

a small yet beautiful church

Hydrangea

Hydrangea

like a red sunflower

like a red sunflower

ancient Methodist church of bandarawela

ancient Methodist church of bandarawela

christ

christ

meteorological compound bandarwela which is located on an ancient site where the pre historic man made his weapons

meteorological compound bandarwela which is located on an ancient site where the pre historic man made his weapons

where the pre historic weapons were found

where the pre historic weapons were found

44 Pre historic weapon at England museum

Pre historic weapon at England museum

view from the site

view from the site

 where the weather is kept checked

where the weather is kept checked

Day two I was joined by few colleagues (some were lakdasun members) and Indaka from Bandarawela was going to guide us around. We reached Kinigama station and marched towards Heel oya and took a foot path towards Porogala from the railway. One could reach this rocky view point by taking the Kinigama Mahalpotha road. If you get down at Mahaulpotha temple you could walk to this site (if you don’t have a 4wd). There are few houses close to this rocky point. On the rock there is inscription stating (Herman) probably must be a survey engineer since this a triangulation point. From here one could appreciate Bandarawela, Kinigama, Diyathalawa, Heel oya, rail line and peaks of Nuwara eliya. We were also lucky enough to witness a train passing below. ( More info on this ) Next on the list was our main target for the day. That’s an ancient cave and a foot path from a forgotten era. To get to this place we took the road to Heel oya via Mahalpotha and got down at Ampitigoda. From here we climbed up through the tea estate. In this tea estate there is a cave with ancient paintings which we didn’t forget to visit. Continuing along the tea estate boarder brought us towards an ancient stairway which led uphill. And on this hill there were remains of a building. This was called ancient “Raja Vidiya” on Indaka’s blog. This peak had a wonderful view point where we rested awhile. From here we descended towards Makul ella and from there we walked towards Bambaragama to enjoy some breath taking scenery. From Makul ella we took a trishaw to Indaka’s place and had lunch before departing to our destinations.

 Porogala our first target on the very next day

Porogala our first target on the very next day

along the railway

along the railway

on the way scenery

on the way scenery

Porogala

Porogala

view towards bandarawela central college

view towards bandarawela central college

Kinigama

Kinigama

towards heel oya

towards heel oya

here she comes

here she comes

it goes through tunnel 39

it goes through tunnel 39

St Catherine point

St Catherine point

 walking towards the ancient cave

walking towards the ancient cave

petals

petals

ancient steps

ancient steps

the drip ledge cave in the tea estate

the drip ledge cave in the tea estate

you could still appreciate few flowers

you could still appreciate few flowers

note the drip ledge

note the drip ledge

another cave

another cave

a pillar

a pillar

these steps leads all the way to the summit where few remnants of a building could be found

these steps leads all the way to the summit where few remnants of a building could be found

remnants

remnants

view towards makul ella from the observation point

view towards makul ella from the observation point

the drop and kaputugala on the right

the drop and kaputugala on the right

St Catherine point  seen while descending

St Catherine point seen while descending

 one of those lakes at makul ella

one of those lakes at makul ella

wild berry

wild berry

beautiful road wish it had some mist

beautiful road wish it had some mist

 isolated Bambaragama located on top of Rawana falls(inappropriately named)

isolated Bambaragama located on top of Rawana falls(inappropriately named)

the Kaputa at kaputugala this is said to be formed by a crack on the rock which had given moisture for the licans to create and colony like a crow

the Kaputa at kaputugala this is said to be formed by a crack on the rock which had given moisture for the licans to create and colony like a crow

the female Grey-headed canary Flycatcher

the female Grey-headed canary Flycatcher

and the male

and the male

towards Porogala while returning to bandarawela

towards Porogala while returning to bandarawela

Day 3 was another lonely expedition day. From Bandarawela I took a bus to Nayabedda and from there I hired a trishaw to St Catherine’s point. While traveling on Nayabedda – Dambetenna road one would come across a junction where a direction slab could be found. We took the left turn and went towards the communication towers of St Catherine’s. The road was a 4WD one but the scenery simply made us forget about all the obstacles. From this point one could see far south and even south east. We returned back to the main road and went towards Dambetenna

St catherines and nayabedda range as seen from sandatenna

St catherines and nayabedda range as seen from sandatenna

on the way scenery at Nayabedda

on the way scenery at Nayabedda

the junction

the junction

remains of the seat

remains of the seat

 narangala as seen from st catherines

narangala as seen from st catherines

namunukula

namunukula

Pachawahini tower

Pachawahini tower

 fox hill

fox hill

Bandarawela town

Bandarawela town

Gommolli range

Gommolli range

diyathalawa - bandarawela

diyathalawa – bandarawela

silver tip tea

silver tip tea

Before reaching Dambetenna we took another left turn towards Lipton seat and reached there without any problems. Since it was a clear day we were lucky enough to see far towards the south. Koslanda, Wellawaya, Hambegamuwa & Udawalawa were the prominent areas seen. From Lipton seat I asked the trishaw driver to take me to Dambetenna where I took a bus to Haputhale.

 lovely tea fields

lovely tea fields

Dambetenna

Dambetenna

 tuk tuk shots

tuk tuk shots

what beautiful tea trail

what beautiful tea trail

lipton seat

lipton seat

early morning visitors

early morning visitors

well maintained roads

well maintained roads

view towards down south

view towards down south

poonagala range and hadapanagala

poonagala range and hadapanagala

 koslanda

koslanda

From Haputhale I took a trishaw to Adisham which was 4Km’s away. Unfortunately the doors were close since it wasn’t a weekend day but the guard was kind enough to let me wonder around the garden a bit to take few snaps. There is a foot path which starts at the boarder of Adisham which goes through Thangamale sanctuary. This was going to be a lonely and a lovely hike. The 4km stretch to the end point went through mountain forest, mana patches, Pines plots until the rail line was reached. On the way I took a detour by climbing uphill via the pines plot to reach a summit point where a tea estate on Upper Haldummulla side could be reached. After getting back to the rail line I walked towards Idalgasinna station and took a train to Ella and departed towards Monaragala to end this long trip. 

reached dambetenna

reached dambetenna

Adisham monastery

Adisham monastery

the saint

the saint

side view

side view

roses

roses

 a spectrum

a spectrum

starting point

starting point

 bunch of flowers

bunch of flowers

what a lovely and lonely path

what a lovely and lonely path

not all rays pass through the upper layer

not all rays pass through the upper layer

providing shade

providing shade

wow

wow

a view point

a view point

wish i went to a bandarawela school

wish i went to a bandarawela school

life on life

life on life

moss

moss

a stream

a stream

mountain forest

mountain forest

the common beauty

the common beauty

entering the eucalyptus

entering the eucalyptus

view from the summit where the tea estate is found

view from the summit where the tea estate is found

view towards hambegamuwa

view towards hambegamuwa

hanging from branches

hanging from branches

never seen this one before

never seen this one before

captured

captured

entering the last eucalyptus plot

entering the last eucalyptus plot

what a path

what a path

welimada side

welimada side

 a pano

a pano

the badulla rain line

the badulla rain line

towards ohiya

towards ohiya

asoka

asoka

horton plains

horton plains

 exiting the sanctuary

exiting the sanctuary

 wow

wow

idalgasinna station

idalgasinna station

Thanks for reading!

Gombaniya the Extreme hike (1906m)

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Year and Month August, 2014
Number of Days one
Crew 3 (Amila, Nishan & my self)
Guides 2 (Wimal & Kumara – 0817926312 of Allakole estate)
Accommodation Two days at a friend’s place at Panwila
Transport Public transport and Trishaw
Activities Hiking / Scenery / Trekking / Photography
Weather Gloomy day
Route Colombo -> Wattegama -> Panwila -> Huluganga -> Alakolle estate -> Rathnatenna -> Returned back on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Take a bottle of water
    • Wear attire suitable for protection against thorns.
    • Use Leech repellents
    • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
    • Don’t disturb wild life
    • Need a guide
    • Main obstacle is BAMBOO bushes
    • you need a good knife (Rambo) one or a Keththa to cut through the bushes (it’s a must)
    • Its only 2Km from the trail head but will take more than 3 hours to reach the summit
    • Keep an open eye on the weather (if it rains the hike is tough)
    • Gombaniya is a mountain range where it would take a half a day to explore
    • Most of the time windy and misty
    • February is the ideal time but august is also fine
    • One could camp at Rathnatenna resort and start the journey from there but need to get permission from the SD
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
Merging 4 maps to make one map was difficult just like the hike - Click to enlarge

Merging 4 maps to make one map was difficult just like the hike – Click to enlarge

For years I have wanted to conquer the highest point of Knuckles and lack of any good information on it was the reason why I didn’t attempt it. Out of nowhere the thought of climbing Gombaniya came in to my mind and I called my friend at Panwila. He was ever so willing to do this hike, Amila also joined at the last moment to make matters more interesting. I know few more guys were also willing to join, but this sudden decision (as always) made it difficult for them.

Gombaniya is a mountain range and is located on the western border of Knuckles conservation its vegetation is almost similar to Horton plains because of its high altitude. The mountain could be reached from Rathnatenna (Alakolle estate) or Nelummale watta (Kabaragala side). The shorter but complex route is Rathnatenna side. We arrived on the previous day to Panwila and stayed the night there. Next day morning we cooked our two meals and left on the first bus to Huluganga. From Huluganga we took a trishaw to Alakolle estate upper division and walked towards Rathnatenna resort. This resort at the end of the jungle is a superb place to camp or rest. We had our breakfast at this point and started marching towards the forest. The path initially was through an abandoned tea estate and was going in parallel to a stream. We were constantly climbing uphill crossing streams. At one time we came across a waterfall and had to crawl along a slippery slope to bypass it. Close to the waterfall there was a hump nosed viper posing for a picture and we didn’t disappoint it. We somehow came on to a flat rock which provided some stunning scenery on the valleys below and the mountain range which we had to tackle. We noted a triangular peak protruding out of Gombaniya range and this was going to be the entry point to the range for us. In a glimpse everything was covered again in mist and we started heading towards the base of the range.

what sight to start the day (hulu ganaga falls)

what sight to start the day (hulu ganaga falls)

road to Allakole estate

road to Allakole estate

Gombaniya on a clear day

Gombaniya on a clear day

on the way scenery to rathnatenna

on the way scenery to Rathnatenna

wild berrys were yummy

wild berry’s were yummy

Gombaniya covered with mist

Gombaniya covered with mist

Rathnatenna resort what a relaxing place

Rathnatenna resort what a relaxing place

Dull blue flycatcher

Dull blue flycatcher

mountain forest

mountain forest

along the stream

along the stream

a cascade

a cascade

perfect background

perfect background

giving a hand

giving a hand

lovely beauties found all over the ground

lovely beauties found all over the ground

the pink version

the pink version

 a white beauty

a white beauty

only found near streams

only found near streams

snail droppings

snail droppings

first view point

first view point

the second view point

the second view point

plenty of valleys to get lost

plenty of valleys to get lost

the triangular peak is the place where we need to enter the mountain range

the triangular peak is the place where we need to enter the mountain range

the abyss we climbed up to enter the range after tackling bamboo and nelu

the abyss we climbed up to enter the range after tackling bamboo and nelu

The Bamboo and Nelu bushes with slippery slopes were not helping us on our final ascend. Somehow we crawled and reached the Gombaniya range from the right side of the pointed rock. After getting on to the range we started walking along it through the pygmy forest and shorter version of bush bamboos until we reached the first flat rock. From here we went further and reached the second flat rock which was sloped but yet a spectacular view point. On one side we could see the adjoining mountain (Yakkungegala / Rathnatenna kanda) forming a remarkable drop towards Wallapomulla side. The river flowing at the bottom of the abyss called Kuda oya later meets up with Kalu ganga which rises from Kalupahana. When the mist got cleared we saw far away lakes at Mahiyanganaya. So on a clear day one could enjoy a spectacular sun rise over the eastern ocean from here and witness a magnificent sun set from the west. On the other side of the mountain Campbell’s lane forest reserve and Hunnasgiri peak was seen clearly whenever the mist thinned off. The mist was blowing towards us like clouds crashing into us. There were so many unforgettable moments which I couldn’t convert in to paragraphs but only relish in my memories. The range was a long one but covered with forest cover and we did proceed along it until the mist settled permanently. It is said during the flowering season the whole range is covered with thousands of flowers (especially Binara). We did come across many flowers during our expedition though they were found spread in a scattered manner.

first view once getting on to gombaniya range

first view once getting on to gombaniya range

unknown

unknown

time for exploration

time for exploration

 first flat rock

first flat rock

beautiful leaves

beautiful leaves

it cleared out on and off

it cleared out on and off

 what a diversity

what a diversity

another beauty

another beauty

are we in heaven?

are we in heaven?

the drop from heaven

the drop from heaven

 gombaniya peak seen far away

gombaniya peak seen far away

the best view point

the best view point

towards Rathtota

towards Rathtota

hunnasgiri range

hunnasgiri range

towards Wallapomulla

towards Wallapomulla

Yakkunge hela drop

Yakkunge hela drop

note the cliffs

note the cliffs

far away lakes of mahiyanganaya could be seen

far away lakes of mahiyanganaya could be seen

kuda oya meets kalu ganga on its later part

kuda oya meets kalu ganga on its later part

lovely

lovely

Yakkungegala or Rathnatenna kanda

Yakkungegala or Rathnatenna kanda

mist been blown away from the abyss

mist been blown away from the abyss

Madulkele

Madulkele

Campbell's lane reserve covered with mist

Campbell’s lane reserve covered with mist

 hanging free

hanging free

gombaniya range

gombaniya range

nelu

nelu

wow

wow

Bladderwort(Utricularia spp.)

Bladderwort(Utricularia spp.)

red tree tops

red tree tops

 lovely isnt it

lovely isn’t it

more to go

more to go

flowered bed

flowered bed

heavenly

heavenly

what a seat!

what a seat!

sheer drops

sheer drops

imagine been here

imagine been here

spooky

spooky

grandfathers beard

grandfathers beard

I really love this one

I really love this one

had to stop here

had to stop here

The extreme cold winds caused us to shiver at 12pm so we had to take our lunch to gain our lost calories and get ready to descend back. The descend was going smoothly until we lost the path at one place and out of nowhere a shower poured down to terrify us. Fortunately most of us in our group were knowledgeable on trekking so following some fruitful discussions and decisions we found the path running close to the waterfall. At this point we came across a horned lizard who was a good poser too. There were only 3 or 4 leeches that worried me during this hike and the high altitude should be thanked for that. We entered the tea patch covered with mud and continued along the estates until we got a trishaw to Panwila. This was a memorable and once in a lifetime adventure that was done with caution. There are plenty of valleys to get lost and if you don’t climb from the proper place you are going to be in trouble. Hope this would be helpful to others who want to venture in to Gombaniya in future.

lunch time

lunch time

mist was becoming permanant

mist was becoming permanant

in to the mist

in to the mist

I will always snap these

I will always snap these

Binara

Binara

most flowers are either purple or pink

most flowers are either purple or pink

bamboos are providing some comfort to this shivering soul

bamboos are providing some comfort to this shivering soul

down we go

down we go

bye bye

bye bye

crawling at sometimes

crawling at sometimes

horned lizard

horned lizard

the team at end destination

the team at end destination

he decided to have an ice cold swim

he decided to have an ice cold swim

looking back

looking back

Thanks for reading!

Most Sacred Mountain in the World – Sri Pada (Rajamale Route)

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Year and Month 24-26 Jan, 2015
Number of Days 3
Crew Ana, Atha, Prasa and Me
Accommodation Fishing Hut, Maskeliya
Transport By SUV
Activities Photography, Hiking, Climbing Sri Pada, Relaxation, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Battaramulla->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Kalugala->Maussakelle->Mulgama->Moray Estate->Fishing Hut.Fishing Hut->Mulgama->Maussakelle->Maskeliya->Hatton->Avissawella->Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Booking Fishing Hut in advance is essential, especially if you do it during the season.
    • Check the Detailed Info on Fishing Hut here.
    • Avoid rainy season as much as possible.
    • Leech protection is a must especially in the wet season.
    • From Mulgama Junction to Fishing Hut is about 12km and should ideally be done in a Jeep or similar vehicle. 4WD is not a must but would be handy when the conditions turn bad during rains.
    • If you’re climbing the Sri Pada, start as early as possible. It’s better to avoid doing this in the dark as the forest is frequented by Wild Boars and Leopards that can be dangerous.
    • Torches are a must.
    • No mobile reception at Fishing Hut but available at a few places further away. Sign postings are put up by the estate.
    • Cold weather attire is essential.
    • Be careful when bathing in the Baththulu Oya.
    • Medicine such as Paracetamol, Siddhalepa, etc. would come handy.
    • Don’t pluck those beautiful plants and bring them back with you. They won’t grow anywhere else so please leave them there.
    • Minimise the usage of Polythene and Plastic. If you use, please bring them back as those people at the place might not dispose of them properly.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Pada, probably the most sacred and worshipped mountain in the whole universe, is a place where millions of pilgrims visit year after year. This is not just another mountain to be climbed but a place where people from many different religions, races and nationalities pay homage. This is a hallmark of the Buddhists where they worship the footprint of one (probably the greatest) of the great philosophers, mind you not just a religious leader, who had walked on this earth. However, there are a few other religious groups that believe this to be their religion leader’s footprint.

For the past hundreds maybe thousands of years countless number of people has visited this sacred place in the hope of getting some inner peace into their troubled minds. Not only those who seek some peace and quiet conquer this mountain but also adventurous travelers who need to test their stamina and add this mesmerizing peak to their ticked list. There are many others with so many reasons that come to this place in numbers.

Talking about Sri Lankans, they have been doing this journey from as far as we can dig into the history. The conditions had been so arduous and dangerous due to the sheer height and unforgiving terrain. However nothing has so far been able to stop the relentless trying and courage of the people and I’m very sure nothing will change that in the future either. From newborns to the great grandmothers and fathers this is a journey that needs to be achieved at least once in their lifetimes. It’s become a dream for many and even an obsession for some but everyone regardless of their age, physical & mental conditions and gender this is a must-do.

There are many people who have done and still do this journey as many times as possible. That is for many, something to boast about. To symbolize the number of attempts, there is a ritual they perform once at the summit. That is to ring a bell located at the peak depending on the number of times you’ve been there. For example, if that is your first time, you can ring the bell just once. If that was your tenth visit, you could ring it ten times. This is not a rule, but a simple and a long-lasting custom out of many by the pilgrims. Among them are some very interesting rituals performed by the devotees but I’ll leave you to search for them that are widely available in many reference books.

Recollections of my first visit to this sacred place are vague and sketchy. It occurred when I was a kid, probably around ten. Out of the few things I can recall are the overflowing people, Seetha Gangula (the stream that flows from the Sri Pada Mountain), darkness, extreme cold, never-ending steps and a rock hard fish bun whose exorbitant price made my granny’s eyes pop clean out of their sockets. She could only afford one and I can remember my teeth biting into the rocky bun and the pain which shot through the jaws all the way into the brain. We traveled in the night after a cold bath in the Seetha Gangula, climbing countless steps being chilled to the marrow making one of the team to lend his sweater to me. I had no idea as to why on earth we were doing that at the time. It all seemed very peculiar to see that many people trying to get to the top amid so many hardships. I was just another curious but childish kid who had no clue about this custom then.

Looking back I feel ashamed of feeling like that at the time. To this moment I’ve been to the Sri Pada five times, forgive me if I sound boastful. Out of them, except the first time I’ve done the other four times not because my family or anyone else but I really wanted to go there and feel the inner peace that course through my veins right into the mind and soul. It’s magical and I’m helpless if you ask me to put it into words. You gotta do it to be able to experience the sensational feeling runs through your mind. Those who have done it will surely know what I’m trying to get across to you.

There are six known paths to the top of the highest peak of the Samanala Mountain Range that is also the fourth highest in Sri Lanka. They are if I’m to list them according to the mostly used by the pilgrims:

  1. Hatton Route.
  2. Rathnapura aka Sri Palabaddala Route.
  3. Kuruwita aka Erathna Route.
  4. Rajamale Route.
  5. Maliboda Route.
  6. Dehenakanda aka Hapugasthenna Route.

This is also the ascending order in terms of difficulty as well. The distance ranges from 5km up to 14km depending on the trail. The shortest is believed to be the Hatton Route while the longest is the Kuruwita Route. The adventurous folks try to get to the top by all six routes while extra adventurous types keep searching for either to uncover the old ones or find new ways to reach their goals. That is one of my dreams as well, try and conquer this magical mountain in all six routes before I call it a lifetime and rest my bones. So far including the first time, I’ve been to the top thrice via Hatton Route (Check One of Them here) and once each via Rathnapura Route and Rajamale Route. What I’m trying to bring you is the latest of my journeys through the Rajamale Route.

Ana, Atha & Prasa had been with me (not forgetting the old Tony) for some unforgettable journeys recently. It’s been a great pleasure being able to travel with guys who share the same passion and their combined experience in life is a real bonus when it comes to planning and tackling difficulties. This time we chose Sri Pada mainly for two reasons. First to take Ana to this wonderful location for the first time and second I wanting to try a different way to the top. We carefully picked out the ideal time, accommodation, transportation and the route making sure the foundation stage of our journey was firmly placed. Then it was all down to our dedication, luck and the blessings of the Mother Nature which all fell nicely into place like a perfectly solved jigsaw puzzle.

Ana booked Fishing Hut, an isolated log-cabin-type place at the border of the Peak Wilderness with Baththulu Oya flowing right next. It’s like a paradise on earth surrounded by the lush greenery rain forest, set at the edge of a tea patch belonging to Moray Estate bordered by one side by the virgin flow of Baththulu Oya with an amazing view of the Sacred Mountain in the distance. Having been used by the English during the colonial era for trout fishing gave it the name Fishing Hut. The trout and fishing all have now become a part of the history but the isolated and peaceful environment is a stress buster for the workaholic. I’d wanted to visit the place so much after all the good things I’d come across about it. So finally being able to go and stay there for a couple of days was yet another dream come true for me. Additionally,climbing the Sri Pada through a trail not attempted before was a gem of an opportunity. I wasn’t gonna miss it for the world.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Fishing Hut.
  2. Sri Pada via Rajamale.

Day 01

We set off in the wee hours of 24th Saturday towards Del Housie aka Nallathanniya. It was during one of the Waterfall Hunts that I learned Nallathanniya was also called Del House. However in this journey it was revealed that the real term was Del Housie not Del House. I seem to learn new things quite a lot in my travels. The heavy rains that troubled more than three quarters of the country wreaking havoc had gone to a faraway land. The crescent moon shone up in the sky signaling perfect weather and someone had taken so much trouble to paste a few million diamond-like stars across the sky.

When we arrived at Kalugala junction it was still dark and we decided to take the old road via Laxapana to Maussakelle. The headlights made a big pool of light in front helping Ana maneuver the hairpin bends. We saw a couple of vehicles going to pay homage to the sacred mountain as this was Saturday. Arriving at a small Kovil with an abandoned tea factory below gave us a perfectly good view of the Seven Virgins and Laxapana Falls. The sky had turned off the halogen lamp and taken off the expensive diamonds she was wearing. Orange and pink glow appeared to the left most edge of the Seven Virgins notifying us of the arrival of the sun. The clouds were ablaze with bright yellow and golden rays reflecting on them while the sky was slowly getting into her more comfortable royal blue wrap. Tips of the naughty Seven Virgins got the first of the rays giving them a beautiful contrast between the top and the bottom. This called for a few pictures and we got down to be hit by a blast of cold air. It was scented with the freshness of the morning and we breathed in hungrily.

With it woke the ravenous worms in our bellies demanding for breakfast. We had no choice but to pamper them. The vegetable sandwiches tasted delicious. I’m no vegetarian but had always taken an effort to remain vegetarian during the previous visits to the holy mountain. Even that rocky fish bun I had in my first visit had nothing discriminating than a touch harmless vegetables as far as I can remember. I believe that it helps cleanse my mind free of wickedness and evil thoughts remaining vegetarian. It will also help you have a safe journey and do your rituals in peace. Some of you would want to differ but this is purely what I feel. Ana took great pains to plan our meals with no hint of meat of any kind. After a delicious breakfast (still wishing there were more of those lovely sandwiches) and a dozen or so pictures we got back into the vehicle and drove on.

Viewing point of Laxapana Falls...

Viewing point of Laxapana Falls…

Mighty Seven Virgins, note the tiny streak of Laxapana Falls

Mighty Seven Virgins, note the tiny streak of Laxapana Falls

Enjoying the breakfast while dogs kept begging for scraps

Enjoying the breakfast while dogs kept begging for scraps

Sun opens shop

Sun opens shop

Lighted

Lighted

The road was largely devoid of any traffic and we turned onto the Del Housie at Maussakelle. The police check point was active once again and they will take care of your musical instruments for you should you have any with you. Remember, you are visiting a very sacred place and must give the respect it’s due regardless of who you are. It’s advisable not to do anything to destroy the peacefulness of the surrounding by your reckless behavior. We drove on with a placid Maussakelle Reservoir to our left. Mulgama Lower Falls still had a decent amount of water but turning on we saw the sorry state of Mohini. She looked as if someone had kidnapped not only her child but also her white Saree as well. She was practically naked save for a few strings of muslin cloth hanging loosely over her. We felt shy to get down so drove on towards Mulgama Junction. Just before we decided to stop for a plain tea. The shop had just been opened up for the day and ginger-flavored plain tea warmed our bodies by a few degrees.

At Mulgama Junction, we turned to the left and stopped at a shop close by for a few provisions. There is closer to 12km from here to the fishing hut along a terrible road full of pot holes and jutting out rocks. A car or a similar type of vehicle will have a serious problem in this road whose condition got worse after the showers. Despite the bitter condition we enjoyed the scenery alike especially the Maussakelle Reservoir and perfectly plucked tea bushes glistening in the first rays of the day. In the far distance beyond the Maussakelle Reservoir lies urbanized Maskeliya town. After a couple of km, we entered Moray estate and reached the fishing hut turn into the right. The straight road will take you to the Moray tea factory and beyond towards the Peak Field Falls.

Entering Moray Estate

Entering Moray Estate

Beautiful day

Beautiful day

Wondering towards the reservoir

Wondering towards the reservoir

Mist rising from the water

Mist rising from the water

Perfect shadow

Perfect shadow

Gorgeous sky

Gorgeous sky

Royal blue

Royal blue

All around green

All around green

Ana with his million dollar smile

Ana with his million dollar smile

The road goes through the tea estate with a splendid view of the reservoir and beyond that Gartmore Falls. There is a short stretch of concrete paved road that will make your battered vehicle smile. We soon arrived at the summer hut which overlooks the Maussakelle Reservoir and to the right is the silky flow of Gartmore Falls and above her the hills and upper cascades of the Gartmore Estate. We carried on without stopping for a picture and entered the dusty estate road. Beyond the tea cultivation is the Peak Wilderness Nature Reserve. We got a grand view of the Sri Pada after a while. The sky was blue and a few stray clouds hung mischievously here and there. The cone-shaped peak had a gorgeous color combination of green and grey where the rock was exposed. The yellow painted structure on the top could be seen clearly. Ana had a helluva job of maneuvering around the uneven road and finally we arrived at the entrance to the fishing hut.

There were signs of various wild animals fixed among the tea plants such as Leopard (according to Prasa, Running Coach), Porcupine, Sambar Deer, Rabbits and Wild Boar. It’d gone 10am and as usual we were early but used the time to get used to the environment. Already there were three vehicles parked signaling some visitors were staying. Fortunately for us, they were going back on the same day and no other group had made a booking during our stay leaving the whole of the fishing hut for us to enjoy. I’ve put a separate post on the fishing hut which surely is useful for the future travelers. However, I’ll just run through the setup of the location so that you can get a feel of it.

Landscape

Landscape

A bridge along the road.

A bridge along the road.

Sri Pada covered in the mist

Sri Pada covered in the mist

Closer

Closer

Oranges

Oranges

The cabins are close by

The cabins are close by

There are four accommodation options at fishing hut. They are Cabin 1, 2, 3 & 4. They are located among the taller trees hidden from the view giving the much required privacy and isolation. There is a workers’ hut as well where they keep stuff and even stay over. Baththulu Oya flows closer to all the cabins separating the estate from the forest reserve. When you look from the front, the cabin 3 is at the extreme left while the camp site to the extreme right. Between these two are the cabin 2 & 1. The workers’ shed is between the cabin 2 & 1. There’s plenty of space separating the cabins and the parking space is big enough to keep more than half a dozen vehicles. Each cabin has their own access to the river should they feel like a cold bath. They also have a splendid view of the holy peak which is outstanding especially in the night when the summit is all lit up.

The other group left around 11.30am wishing us a happy holiday and we went to our cabin to prepare ourselves for the stay. The beds are made of the wooden sticks so they are not perfectly balanced. The mattresses are good but covered with a waterproof plastic cover. This was a bit uncomfortable as the bed sheets kept slipping in and around in the night. That cover feels very cold and should you come into contact in the night in your sleep, it’s bound to jolt you out of your dreams. It was very quiet save for the rustling of the leaves. Water levels were low so that the river kind of stayed still without making a sound. The caretaker was John, one of the estate workers and boy, he could cook really well. Ana took charge of meal planning and gave him a pre-planned menu for the entire period. Vegetarian was the theme and I’m sure we must have been the only group to have gone like that. While the lunch was being prepared, we went for a bath in the river. The water was freezing but Ana and Prasa didn’t mind one bit.

Around 12.30pm, we returned to the hut to find the laid table. There was Samba Rice with Dhal, Gotukola, Coconut Sambol and Papadam. We made short work of the food and devoured a cashew nut chocolate before going for a nap. It was cold and we slept soundly till 3.15pm when Ana woke us up for coffee.

Path to our cabin

Path to our cabin

Heavenly

Heavenly

There it is

There it is

Doesn't look much but adequate for our purpose

Doesn’t look much but adequate for our purpose

Main structure

Main structure

Leisure hut

Leisure hut

Ana posing in front of where the usual travelers had left their mark

Ana posing in front of where the usual travelers had left their mark

Tree house too

Tree house too

Leisure and tree huts

Leisure and tree huts

Our verandah

Our verandah

Dining area

Dining area

Two rooms and the bathroom

Two rooms and the bathroom

One of the rooms with bunk beds

One of the rooms with bunk beds

The other

The other

Going for a stroll

Going for a stroll

Another viewing platform

Another viewing platform

Not the Bogoda Wooden Bridge

Not the Bogoda Wooden Bridge

Nicely maintained

Nicely maintained

Towards Hut No. 1 and beyond camp site

Towards Hut No. 1 and beyond camp site

Just look at this

Just look at this

Still covered

Still covered

Entrance to the camp site

Entrance to the camp site

Above ground

Above ground

Steps to the top

Steps to the top

Nice place

Nice place

Baththulu Oya calm and placid

Baththulu Oya calm and placid

Another view

Another view

Framed

Framed

Viewing hut and the bridge

Viewing hut and the bridge

Finally the veil was lifted

Finally the veil was lifted

We were treated by this view

We were treated by this view

Prasa showing his skills

Prasa showing his skills

Baththulu Oya another angle

Baththulu Oya another angle

Doing the hardwork with a smile

Doing the hardwork with a smile

From the tree house

From the tree house

Calm water but very cold

Calm water but very cold

Doing the house keeping too

Doing the house keeping too

Beds are made

Beds are made

Washroom

Washroom

Insisted to go up the rickety steps

Insisted to go up the rickety steps

Shaky legs

Shaky legs

From our hut

From our hut

This is the Hut No. 2

This is the Hut No. 2

Main structure

Main structure

Front

Front

Summer huts

Summer huts

Other side

Other side

Very cold

Very cold

Where our guys had a bath

Where our guys had a bath

Still water

Still water

John doing the cooking

John doing the cooking

Ana already munching on a papadam

Ana already munching on a papadam

Hungry

Hungry

Steaming cup of coffee was all I needed and we then took a stroll towards the Rajamale trail head. There’s no electricity or mobile reception at the fishing hut which is always a relief. However if you want to make a phone call, walk up to the entrance gate (about 500m from the cabin) and then turn into the left uphill road that leads to the trail head after a km or so. As soon as you turn, there’s a signage saying mobile reception is available to that point with the service providers’ names. While others made calls, I spent previous fading light to take pictures. Walking up proved to be a bit too much so decided to cut the stroll in half and get back to the hut.

John and two other people were preparing for the night. There were four hurricane lamps and a Petromax lamp as well to light the cabin. The authorities were providing the kerosene for them as well unlike old days. Cutlery and gas (both cylinder and the cooker) are also provided. We enjoyed a rest in the open verandah-like area while they got busy with dinner. It was Rice once again with Canned Polos, Leeks, Beans, Mango and Papadam. It too was tasty. While Ana went to bed early, we kept experimenting with our point-n-shoot cameras to take some good shots of the lit holy peak. The upper lights along Hatton route were clearly visible while one from the Rathnapura side as well. The huge Buddhist Flag kept flashing while patches of mist covered the summit every now and then. No camera could have a better sight than with your own eyes. So we savored this magical moment to the maximum. None of us felt the cold staying out with our cameras and Atha’s tripod. Around 8.30pm, we felt tired and sleepy. As the following day had greater prospects, we decided to go to bed. The blankets helped to retain the warmth but a few times I was unlucky to feel the icy cold plastic cover. We slept like logs till I heard scraping and moving noises coming out of our room. I was all of a sudden as white as an A4 with fear.

Hey

Hey

Innocent look

Innocent look

Another

Another

Almighty yawn

Almighty yawn

John getting the firewood ready

John getting the firewood ready

Rabbits

Rabbits

Our cabin

Our cabin

Going for a walk

Going for a walk

Winding roads

Winding roads

Ana showing the tongue

Ana showing the tongue

Sacred mountain in the distance

Sacred mountain in the distance

There

There

Porcupines too

Porcupines too

Here's the junctin where the road forks. The left to Fishing Hut and the right to Rajamale Trail

Here’s the junctin where the road forks. The left to Fishing Hut and the right to Rajamale Trail

Prasa feeding the fish

Prasa feeding the fish

One of the few mobile reception spots and Ana making full use

One of the few mobile reception spots and Ana making full use

The road

The road

The team

The team

No Hunting

No Hunting

Ripe

Ripe

Preparing sandwiches for tomorrow

Preparing sandwiches for tomorrow

Final touches

Final touches

Hurricane lamps

Hurricane lamps

Lighting the petromax lamp

Lighting the petromax lamp

Taking pics

Taking pics

Getting the dinner ready

Getting the dinner ready

Polos

Polos

Mango

Mango

Leeks

Leeks

And Beans

And Beans

Tasting

Tasting

Hmmm... Just what the doctor ordered

Hmmm… Just what the doctor ordered

Nice and quiet

Nice and quiet

Crescent moon

Crescent moon

Day 02

I pulled the blanket down and listened hard, but nothing came. The phone showed the time as 3.23am. Gosh, what on earth am I supposed to be doing? Prasa was sleeping like a grizzly bear snoring so loudly as if a chainsaw cutting into a teak trunk. I got down trying to figure out what was the noise. The hurricane lamp in our room sent a faint beam of light which did very little to light the surrounding. Then I heard shuffling feet and clearing of the throat. Ana was already up and about. “Good morning!” I greeted him and he was already getting ready to make coffee. I too badly wanted a cuppa and in a little while both Atha and Prasa, having sawn the day’s quota of wood, joined us. By 4am we had all finished our morning coffee and got out to take a look at our target.

Sri Pada mountain peak was illuminated with the lights along the Hatton route. The mist came in and out blocking the view but mostly we had a better picture. You can get an even better view closer to the hut number one so Atha and I walked towards it leaving Prasa to help Ana organize the day. Our plan was to leave at 6am so we had to get everything ready in time. Thanks to our headlamps, we managed to get closer to the hut number one and set up the tripod. When we reached there, the view was even better. We could see a larger part of the mountain and spent more than half hour taking pictures. However, our not-so-complex point-n-shoots couldn’t get the desired effect of the long exposure shots but it couldn’t discourage us from trying. We got back to find John too had arrived and busily making Kadala for breakfast. Our water line was cut off and John said that it must have been the Sambar Deer. He’d spotted two of them near the entrance and they had apparently kicked the pipeline loose.

Cluster of gems, the Uda Maluwa seen from Fishing Hut

Cluster of gems, the Uda Maluwa seen from Fishing Hut

Closer, note the Buddhist Flag

Closer, note the Buddhist Flag

Closer

Closer

While he went to check on it, we packed the stuff we needed for the hike. Soon the water was back and we washed ourselves while John made tempered grams for breakfast with garlic, onion and chilies. Chef Ana and Assistant Chef Prasa had made two different sandwiches to take with us. Tomato & Chutney Sandwiches and Tomato & Seeni Sambol Sandwiches. We got everything into the vehicle and after a hearty breakfast drove onto the trail head which is about 1-1.5km away. It was 6.20am when we arrived at the summer hut marking the trail head set amid the tea estate. Looking back towards fishing hut we saw this beautiful sunrise. Of course we only saw the colorful clouds painted by the most creative artist in the whole wide world. They were pink, orange, purple, red, gold and grey. Just imagine the color combination being unfolded in front of your eyes. This was a real treat and we spent about 10 mins taking pictures when out of nowhere everything vanished as quickly as they arrived. In a way it was good as this change brought us back into the earth from heaven.

What an amazing sight

What an amazing sight

Mountains outlining the picture

Mountains outlining the picture

Burning Sky

Burning Sky

End of the show

End of the show

Little bit more

Little bit more

Summer hut

Summer hut

Newly built

Newly built

Getting ready

Getting ready

Lawrence of Arabia or Yasser Arafat?

Lawrence of Arabia or Yasser Arafat?

Running Coach

Running Coach

Our vehicle is over there

Our vehicle is over there

Going uphill

Going uphill

Uphill Journey

Ana was impatient to get to the summit so hurried us on but after a short time we realized that the oxygen levels are so thin and breathing was not so easy. In the end we settled for a slow but steady rhythm. First few hundred meters were through the tea estate before we entered the jungle. We soon arrived at the head of the jungle trail to find, to Prasa’s horror, leopard poo. There was so much and Prasa simply refused to go in front thereafter. We kept going feeling the chill but after a while we got used to the condition and kept going. There was a huge tree fallen across the path and an earth slip too. From there onwards, it was a steady climb. The path had gotten wider and due to the dry conditions, only a handful of leeches disturbed us. If you are doing this in the wet season, leech protection would be a must. We climbed for nearly two hours taking regular 15-60 second breaks. Sometimes they got dragged into minutes.

Our first target was the Sandagalathenna, a place set amid the forest but clear of any trees,  maybe the size of couple of volleyball courts. Anyone hiking via Rajamale stop here to rest and it’s an ideal camping site. However thanks to our reckless and destructive travelers camping here is not allowed now. Just imagine being here on a full moon Poya day admiring the majestic Sri Pada. Back to the four hikers laboring uphill panting like hunting dogs. We soon reached a somewhat flat area with a small rocky surface. Lowering our backpacks onto the ground we breathed a sigh of relief and looking in front saw the holy peak through the trees. It was simply breathtaking and looking closer thanks to the zoom capability, we could see the people coming down after the morning rituals. We rested about 10 mins while Atha making Jeewani for dehydration. The trick is to sip it before you get dehydrated or cramps paralyze you. After a couple of mouthfuls of them, we resumed our journey with renewed energy and courage. The sight of Sri Pada revived our bodies and our goal. Atha and Prasa had been on this trail before about a year and half ago. It’d been in wet conditions and they had been relentlessly attacked by the leeches. They further claimed the path had got wider and we saw the trees had been cut off using chainsaws not so long ago.

Had the treasure hunters been here with the blessings of the powers that be? The path was largely bordered by bamboo and Nelu, favorite snacks of the jumbos. Unfortunately many of them, especially the tuskers had paid with their lives for the greediness of the human kind. The water streams were dried out but we saw one about a km before Sandagalathenna. Around 9.30am, we came out to the open area of Sandagalathenna. It’s a rocky surface with a few patches of grass and the border consisting mainly of bamboo. There were a couple of Buddhist flags put up on sticks and they were flying in the air as if saluting the gorgeous looking Sri Pada. There wasn’t a hint of mist or clouds and we had this unbelievably rich color picture in front of us. This sure is heaven, the grey and green pointed peak set against a shiny blue sky dotted with a few milky white clouds. Below us were surrounded by the light green bamboo and plants. The ground was a mixture of sunburned grass and deep black rocky platform. Against all this stood four mesmerized hikers staring up at the sacred mountain with wide eyes and open mouths. A couple of birds chirped in the background and apart from that no other sound came. We were scared even to move a muscle not wanting to disturb the peacefulness of the place.

Entering the jungle path

Entering the jungle path

Leopard poo

Leopard poo

Fully eco friendly

Fully eco friendly

Through the thick bushes

Through the thick bushes

First of many breaks

First of many breaks

Golly!

Golly!

Bending the backs

Bending the backs

Prasa leading the way

Prasa leading the way

Much needed break, see the turn off around the fallen tree

Much needed break, see the turn off around the fallen tree

Tree cover from the sun

Tree cover from the sun

Uneven ground

Uneven ground

"Is there more to go?" Ana wondering out loud

“Is there more to go?” Ana wondering out loud

Clear blue sky through the trees

Clear blue sky through the trees

First glimpse

First glimpse

Typical Yasser Arafat symbol

Typical Yasser Arafat symbol

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

We gotta get there

We gotta get there

Mini Sandagalathenna, a tiny space before the Sandagalathenna

Mini Sandagalathenna, a tiny space before the Sandagalathenna

Making patterns

Making patterns

Bamboo border

Bamboo border

More garbage bins

More garbage bins

More of them

More of them

Door to heaven

Door to heaven

Blooming

Blooming

Dead tree art

Dead tree art

Dew

Dew

Just lost for words

Just lost for words

I don't know what to say

I don’t know what to say

Here we are at Sandagalathenna

Here we are at Sandagalathenna

Flying in the wind

Flying in the wind

Heaven on earth

Heaven on earth

He couldn't have been happier, see the million dollar smile

He couldn’t have been happier, see the million dollar smile

Posing

Posing

Time to get going

Time to get going

We had a biscuit and some more Jeewani. Sun was up and gearing up for a fiery noon. Thankfully the path apart from Sandagalathenna was nicely shaded by the trees making it a treat for not only the body, but also the mind. We cut our break short and got underway. I had my time clock set inside the brain counting off the minutes. There were deadlines to meet but I kept them all closer to my heart not wanting to make others panicky should we got behind the schedule. Ana, as usual, a systematic person, was keeping a close eye on the time and passed on the remarks but I was unmoved. My target was to take him to the summit, that was all that mattered. The way got narrower and steeper as we went on. Sri Pada kept looking at us waving her arms at us encouragingly. She got bigger and prettier as we closed in. After another hour or so we came to a height from where we could clearly see the Maussakelle reservoir below and miles beyond. Maskeliya town and many hills were there in the distant while a mist appeared to the left. Further up we got the first glimpse of Peace Pagoda below at Gangulthenna. Not a week before we saw the Peace Pagoda in Walapane on our way to the second highest waterfall in Sri Lanka, Kurundu Oya Ella.

Soon we knew that we were within touching distance of the Mahagiridamba or the final part of the Sri Pada. Mahagiridamba is roughly consisted of one thousand steps set in the steepest part before the peak. Rajamale trail joins the Hatton route at the Mahagiridamba saving many steps below and the open path that pilgrims have to take being scorched, if done in daytime, by the sun. That is the main reason why most people opt to hike either in the evening or night. It’ll also give them the opportunity to witness the sunrise as well. If you are wondering how we knew that we were close to the steps, well it was the smell. Not a very good one though, it was the stinking smell of human excrement and urine. Many so called pilgrims disgorge themselves at the entrance to the Rajamale trail thinking it is a natural toilet even though there are toilets built along the Hatton route at decent intervals. It’s a real pity that people don’t understand the value of keeping places, especially such sacred ones, nice and clean. Not only that we witnessed so much thrown food either side of the route as well. It was such an unpleasant sight and the smell coming from rotten garbage destroyed the beauty of the place. To make matters worse there’s plenty of polythene, such as biscuit wrappers, toffee wrappers, soft drink bottles, etc. The impact on the virgin rain forests is so great that at this rate we will have nothing but plastic-filled deserts. Therefore may I take this opportunity to request from everyone who visits this sacred place to try and help keep the environment clean please?

Back in the jungle

Back in the jungle

Flowers

Flowers

Shady path

Shady path

Kept up with us

Kept up with us

Break

Break

Contrast

Contrast

More

More

Couldn't get enough of

Couldn’t get enough of

Dead but artistic

Dead but artistic

Sniper on the path

Sniper on the path

Ooops

Ooops

Look at the spikes

Look at the spikes

Never ending scenery

Never ending scenery

Path narrowing down

Path narrowing down

Towards Yaka Andu Ella

Towards Yaka Andu Ella

Maussakelle

Maussakelle

Hmmm

Hmmm

Had to keep topping up

Had to keep topping up

Narrow and uneven

Narrow and uneven

Close up

Close up

There's the Peace Pagoda

There’s the Peace Pagoda

Zoomed

Zoomed

Just before the trail

Just before the trail

Final push

Final push

My internal clock chimed saying that another milestone reached. We were now almost at touching distance of the sacred mountain. However, the trick is not to get overly excited or when behind schedule not to get demotivated either. As Lord Buddha preached, take the middle path. We just kept it nice and easy, slow but steady. Atha and Prasa kept pushing ahead of Ana and me. We two kept it simple taking frequent but very tiny breaks every fifty steps or so. About midway through Ana suggested a cup of plain tea and we sat on a bench waiting for one at one of the shops. The sugary and watery lukewarm plain tea did very little to revive us and we got going. The final shop came and we rested our feet. Couple of people were haggling over the price of lotus flowers with the shop owner. They were going three for fifty rupees but they felt they were being cheated. We had no problem and got up for the final push. As we were taking the turn, there was the Ehala Kanuwa where especially kids and young ones paste a mixture of lime on a wooden pillar made of a real Ehala Tree. Moving on,  just below the Bhagawa Cave, the forest had been cleared and a blue tin structure had been built to cater for a Dansala (a typical Sri Lankan tradition, giving out food for free to the people during Vesak & Poson Poya days). The garbage container was overflowing with rotting left over food and polythene covers. Why on earth do something as good as this if you can’t or don’t take the trouble to remove the garbage? You are not going to be blessed or merited just because you give out food for free while destroying the environment.

We then reached the Bhagawa Cave which in the good old days was used by the pilgrims as a shelter when all the structures were not there especially on the top. Now the forest patch and the creepers have been cleared exposing the stone scriptures and the picture of King Nishshankamalla carved next to them. How practical and sensible it was to clear the area around is something very debatable. How good it was when the cave did look like one covered by the lush greenery? We then took the last set of steps to the summit. Up on the lower part of the peak were Atha and Prasa smiling down at us feeling really happy that we managed to get there in the end. We kept calling Ana “Dandu Kodu” as this was his first time to the sacred mountain. Usually the young is called “Kiri Kodu” when they do this for the first time and for the old  the term is “Dandu Kodu”. Kiri (milk in English) is fresh and new so that is used for the young. Dandu (sticks in English) is used to reflect on the experience and age thus using it for the old. So Dandu Kodu Ana accompanied by the rest of the team went up to the extreme summit leaving our baggage, shoes and caps as it was the custom.

It was not at all busy and unlike other times, we had the whole of the summit pretty much to ourselves despite this being a Sunday. We went and Ana rang the bell once to announce his first attempt at the mountain. Hopefully there’ll be another time for us to take him to the summit via a different route. Then, we climbed the short flight of stairs to where we worship the sacred footprint of Lord Buddha. There was a police officer and an army soldier there on guard but no one else. When busy you hardly get to come near the place let alone worship it but Mother Nature had different plans for us. Kneeling on the rocky flow in front of the footprint that is not visible to the pilgrims as it is covered for protection, was a feeling every human being must experience at least once in their lifetime. Even the wind was so mild and we were helped by the soldiers.

We were lucky to have had the place for us and touched the rock under which lies the sacred footprint of Lord Buddha. Atha and Prasa had worshipped before us and Ana followed me doing the rituals. Then we walked around seeing the huge bell placed on the top (do we really need that big a bell taking so much space of the already cramped summit is another debating thing) and the lamp below. After half hour or so, we decided to make it back. We (Ana & Me) arrived at the top at 12.05pm (little over 5.5 hours later, nearly half hour earlier than I had planned in my mental clock) and started our descend just after 12.30pm.

Here we are at the beginning of Mahagiridambaya

Here we are at the beginning of Mahagiridambaya

The notice at the foot

The notice at the foot

Feeding on the rotten food

Feeding on the rotten food

They're bound to die of food poisoning

They’re bound to die of food poisoning

Ready for the last bit

Ready for the last bit

Distant views

Distant views

Next generation on the up

Next generation on the up

More breaks,

More breaks,

Colorful

Colorful

Two generations met on the way up

Two generations met on the way up

They keep coming back

They keep coming back

Dead moth?

Dead moth?

Nope very much alive

Nope very much alive

Hard going

Hard going

Just before the last set of steps

Just before the last set of steps

Ehala Kanuwa

Ehala Kanuwa

Ana the Banana Man

Ana the Banana Man

Bhagawa Cave

Bhagawa Cave

King Nishshankamalla

King Nishshankamalla

Devoid of any vegetation now

Devoid of any vegetation now

Towards Maskeliya and beyond

Towards Maskeliya and beyond

Sandagalathenna in the middle

Sandagalathenna in the middle

We're here

We’re here

Everyone comes with a purpose

Everyone comes with a purpose

Watching

Watching

He too

He too

New Bell

New Bell

More additions

More additions

Burning throughout

Burning throughout

Cramped space

Cramped space

The Peak of the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

The Peak of the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

Downhill Journey

As we were coming down, a thick cloud of mist appeared enveloping the entire area. We could only see the steps for about 20m. This remained all along our return journey, giving us the protection from the sun. We made good time and got to the path in no time. About a km into the trail we stopped for a sandwich.

Arriving at Sandagalathenna around 1.30pm we stopped for a break. Looking back, there wasn’t a hint of the Sri Pada mountain. She was fully covered by the fog and we hit the trail once again. The last couple of kms turned out to be very challenging and exhausting. The path was so steep, unlike going up, the downhill journey tested our already battered limbs to the almost breaking point. After what felt like an eternity, we came out of the forest, but in fact it had only been two hours since Sandagalathenna.

Let's go

Let’s go

Mist coming thick and fast

Mist coming thick and fast

The path getting foggy

The path getting foggy

Back on the trail

Back on the trail

Enjoying home-made sandwiches

Enjoying home-made sandwiches

Obstacles

Obstacles

Getting covered

Getting covered

Dead Nelu plants to the left

Dead Nelu plants to the left

More

More

Silhouette of the bird

Silhouette of the bird

Back at Sandagalathenna

Back at Sandagalathenna

Tiny couple

Tiny couple

Final stretch

Final stretch

One of my favorite things to photograph

One of my favorite things to photograph

Note the shopping bag on Prasa's hip. He kept collecting all the polythene and plastic stuff all the way

Note the shopping bag on Prasa’s hip. He kept collecting all the polythene and plastic stuff all the way

Dead but life inside

Dead but life inside

Mini Sandagalathenna

Mini Sandagalathenna

Dusty Mushroom

Dusty Mushroom

Steep downhill

Steep downhill

Thick ones

Thick ones

Beautiful

Beautiful

Maintained well

Maintained well

Towards our destination

Towards our destination

Prasa with the collected plastic things, note even a rubber slipper was found

Prasa with the collected plastic things, note even a rubber slipper was found

Breaking News!

Breaking News!

Trail Head

Trail Head

By 3.30pm we came to the vehicle and rested our feet and bodies while making phone calls. Mobile reception was good here. We then arrived at the fishing hut and went for another cool dip in the river.

While the chill was getting unbearable we spent the rest of the evening reflecting on the climb. The dinner was served around 7.30pm and we hit the sack immediately after as our plan was to leave early the following morning.

Towards Hut 1

Towards Hut 1

The best out of all

The best out of all

Front view with Baththulu Oya in front

Front view with Baththulu Oya in front

Very nice

Very nice

Low water levels

Low water levels

Tiny ones

Tiny ones

Yawning monkey back again

Yawning monkey back again

Day 03

As usual despite the cold weather, which dropped below 12 degrees Celsius, we were up by 4am and started our return journey. After a hearty breakfast we bid farewell to John, our caretaker and the holy mountain that was now nicely visible. Driving along the estate road was a test but Ana had very little trouble. We arrived at the Moray estate summer hut with the view of Maussakelle reservoir as the sun was coming to office. The Gartmore falls looked spectacular and the two long thin lines of upper cascades got the first rays of the day. After a short picture journey we left for Colombo.

Sensational, ain't it?

Sensational, ain’t it?

Silhouette of the mountain

Silhouette of the mountain

Gartmore Falls

Gartmore Falls

Summer hut at the view point

Summer hut at the view point

Against the sunrise

Against the sunrise

Moussakelle

Moussakelle

Moray Tea Factory, the concrete winding road leads to Peak Field Estate and falls

Moray Tea Factory, the concrete winding road leads to Peak Field Estate and falls

Perfect ending...

Perfect ending…

Well folks that’s about it and this was a journey that will be in our hearts for the rest of our lives. Every bit of it we enjoyed thoroughly while Mother Nature looked after us as if a mother protecting her kids.

Just for you to get an idea, I’ve posted some pictures of the cabins at Fishing Hut. Unfortunately, there are no indoor pictures of No. 1 & 2, but the exterior will help you get an idea. I’d recommend them according to the numbers from 1 to 4. It all depends on however the number of people and your budget. For detailed information check out the link I’ve posted given on the notes.

I guess I’ve taken up so much of your time but hope it was worth the trouble.

With this, I’ve reached the sacred mountain via three routes and got another three remaining unless someone finds some more paths.

Do try and visit Sri Pada via Rajamale trail as well if you haven’t already done so.

So, time for me to say goodbye. I’ll see with the next adventurous fairy tale.

Until then, keep traveling and be safe.

Take care!

Sri…


Daring Mission to the Most Scared Mountain – Sri Pada (Via Maliboda Trail)

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Year and Month 15-16 Feb 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Dodam and Me
Accommodation Uda Maluwa (Summit of Sri Pada)
Transport By Bus, Tuk-Tuk and on Foot
Activities Pilgrimage, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent but was extremely cold at the summit.
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Deraniyagala->Uda Maliboda->Sri Pada via Maliboda Trail->Get down via Hatton Route->Del Housie->Hatton->Avissawella->Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • First bus to Deraniyagala leaves Avissawella at 6am so be there before then.
  • First Bus to Uda Maliboda leaves Deraniyagala at 7.30am, might change slightly so better to get there early. The 6am Deraniyagala bus from Avissawella should reach Deraniyagala by 7.15am.
  • Deraniyagala-Uda Maliboda Road is in extremely terrible condition, especially the stretch after Pothdenikanda. Avoid doing that in a car.
  • Be careful when you rent tuk-tuks from Uda Maliboda to go to the Sri Pada Trail. Make sure you agree on a fee before hop in.
  • Useful contacts in Uda Maliboda. Yasawardhane Mama (036-5678571, 0710-736960) for help and guidance // Shanthasiri (0729-930915) for meals, accommodation and transport (tuk-tuk).
  • Refer to the Lakdasun Trail Guide here.
  • Avoid doing this in rainy season, in the early or late hours, especially at night. Ideal time to cross the jungle would be sometime between 8.00am and 4.00pm.
  • Take extreme care not to tamper with the virgin forest and leave anything behind.
  • Don’t need to carry a lot of water; just a single bottle will do as there are a lot of streams to drink from.
  • Stay silent inside the forest, don’t make noises and disturb the tranquility.
  • Be cautious as this is one of the major roaming grounds of the jumbos. So far nobody has come to any harm from them but take precautions.
  • Accommodation options at Uda Maluwa (Summit) are very limited and first-come-first-served basis. If it’s a busy time such as a weekend or a holiday, better to settle at Gal Wangediya or Andiyamalathenna.
  • Carry meals and some snacks with you.
  • Observe the good behavior and remember you’re doing a pilgrimage not a fun trip.
  • Try to remain vegetarian at least during the journey.
  • Leech repellent is highly recommended.
  • Help save the nature.
  • Check out my previous journey via Rajamale Trail here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We all get these impulsive thoughts of doing things out of blue moon every now and then. Something like that happened when we visited Eli Hatha deep inside the Sri Pada Forest Reserve off Uda Maliboda in the first week of February. That journey, one of the dreams of Hari, turned out to be a great success, probably the best ever. During this journey I kept thinking of visiting the Most Sacred Mountain, Sri Pada  via Uda Maliboda trail, one of the six known paths to the summit.

I was longing for it by the time we returned from Eli Hatha and didn’t wanna do anything else but that. So when I presented the thought to Dodam, my mate for the Beloved Lakegala, he seconded it with no second thoughts. So we fixed it for the 15 & 16 Feb. Thanks to Hari, I got the contact number of Yasawardhane mama, a real nature-loving gentleman who is very friendly, humble and helpful. When I called him to check the status of weather conditions and the trail, he gladly offered to help us. I, being the cautious type, asked if he could find a guide for us at least till we reach the Kuruwita trail but he said that there was no way we could go wrong yet promised to get someone at least for a part of the journey.

Then I called Shanthasiri, our host during the Eli Hatha journey, to get our meals fixed. He agreed to provide us with breakfast and lunch packets. So it was all set within a very short period and after a couple of phone calls. As usual, the waiting game began and I kept looking at the calendar urging it to move faster but it just stared blankly at me.

Day 01

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, the day arrived and I met Dodam in Avissawella around 5.45am intending to catch the first bus to Deraniyagala. It was parked and waiting when we got in an on the dot of 6am, we left for Deraniyagala. The road to Deraniyagala is still under construction and in terrible state as a result.

It’d be a nightmare if you travel in the day time as it’s full of dust. The bus kept going tackling the road and the road closer to Deraniyagala is nearly complete. We got to Deraniyagala around 7.15am went looking for the Uda Maliboda bus. Well, not many people are aware of it as we had to go on asking from many people yet not getting a proper answer. Some said there is no Uda Maliboda bus, some simply said that they didn’t know about a Uda Maliboda bus, some went on to say it goes only up to Maliboda but not to Uda Maliboda due to extremely bad road and others said it goes at 1.30pm. Golly, that’s the last thing we wanted. Finally I called both Yasaeardhane mama and Shanthasiri to inform about our arrival and to check on the bus. They said that there was one around 7.30am and we decided to wait at the bus stop.

Around 7.30 there came a bus with a board Maliboda-Deraniyagala. “Ok, we’re going to have to hire a tuk-tuk after all”, I told Dodam wondering how much it’d cost. Finally we spoke to the driver who confirmed it was going all the way to Uda Maliboda. What a relief it felt and we hurriedly went to a nearby shop and bought some dry rations such as dates, cheese and biscuits for the journey. Then we settled in for the driver and conductor to come in when they did it was past 7.45am. We took off, well not like a Boeing 747, but closer. The road up to Pothdenikanda is in decent condition and the real nightmare starts afterwards.

There is hardly any bit of road in decent condition. According to the villagers, it’s not been repaired for the past two decades, yeah, you heard it right the first time, not in the last twenty years. The lorries and tractors of the tea estate keep breaking it beyond use. It’s no wonder anyone not wanting to go there in their own vehicle. We were very much surprised to see the Deraniyagala depot had opted to operate the bus service despite them breaking down every now and then. That is the lifeline of those people in Maliboda and Uda Maliboda. One alternative route is to go to Kuruwita and take the Erathna road. There is a road connecting Erathna to Maliboda which is surprisingly in very good condition. However it won’t avoid the worst part of the Maliboda and Uda Maliboda stretch. Mainly people in the area using either motor bikes or tuk-tuks that take real beatings from driven along these pot-holed roads.

We felt like being rocked in a boat amid a rough sea, waves pounding either side rocking the bus from side to side. Finally we came to Uda Maliboda around 9am. There was a delay getting our breakfast and lunch packets that cost us precious half hour or so. One piece of advice for you when hiring tuk-tuks from Uda Maliboda. Always, tell them exactly where you wanna go and ask for the fee. If not you would end up having to pay cut throat prices. It was nearly 10am when we reached Yasawardhane mama’s place who was waiting for us. He invited for a cuppa tea but as the time was getting flown away, we declined politely. He then joined us to go to the trail head. It starts from one of his relatives house, Piyadasa mama. When we get there he was waiting for us. At the request of Yasawardhane mama, he agreed to come with us for a short distance so that we could get a feel of the trail.

Yasawardhane mama is my kinda person who vehemently opposed to the mini hydro power plants which kill those beautiful waterfalls under the false banner, development. In his own words “you can always build a power plant, but not a waterfall”. I couldn’t agree more. According to him, the real development comes from protecting our natural resources such as virgin forests and waterfalls that are real attractions for the tourists. He’s very passionate about the Eli Hatha and Maliboda trail. He keeps referring to the Eli Hatha as a world heritage and very much against the power plant that kills the first two falls. Unfortunately our voices are not heard by the powers that be or even if they did, they appear to be deaf. Yasawardhane mama is a member of the Deraniyagala Pradeshiya Sabha and doesn’t draw his salary giving it to the charity to improve the facilities of the kids’ education. This country nowadays needs many people like these, just wishful thinking.

From left: Nimal, Piyadasa Mama (our guide), Me and Yasawardhane Mama

From left: Nimal, Piyadasa Mama (our guide), Me and Yasawardhane Mama

Uda Maliboda to Kuru Ganga (6.9km – 4.5 hours)

Finally with his blessings, we started our journey with Piyadasa mama. The trail is clearly visible and we had to cross the Modara river or Sithawaka river at first and the trail goes steadily uphill. The track is in the middle of the virgin forest reserve of Sri Pada. There were plenty of Walla Patta plants cut and destroyed by the ignorant locals with the help of greedy outsiders in the hope of getting rich the easy way. The destruction is enormous and with that many other endemic species of plants and animals must have come under great dangers. These kinda virgin forests are destroyed by people trying to find things like that and the end result is we’d be heading for a desert. It’s nice and cool inside the jungle. Save for a few crickets, hardly a sound came. Even our footsteps didn’t make any noise. It’d been raining steadily in the evenings for the past few days and the ground was wet paving the way for the leeches.

Morning rays filtered through the thick tree cover making patterns. We didn’t feel the ferocity of the sun thanks to them and went on a slow but steady pace. Leeches kept coming after us but not many succeeded in grabbing at our feet. Dodam had brought a Salon Pas as a leech repellent and it did a reasonable job of keeping them at bay. However, nothing like the Alum (Aluminum Sulfate) which is by far the best of leech repellents I’ve come across. It wouldn’t be a great feeling to come this way in the rains. The leeches would have you at their mercy for 8km and by the time you get out of the forest, if you ever do, there wouldn’t be nothing much left. So avoid it at all costs in the rains, not only because of leeches, but also the flash floods. The path crosses hundreds of streams and at places it goes along streams themselves. As Yasawardhane mama had said, the trail was easy to make out and had been cleared recently. There were traces of human touch as we saw quite a number of toffee, chewing gum and biscuit wrappers left behind carelessly by those clumsy travelers along with couple of water bottles too. After an hour of steady hiking brought us to a larger stream where we stopped for breakfast.

Entering the reserve

Entering the reserve

Modara Ganga aka Seethawaka Upper River

Modara Ganga aka Seethawaka Upper River

Piyadasa mama explaining how to plant a Pus Tree out of a seed to Dodam

Piyadasa mama explaining how to plant a Pus Tree out of a seed to Dodam

Morning rays penetrating the forest

Morning rays penetrating the forest

On the prowl

On the prowl

The path is narrow and bordered by the thick forest

The path is narrow and bordered by the thick forest

Plenty of these

Plenty of these

One of my favorite things to photograph

One of my favorite things to photograph

Clear path

Clear path

Salon Pas treatment for leeches

Salon Pas treatment for leeches

Wana Raja, commonly found in Sri Pada Reserve

Wana Raja, commonly found in Sri Pada Reserve

Is the tree holding the rock boulder?

Is the tree holding the rock boulder?

Dummala Tree

Dummala Tree

Like silicone

Like silicone

Continously going up and down

Continously going up and down

Another of my favorites

Another of my favorites

Piyadasa Mama before bidding us farewell

Piyadasa Mama before bidding us farewell

According to Piyadasa mama, we’d come one mile (1.6km) and we unwrapped our breakfast of Rice with Polos and Dhal, fully vegetarian. I would go to great pains to remain vegetarian especially when I visit the Sacred Mountain. It’s always advisable not to consume any meats inside a jungle as it might attract the wild animals. You might disagree with me but I’ve experienced it first-hand it does pay dividends to be vegetarian on journeys like these. After the breakfast we parted company of Piyadasa mama, who had to get back to his day’s chores. He said if he was informed well in advance he’d have been able to accompany us to the summit as he’d not been there this season. We were on our own, just two curious hikers defying the wild and trying to reach the most sacred mountain in the world hoping to worship the footprint of one of the greatest philosophers who had walked on this earth. We had closer to six and half kms to tackle in the thick jungle that is frequented by the wild elephants. However so far no harm had come to anyone from them proving even those wild animals understand the sacred pilgrimages to the holy mountain.

The path is far from even, you gotta keep your head down and eyes peeled to avoid falling down. There are many obstacles right throughout such as roots, rocks, creepers and fallen trees blocking the path. The slightest mistake will leave you with a sprained ankle which will jeopardize the whole journey. That is one disadvantage when traveling small groups. You gotta stay focused all along and not let your guard down. I always prefer to travel in small groups and it helps to save time and make decisions easy. The climb became steeper and slowed our pace. We had the whole forest to ourselves and millions of trees looking from all directions curiously at us. The rays filtering through got fiercer but didn’t bother us much. There were many streams flowing every now and then with cool and tasty water. Thanks to them we didn’t have to carry a lot of water that eased our load considerably. We had very little sense of the distance covered. It’s hard to gauge it, if you don’t have the equipment, especially when you’re inside a jungle. It doesn’t help to panic but to keep to the track and go on without making a lot of noise.

The Kuru Ganga seemed far away and couple of times we got deceived having heard water gushing down but when reached it turned out to be another of those streams. Things got scarier when we saw the first of elephant dung along the path. Just imagine being deep inside a forest covered all around with trees and finding jumbo poo which are not too old. We were rattled alright but forced ourselves to remain calm and keep going. Afterwards there were many of them scattered across the path, couple of times we saw what seemed to be a jumbo probably suffering from loose motion had left a long trail of poo. Kuru Ganga didn’t come anywhere near no matter how far we went. Piyadasa mama warned that when going for the first time one would feel the distance and we certainly did. The leeches kept crawling towards us hoping to have some juicy meal. Thankfully their attacks were minimal thanks to the dry weather from the previous day. The effects of Dodam’s Salon Pas were wearing out allowing leeches to grab at our feet rather easily.

Nelu and Bamboo (favorite meals of the jumbos) bordered the path increasing our fears. There were birds and butterflies flying around us but too fast to capture them on our lenses. Some of the pics were blurred and out of focus probably due to shaking hands. We came across a couple of rocky surfaces that would make ideal camping sites. However, with roaming jumbos, it would mean a helluva adventure. I’d not recommend it unless there is nothing else to do. So be mindful to do this trail within the daylight. Ideal timings would be between 8am and 4pm. Too early you would probably have a difficulty with mist and cold. Too late, it’s the light and the jumbos you have to be careful about, and the threat of rains. So timing is crucial for the journey. So far the path was pretty straight forward and no confusing trails branching off. However, about a mile before the Kuru Ganga, we came to a Y junction with the path dividing into two.

The left side branch goes slightly uphill while the right (rather straight one) goes downhill. We were in a dilemma coz we didn’t expect anything like this. We decided to check both and Dodam went along the right hand path for a bit and found a toffee wrapper. There were even logs used to make the path. However I wanted to check the left one too just to be on the safe side. After a few meters it branched once again into two and both of them were just ordinary animal trails. So you gotta take the right hand downhill path. I even broke a small tree and put it as an indicator for the future travelers. I’d never been happier to see a toffee wrapper in my life before but I don’t think it’d justify leaving them behind as they surely weren’t meant to guide others. From here it was a continuous downhill path and we increased our pace. Elephant poo was no more and we heard a distant roar of the water and it sounded large enough to be the river. At last we arrived at the mostly sought river of the day, Kuru Ganga.

Shining

Shining

Rocky door frame

Rocky door frame

Entering into the jungle fortress

Entering into the jungle fortress

Hhmm

Hhmm

Leeches were there but not many

Leeches were there but not many

Joe Root?

Joe Root?

Wish they were edible

Wish they were edible

More Roots

More Roots

Plenty of streams to cross and it'd be a nightmare to do it in the rains

Plenty of streams to cross and it’d be a nightmare to do it in the rains

One person can go at a time

One person can go at a time

Well, just a beautiful leaf or maybe a flower

Well, just a beautiful leaf or maybe a flower

Mushroooooooooooms

Mushroooooooooooms

Hairy looking

Hairy looking

Poisonous Hondala

Poisonous Hondala

First of many Jumbo Poo

First of many Jumbo Poo

The path continuously went uphill

The path continuously went uphill

Only one we managed to capture

Only one we managed to capture

Jumbo suffering from loose motion

Jumbo suffering from loose motion

Keeping our eyes wide open

Keeping our eyes wide open

Many of them

Many of them

The path goes along these streams

The path goes along these streams

Freshly cut

Freshly cut

Never ending

Never ending

Ooops

Ooops

Just imagine trying to walk along them when the water levels are high

Just imagine trying to walk along them when the water levels are high

Some kinda orchid

Some kinda orchid

More mushrooms

More mushrooms

Few of open places like these, looks ideal for camping but very risky

Few of open places like these, looks ideal for camping but very risky

Where's this Kuru Ganga?

Where’s this Kuru Ganga?

Hundreds of them but only this I took

Hundreds of them but only this I took

Thick forest

Thick forest

Natural Spike in the middle

Natural Spike in the middle

Tiny bamboo, favorite meals for Jumbos

Tiny bamboo, favorite meals for Jumbos

The stream just before the Kuru Ganga

The stream just before the Kuru Ganga

Finally here we are

Finally here we are

Has to go uphill a bit

Has to go uphill a bit

Where we bathed

Where we bathed

Kuru Ganga to Erathna Trail (1.1km – 45 mins)

We reached Kuru Ganga just after 2.30pm, had taken 4.5 hours to tackle that 6.9km. In the rainy season, this would be a tricky place as it’s full of unexpected flash floods. As soon as you get out of the forest and reach the river, the trail won’t be there on the other side of the river as you would expect it to be. Now don’t get alarmed coz you haven’t come all this way for nothing. To find the trail you gotta go to the left or up river for about 50m. Not a lot but keep going along the river with your eyes peeled. You will find the path and it’s nothing difficult. We were warned about this before by Hari, Atha and Yasawardhane mama as well so we knew what to do. There were a couple of shopping bags hanging from tree branches to mark the paths.

We were relieved to finally have arrived at a key destination. Crossing the river was of no challenge as the water levels were very low. I felt exhausted both physically and mentally. The glistening water was inviting for us to take a cool dip and I gave myself to the temptation. Unloading our backpacks, we soon found ourselves in the cool water and felt all the tiredness wash away. The cool water revived our sweat-soaked bodies and a mild wind kept whirling around. Gosh, that was a heavenly feeling and we devoured our lunch of rice and curry. Even though we badly wanted to stay couple of hours simply lying down, the time the elephant factors were against it. So reluctantly, we got back on the trail just after 3pm hoping to emerge out of the forest before 4pm.

The bath and the meal gave us a big boost and with the renewed energy we increased our pace. The first couple of hundred meters was steep climbing that wore us out in no time. We knew it was only a matter of time before we reached the Erathna trail. After a while, we heard voices and listening carefully found out it was a group of people saying the typical poems like things on their way down.

“Ape Budun – Api Wenda,

E Ran Pathula – Api Wenda,

Perali Perali – Api Wenda,

Dedana Nama – Api Wenda”

“Kiri Koduth – Wendewwa,

Dandu Koduth – Wendewwa,

Kodu Sewoma – Wendewwa”

It’s really something to sing in unison. We finally got out of the trail and it’d taken close to three quarters of an hour to get there from the Kuru Ganga. Golly, what an extraordinary hike it turned out to be.

The path from the Kuru Ganga, note the shopping bags

The path from the Kuru Ganga, note the shopping bags

After a steep climb

After a steep climb

Three musketeers?

Three musketeers?

Flat terrain

Flat terrain

More

More

Blocked path

Blocked path

Just before meeting up with the Erathna Trail

Just before meeting up with the Erathna Trail

A sigh of relief, here's Kuruwita Trail

A sigh of relief, here’s Kuruwita Trail

Final Push from End of Maliboda Trail to the Summit along Erathna Trail (4km – 3.5 hours)

We were knackered, I admit but felt exhilarating too looking back our achievement. We started our hike now going continuously uphill but to be free from occasional leech attacks was a comforting feeling. Now the trail was wider and to our surprise there were quite a lot of people were coming down and going up. Coming Tue was a government holiday thus the increase in the number of people. We mingled with them and those who going down sang like this:

“Wadinna Yana – Me Nadeta,

Sumana Saman – Devi Pihitai”

And we going uphill returned:

“Wendala Bahina – Me Nadeta,

Sumana Saman – Devi Pihitai”

Some cheeky ones however felt like this:

“Ehema Kiwwa – E Nangita,

Pahala Kaden – Kopi Ekai”

It was real fun and made us forget our aching limbs. After a while we came to the Geththampana and it gave a panoramic view of the Sri Pada. The mist had covered the top as if waiting for the chief guest to arrive before unveiling the curtain. Well, here we are I thought out loud, it’s time you show us your beauty before the dark envelopes you, I kept pleading. We stopped for a quick cuppa lukewarm tea which helped to warm our bodies somewhat. The crowds kept rising and suddenly it was like the Hatton route.

We were planning to spend the night at the summit underneath the sacred footprint, one of my long time dreams. Looking at the number of people, I suddenly felt depressed as there was very little room at the summit for the pilgrims to stay, especially away from bone-chilling winds. It only made our pace quicken but Dodam, who’d been largely out of touch all of a sudden started to struggle. Nevertheless we managed to overtake quite a lot of people on the way increasing our chances. The evening light was beginning to fade yet compared to the ordinary days, it was surprisingly better. Seeing Gal Wangediya, where Sri Palabaddala trail joins Erathna in the distance, brought a smile on Dodam’s face. Yeah, we were making good progress.

The path is so much eroded exposing the rocks

The path is so much eroded exposing the rocks

Dodam was surprisingly struggling big time

Dodam was surprisingly struggling big time

Kunu Diya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya and Bathalegala

Kunu Diya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya and Bathalegala

Steady climb

Steady climb

They were going downhill

They were going downhill

Very difficult to get a pic without people

Very difficult to get a pic without people

The power lines

The power lines

Animal trails

Animal trails

Sri Pada is up there

Sri Pada is up there

He was making a phone call informing his relatives about the achievement

He was making a phone call informing his relatives about the achievement

Slippery rocks

Slippery rocks

Kunu Diya Pawwa tall as ever

Kunu Diya Pawwa tall as ever

Colorful

Colorful

Geththampana where we stopped for a cuppa tea

Geththampana where we stopped for a cuppa tea

Back on trail

Back on trail

Through the trees

Through the trees

Flat areas like this were a big bonus

Flat areas like this were a big bonus

Majestic

Majestic

Geththampana taken from the path uphill

Geththampana taken from the path uphill

Mountains in the dusk

Mountains in the dusk

Not sure what but looks like a miniature Wal Del

Not sure what but looks like a miniature Wal Del

Colorful

Colorful

Jutting out rocks made it hard for the bones

Jutting out rocks made it hard for the bones

Dead tree arts

Dead tree arts

Sri Pada still hiding

Sri Pada still hiding

Galwangediya

Galwangediya

Dodam was laughing from ear to ear

Dodam was laughing from ear to ear

Most of the people rested their tired feet there but we kept going coz we were a team with a mission. We couldn’t rest until we reached our goal even though it’d be a failure we had to give our best shot to avoid being regretful later. We pushed on while the sun started his descend behind us beyond the Kunudiya Pawwa. We felt the warm rays on our backs but the trees either side offered comforting shade. Having slaved a lot we arrived at yet another milestone, Andiyamalathenna around 6pm. The light was still great and I asked Dodam if we should push on to the top or call it a day here and bunk down for the night. He was ready to push on despite the risk of us having to climb down once again if there was no space at the summit. We decided to give it a go and kept going.

It was time to unveil the curtain and show us the gorgeous summit. The Mother Nature obliged and the mist was lifted off revealing the amazing beauty of this wonderful mountain. Fading sun stopped in mid-way as if not wanting to leave for the day missing all the beautiful scenery unfolding. Copper colored rays fell on the summit while the sky turned into a deep blue. The leaves covering the top of the mountain glistened and waved at us. A cool breeze blew across making us tighten the muscles and the sky turned into a deep orange and the last rays of the day reflected on the clouds turning them into bright orange, pink and purple. We were in heaven, surely this was heaven, I kept staring at the magical power of the Mother Nature. “Hey, let’s go, it’s getting late”, Dodam brought me back to the earth out of my reverie.

This was my sixth visit to the holy mountain. Three times I’ve climbed via Hatton trail and once each via Sri Palabaddala, Rajamale and Uda Maliboda. There are only two more to complete the complete package. Gosh, I really want to do it as soon as possible. We kept up increasing the speed while the sun dipped behind the horizon reluctantly plunging us in darkness. As if on cue, the lights along the path were switched on creating that pearl necklace. The cold was getting unbearable but we didn’t wanna stop to wear the sweaters. So in the freezing cold, we climbed up while the mist came from all corners making us feel like we were floating in a milky sea. Finally, feeling numb but excited we reached the summit and without wasting a second rushed into the halls where people can stay for the night.

From Galwangediya

From Galwangediya

Found a kid finally

Found a kid finally

Sri Pada slowly unveiling

Sri Pada slowly unveiling

Almost

Almost

Buddha statue was being painted

Buddha statue was being painted

Reddish leaves

Reddish leaves

Dusk was setting in

Dusk was setting in

The concrete paved path

The concrete paved path

Fading sun

Fading sun

Orchids

Orchids

Galwangediya Ambalama and other structures

Galwangediya Ambalama and other structures

Managed to get this black eagle

Managed to get this black eagle

Reddish spots

Reddish spots

Royal blue sky

Royal blue sky

Dark red Nelu leaves

Dark red Nelu leaves

Very hard to capture these ones

Very hard to capture these ones

Setting sun illuminating the mountains

Setting sun illuminating the mountains

This one looks like the Horn of Africa

This one looks like the Horn of Africa

The moment of truth

The moment of truth

Simply gorgeous

Simply gorgeous

Closer

Closer

The summit

The summit

From Andiyamalathenna

From Andiyamalathenna

Tiny flowers

Tiny flowers

These railings are a great help

These railings are a great help

Wish we were at the summit

Wish we were at the summit

Final rays

Final rays

Clouds came from everywhere

Clouds came from everywhere

Galwangediya seen from above

Galwangediya seen from above

Being enveloped by the mist

Being enveloped by the mist

The last bit

The last bit

Remains of how our ancestors used to climb Sri Pada

Remains of how our ancestors used to climb Sri Pada

Must've been a nightmare

Must’ve been a nightmare

Good night!

Good night!

The time was just after 7pm and there were already people coming in and settling down for the night. The first had very little space so went to the second and bingo, we struck luck and found a better place to stay overnight. There was a family from Moratumulla who helped us settle down even offering a spare blanket to Dodam. They had been staying at the temple near the peace pagoda and climbed that day. When they heard of our trail, it surprised them to no end. We kept cracking jokes while shivering like skinless polar bears. I decided to take the chance to go have a wash. It was so cold and I had to cut it short and got back indoors and changed into more suitable attire. Leaving Dodam with the baggage I went up to the summit that was surprisingly empty and worshipped the sacred footprint in peace.

The inner peace you feel when you kneel down at the sacred footprint is hard to express. You gotta be there and feel it for yourself. I got back and sent Dodam to do the rituals. There were two foreigners settled down near us. They were very friendly but suffered from the cold more than us. I got into the sleeping bag, the savior of the day and settled down. However the cold and continuous shuffling of people coming and going, complaining about the cold, some girls crying hysterically clinging to their family members kept me up throughout the night. It was all mayhem and I saw people who had never seen or met before hugging and sleeping together in order to get some warmth.

The cement floor was so cold and the flimsy mats that were worn out didn’t help much. I saw people trying to cover themselves with plastic sheets that were next to useless. They kept moaning about, turning around, mumbling to themselves, and pampering the kids and this and that. Nothing seemed to work. I felt guilty being somewhat warmer than the rest. The winds picked up speed and kept hitting the walls and I felt sorry for the pilgrims who had no choice but to stay out waiting for the morning. Many people hung around the oil lamp getting some warmth. The hall got crowded with no space even to keep a foothold. The night wore on but very slowly as if mocking us. However nothing could deviate the peacefulness I felt being so close to the Lord Buddha’s footprint.

Crescent up in the sky

Crescent up in the sky

Shivering like skinless polar bears

Shivering like skinless polar bears

Huddling together

Huddling together

Day 02

Throughout the night people got up and started to get down not being able to bear the cold. More people came in to fill the vacuum but they too took leave. It was like a movie and we watched all this unraveling before us helplessly. Finally the dawn arrived, with it the cold was pushed back and the prospect of witnessing the sunrise came forward. Around 5am, most of the people were beginning to stir, with them we too followed suit. The summit was cramped with people and the security had a tough time controlling them. We got up and bid farewell to the family next to us and went down the Hatton route for about 100m before settling for the sunrise.

It was so packed with people trying to get a better view not giving a toss about the surrounding. We were forced to go further down, the announcements kept coming asking for the path to be cleared and let others either come up or go down. They all fell in deaf ears coz those who got a better position wouldn’t dream of giving it up. Number of foreigners kept increasing much more than the locals. Some of the people were still coming up timing their arrival to coincide with the sunrise but most of them were highly disappointed when they were stuck around the Bhagawa Cave. We were not in a better position either but had to be content with it. Wearing gloves limited the maneuverability of the fingers so I reluctantly removed them. Within seconds I didn’t feel a thing and taking pictures balancing at the edge of the path holding onto the iron railings were a real nightmare.

The sky just above the silhouettes of the mountain tops started to get colorful. There was a layer of red, orange and yellow above the outline of the mountain tips. It kept rising up widening in size spreading more colors across the sky. The crescent moon was so far up the sky. The whole sky was devoid of any cloud, none at all. Down below, in the distance Moussakelle looked placid while the forest was largely dark. The Rajamale trail was barely visible and just below the mountain tips, we could make out the Horton Plains-esque Gawaravila.

Towards Rathnapura, Balangoda and beyond were the milky mountains. There were millions of clouds bunched together covering the whole area only the dark tips of the mountains were visible. Marrow-chilling cold was forgotten, numbness in my fingers was no more and I was in a dreamland. Orange glow kept brightening and the crowds were getting impatient. Most of the people voiced their disappointments out loud as if the sun purposely kept them waiting. 6am came and went, still no sign of the lava-red ball that should be up and about.

Some of the people who could no longer wait or bear the cold started to leave reminding me of Indian cricket fans who have no patience to wait till the show is over. However majority of the crowd, very much like Sri Lankan cricket fans who don’t abandon their players come rain or sunshine, kept their composure and waited and waited then some more waited. The surroundings were now more or less fully lighted. Still sun refused to appear as if a 10-year old kid refusing to get up in the morning to go to school. “Isn’t the sun coming up today?”, I began to wonder. Even the NASA has given only 99% probability of sun rising and I was wondering if the 1% finally here.

Finally, closer to 6.30am, upper part of the lava circle appeared above the mountains. Most of the crowd cheered as if we won the world cup, they didn’t stop there and gave a big round of applause too. The older people chanted “Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!”. Within seconds the sun was fully up, unlike other days when he flirts with the clouds. Today there were no clouds and it must have been the reason for him to have been so reluctant to appear. We decided to get down amid the sea of people and reach Del Housie soon.

Here comes the painter

Here comes the painter

Silhouette of the mountain tops

Silhouette of the mountain tops

Maussakelle in the morning

Maussakelle in the morning

Clouds hanging onto the mountains

Clouds hanging onto the mountains

Orange hue

Orange hue

No sign of the sun yet

No sign of the sun yet

Packed crowd to witness the sunrise

Packed crowd to witness the sunrise

Some are going after waiting for ages

Some are going after waiting for ages

He's had enough and ready to come out

He’s had enough and ready to come out

There he is

There he is

Finally

Finally

Amazing sight but a couple of stray clouds would've have been grand

Amazing sight but a couple of stray clouds would’ve have been grand

Last bit of scenery

Last bit of scenery

Getting Down along Hatton Trail

We came to the first shop and had a cup of steaming coffee. It shot some warmth into our bodies. I could feel my fingers once again and the blood circulation got back to normal. Afterwards we tackled the Mahagiridamba and kept going at a brisk pace.

Geththampana, Rathu Ambalama and Seetha Gangula came but we didn’t stop for a break. The mountains were showing their beauty in the morning rays. We arrived at the Peace Pagoda just before 9am. Finally it’s seen a coat of paint and glistened in the sunlight. Yaka Andu Ella looked abysmal, just a pencil thin line of water falling along the rocky wall. Even a demon would have cried at the sight of this level of water.

While the vendors who must have had a late night trade were opening their shops once again, we reached Del Housie. The CTB bus that was next in line for departure all of a sudden changed its mind. Instead the conductor and the driver pushed us to a private bus that had just arrived from Hatton. I’m not implying they got up to any mischief. Same thing happened when we were going via Sri Palabaddala trail last year. It was good to know that CTB bus drivers and conductors are in good terms with their private counterparts.

Amazing sights

Amazing sights

I'm lost for words

I’m lost for words

Endless view

Endless view

Peace Pagoda below

Peace Pagoda below

Contrast

Contrast

Above the trees

Above the trees

This blue sky is only available when seen from up country

This blue sky is only available when seen from up country

Buddhist Flags

Buddhist Flags

We're making good progress

We’re making good progress

There comes the Sherpas of Sri Pada

There comes the Sherpas of Sri Pada

I just can't imagine their plight

I just can’t imagine their plight

Lights of the path

Lights of the path

Sri Pada now bathed in the sunlight

Sri Pada now bathed in the sunlight

Closer

Closer

Amazing view

Amazing view

Closer

Closer

Yaka Andu Ella, what a poor sight

Yaka Andu Ella, what a poor sight

Far away

Far away

Foreign couple we met

Foreign couple we met

The rocky mountain behind the Peace Pagoda

The rocky mountain behind the Peace Pagoda

What?

What?

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Many of them

Many of them

Parting shot

Parting shot

We reached Hatton closer to 11am. As usual the tug-of-war between the buses and passengers were in full force. It was so sad to see the pilgrims are being inconvenienced over and over again. Feeling depressed and angry we finally managed to get into a CTB bus and reached Colombo plenty of daylight to spare.

Finally, another dream of mine came through. It’s surprising how our focus and directions change so quickly. Last year, I was all over Meemure, well not quite but explored a decent chunk of the area. The icing on the cake was the Lakegala, that I still consider the pinnacle of my traveling career. This year it’s so far mainly been around the Most Sacred Mountain in the whole wide world. Hopefully, there will be more to come and if and when they do, you will be the first to know.

Hope you enjoyed my narration of one of the most difficult trails to the Sri Pada. I’m sure it must have taken a helluva lot of time. I hope it was worth the trouble.

Keep traveling and be safe. This is Sri signing off for the time being hoping to come back once again with another delightful fairy tale.

Sri…

Five peaks of knuckles (1862m)

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Year and Month April, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew 5 (Amila, Nishan, Dhammika, Krishani and myself)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Pajero
Activities Hiking / Scenery / Trekking / Photography
Weather Clear morning and misty afternoon
Route Colombo -> Wattegama -> Panwila -> Bambarella -> Kandy -> Mahiyanganaya -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Take 2L’s of water
    • Use Leech repellents
    • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
    • Don’t disturb wild life
    • No need of a guide
    • It took us 7.5hours for the whole hike
    • Its only 3.5Km from the trail head to the first peak
    • Keep an open eye on the weather (if it rains the hike is tough)
    • If you start early you could cover all 5 peaks
    • There is a 3way junction before climbing the first peak, if you take a right turn you could reach Thangappuwa / Alugallena
    • February is the ideal time but august is also fine
    • One could camp at the first peak but there is no water source, 4th peak has a lovely grass patch with a superb view which is the ideal camping site and there is a water source nearby
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The map - click to enlarge

The map – click to enlarge

It was Awurudu holidays and the weather was playing tricks on our minds but we didn’t want to let this holiday pass away without doing any hikes. There were two options it was either knuckles or sinharaja. So we decided go anywhere depending on the rain pattern. I was really motivated to do Knuckles after seen that Niroshan had covered all 5 peaks within a day and that was an inspiration for me (I’m sure you could read about that adventure in near future). So we started picking one by one from 3am onwards and after picking up Nishan from Miriswatta we had a small discussion regarding our destination for the day and since everyone was ok with the idea (despite a rain spike in the charts) we went ahead with hiking Knuckles. We reached Bamberella via Wattegama at around 9am and took the estate road to the trail head (need high ground clearance).

the famous five peaks

the famous five peaks

kirigalpoththa

kirigalpoththa

gombaniya

Gombaniya

getting ready to take off

getting ready to take off

On the way we did meet the guy who issued tickets and we bought 5 tickets for 200 bucks. When we started the hike it was close to 10am. After a 10 minute hike we reached the waterfall where we had String hoppers as breakfast. From here onwards it was a walk along an open area, this stretch was so dehydrating but the view towards Knuckles kept us going. At one point we crossed the stream which forms the waterfall at a lower point. This is actually the proper and last water stream until the 4th peak is reached. From here onwards we entered the forest trail and started ascending uphill. Few on and off breaks were compulsory because of the steep ascend. We came across a 3way junction where the Thangappuwa trail branched out towards the right. We took the left uphill trail. From this point onwards the trail got tough and our knees started knocking on our cheeks at some points. There were few open areas where we rested awhile enjoying the breathtaking scenery. After a tiring 2 hour hike we reached the first peak.

 trail head

trail head

knuckles falls

knuckles falls

the base

the base

 breakfast

breakfast

"Wal araliya"

“Wal araliya”

Kendrickia walkeri

Kendrickia walkeri

off we go

off we go

sunny path

sunny path

last stream

last stream

 towards Gombaniya & Yakunnge hela

towards Gombaniya & Yakunnge hela

our destination

our destination

 open areas

open areas

the path

the path

path changing consistently

path changing consistently

a common flower

a common flower

first view point

first view point

3way junction (take the left turn)

3way junction (take the left turn)

one of those breaks

one of those breaks

found everywhere on the mountain range

found everywhere on the mountain range

nelu

nelu

wow

wow

 our guide :-P

our guide :-P

found at 1800m

found at 1800m

 view towards cobets gap

view towards cobets gap

First peak had only a small view point(Window like) and there was a cleared area which was used for camping. After a brief break we took off towards the 2nd peak. Second peak seems to be the highest point with a rocky summit. There were members of a normal family who had come to visit the Knuckles range and seen them was something out of the norm. From the 2nd summit we took off towards the 3rd through a somewhat covered path. There were many leeches on the 3rd peak since it was bit marshy but they were not so vicious. From the 3rd we took off towards the forth and reached a bare land where a superb camping site could be found. If one wants to camp I would suggest this scenic and spacious location. There were two drinkable springs which were dug off by campers we did fill up our empty bottles from it. From 4th to the 5th there wasn’t a clear path but it was not difficult. If one wishes he could go along the peaks and reach Rilagala, Selvakanda and cross over to Kalupahana. Due to the mist we couldn’t appreciate Pitawala, Etanwala, Kehelpathdoruwa and Na ela sides. But Hunnasgiriya, Gombaniya and Victoria reservoirs were seen through the mist.

Pseudophilautus hoffmanni

Pseudophilautus hoffmanni

 view from the 1st peak

view from the 1st peak

on the way to 2nd peak

on the way to 2nd peak

tired but yet marching

tired but yet marching

the ridge we walked along

the ridge we walked along

 beauty

beauty

view towards the 3rd peak

view towards the 3rd peak

another view

another view

on the 2nd peak with an interesting family who hiked all 5 peaks

on the 2nd peak with an interesting family who hiked all 5 peaks

 towards the 3rd

towards the 3rd

couldnt resist

couldnt resist

colourful mountain tops

colourful mountain tops

 the ridge

the ridge

3rd peak

3rd peak

marching forward

marching forward

towards pitwala

towards pitwala

peak close to maningala

peak close to maningala

towards gomare gala

towards gomare gala

looking back towards 2nd peak

looking back towards 2nd peak

ashoka

“ashoka”

no path?

no path?

the drop

the drop

5th waiting for us

5th waiting for us

wanted to take this route downwards

wanted to take this route downwards

 wow

wow

best camping place on 4th peak

best camping place on 4th peak

 water source at 4th peak

water source at 4th peak

kalupahana

kalupahana

paddyfields at etanwala side

paddyfields at etanwala side

note the flowers

note the flowers

binara

binara

had a nice smell

had a nice smell

its fruit

its fruit

towards infinity

towards infinity

like a velvet

like a velvet

5th peak

5th peak

victoria reservoir

victoria reservoir

4th 3rd and 2nd

4th 3rd and 2nd

hunnasgiri peak

hunnasgiri peak

extensions of knuckles range

extensions of knuckles range

down the pallam

down the pallam

mist mist go away

mist mist go away

beautyful mother nature

beautiful mother nature

sri lankan white eye

sri lankan white eye

a pano

a pano

After having lunch at the 3rd peak we returned back in a hurry because thundering lightning began. Few members in our group did suffer with on and off cramps but it settled with time. When we reached the end it was almost 5.30pm so we did head towards the Bambarella Bridge and refreshed ourselves before heading towards Kandy where we had dinner. I had to say good bye to the rest since I was heading towards Monaragala. This was one hell of a hike that we will cherish for few years.

there were plenty of bees on this

there were plenty of bees on this

lonely beauty

lonely beauty

lunch time

lunch time

heaven

heaven

returning back

returning back

back to the 2nd peak

back to the 2nd peak

down we go

down we go

3 layers

3 layers

wiltshire and etipola seen far away

wiltshire and etipola seen far away

a bark mushroom

a bark mushroom

 path among the bushes

path among the bushes

steep descent

steep descent

bit of blue

bit of blue

resting point

resting point

flat terain

flat terain

gray leaves

gray leaves

what we conquered

what we conquered

 the team

the team

Cramping Muscles & Reviving Souls – Knuckles Mountain Range…

$
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Year and Month 21-23 Mar, 2015
Number of Days 3
Crew Ana, Athula, Tony & Me
Accommodation Deanston Forest Department Bungalow
Transport By SUV
Activities Relaxing, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Koswatte->Kaduwela->Kandy Road->Ambepussa->Kurunegala->Katugasthota->Hunnasgiriya->Corbet’s Gap->Thangappuwa->Corbet’s Gap->Deanston Bungalow and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Deanston Bungalow is a very nice and cozy place to stay and can be booked from the FD Office at Battaramulla.
  • Kumara, the caretaker is one of the best caretakers I’ve come across. He can cook really well and friendly. On top of all that, he doesn’t drink. Very rare thing among caretakers and he’s the second I’ve seen after Abeysinghe at Ginihiriya Bungalow aka Anderson Lodge at HP.
  • You have to take the food and linen with you.
  • There’s a Hydro Power Plant dedicated for the bungalow from which the bungalow is powered however, this is not so reliable due to various reasons such as lack of water, break down, maintenance, etc. There’s a Kerosene-powered generator and you’ll have to take kerosene with you. If I’m not mistaken 1 liter of kerosene can give you 40 mins of electricity. So better check with them prior to the visit.
  • Contact No. of Deanston Bungalow is 081-3885227 but not working at times.
  • Rajah is a very good and reliable guide to do the Alugallena and Knuckles Peaks should you need one. His contact numbers are 081-5724687, 075-6416576.
  • Shiva Kumar is also a good guide and through him I got Rajah. His contact numbers are as follows: 081-5713915, 072-6058008.
  • There are water sources all along the trail except when climbing the Knuckles Peaks (last leg) for drinking purposes. However this is not guaranteed and depends on rains. So it’s advisable to check with someone before your journey.
  • Leech protection is a must if you do this during the rains (not recommended though) or after. Otherwise, there shouldn’t be any problem with them.
  • Take some snacks and packets of Jeewani as it can be very dehydrating.
  • Alugallena is a nice place to stay overnight and you don’t necessarily have to take a tent with you. There’s a toilet and a nearby stream as well.
  • Hunnasgiriya to Corbet’s Gap road is still under construction and not a sign of completing anytime soon. However, the road is nicely carpeted closer to Loolwatte from Hunnasgiriya except for a few patches where it’s damaged from the rains late last year. By and large it’s not too bad and can be done in a car as well with some careful driving.
  • The stretch between Corbet’s Gap and Thangappuwa along the Jeep Track has been deteriorated in the rains and would need a high-clearance vehicle. Check My Report when I walked along that in Apr 2014.
  • Special thanks to Hari for clearing the doubts and publishing a comprehensive post on Deanston FD Bungalow.
  • Minimize the use of polythene and bring back everything you take with you.
  • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Knuckles”, is a name that is known all over the world because everyone has got them. Well I’m not gonna talk about those knuckles. I’m trying to pave the way for another fairy tale. There are five peaks hidden deep in a forest bordered by Kandy and Matale districts. They are shaped in such a way that whoever saw them felt as if looking at an enlarged set of knuckles created by the Mother Nature. Thus the name “Knuckles” not only for the mountain range but also for the whole forest. Now this is a world heritage site and a dream for many hikers.

Now that I have managed to get the first thoughts in black and white, lemme take you through this beautiful mountains. Don’t get left behind. Here, hold my hand and we’ll go and savor the greenery mixed with blue skies. After our monthly outing of February to the breathtaking yet exorbitant Nagrak, we decided to make have a go at this exquisite mountain range. Initially Ana had misgivings about the place as leeches are very common, especially when raining. However, we managed to convince him that there won’t be many as March is known for ideal weather conditions. I’ve been to Knuckles many times but this is a place where you can keep going back again and again, year after year yet couldn’t get enough of. Meemure was the center of my hikes and this time I wanted to try something different. I wanted to climb the Knuckles Mountains and visit the historic Alugallena which is somewhat similar to those pre-historical caves scattered throughout the country in places such as Beli Lena off Kitulgala, Batadomba Lena off Kuruwita, Alawala off Attanagalla and Pahiyangala off Bulathsinhala. However, there haven’t been any excavations by the archeological department at Alugallena like at those places. This time it’s gonna be centered on Thangappuwa.

So we fixed the dates and Atha went to book the Forest Department Bungalow at Deanston from the head office in Battaramulla. Had he been 5 mins late, you wouldn’t have got the chance to read this. But he didn’t and we got the bungalow ahead of couple of guys who were dying of jealousy and you are gonna be rewarded with the story as a result. As usual Ana took on the planning (he believes in the Japanese way, 90% planning and 10% execution) and we waited patiently for the day to arrive. I checked with Hari about the bungalow and what we had to take as he’d been there and given invaluable details on it.

I was debating whether to get a guide or not as many have done this on their own. Atha had even been there before with Hari and others couple of years ago but then from Bambarella. After a long and hard thought, I being myself, decided to have professional input and put in a call to Shiva Kumar. He’s an experienced guide too but couldn’t make it on the days we were going. However he fixed Rajah to accompany us. What a good fellow he turned out to be in the end. He is very calm and quiet, not an overenthusiastic chatterbox. Unfortunately his knowledge of Knuckles is limited probably due to lack of exposure to this vast jungle. On the other hand, I might be a bit unkind as I tend to compare guides with Nava mama who’s a walking encyclopedia when it comes to Knuckles.

This time it was special coz old Tony finally managed to come out of his shell and join us after a long time. Unfortunately Prasa couldn’t make it so it left Ana and Atha with Tony and me.

Day 01

We as usual left the stifling and humid Colombo in the wee hours of 21 March heading to Deanston via Hunnasgiriya.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Alugallena.
  2. Knuckles Mountain Range (Peaks 1 & 2).
  3. Mini World’s End in the dark and Sunrise, Deanston.

We arrived at Hunnasgiriya around 7am and stopped where Meemure van parks. There’s a shop just there and we had our breakfast of string hoppers, bread, hoppers and dhal wadei with few curries including a very hot but surprisingly good Lunu Miris, very much similar to the Kohonawala one. It simply made our mouths salivating. I managed to put a call through to Shiva and told him that we were on our way. Turning into the Meemure road brought back many happy memories. The morning was chilly but crisp. Surrounding mountains looked greener than ever. We drove on and found many places where there had been earth slips during the heavy rains late last year. The road is still under construction but the stretch between Hunnasgiriya and Loolwatte is around 75% complete with carpet. However there are areas where the road is terrible and one would have to be very careful driving especially in a car.

By 8am we reached the Deanston bungalow. There was no sign of guests so we drove in. As you know this is right in front of the Knuckles Conservation Center where you have to buy tickets to visit Dothalugala and Mini World’s End. Kumara welcomed us warmly and said we could leave our baggage as nobody was there. There had been guests for the past fifteen days in a row and he’d been terribly busy. We refreshed ourselves and got back in the vehicle declining Kumara’s offer of cuppa tea. Before we go on let me show you around the bungalow coz you must be itching to know what it’s like.

Deanston Bungalow

This is one of the better-maintained FD bungalows. Here are some things about it for your information.

  • The cost is around Rs. 2250/- per night.
  • There are two bedrooms and 9 people can stay. One bedroom has 5 beds (including two bunk beds) and the other 4 (two bunk beds). So you have to plan ahead who’s gonna sleep up. 4 people will have to climb up for the night.
  • There is electricity both hydro and generator (kerosene powered). Hydro depends on the water and many other things. So it’s safer to take some kerosene as well in case it’s not available.
  • They will charge you for gas. I guess it was Rs. 20/- per person per meal.
  • You have to take your own linen. However we were provided with some bed sheets which were clean. However it’s better for you to go prepared.
  • There’s enough parking for a couple of vehicles at the bungalow.
  • There’s only Kumara, the caretaker in the bungalow. He’s real good and a super cook. Just remember he doesn’t drink, one of the very few.
  • There are two separate washrooms for the rooms and they are clean enough.
  • There’s cutlery and crockery available.

Well, that’s about it and here are some pictures for you to look at.

The turn off to the bungalow

The turn off to the bungalow

What a wonderful saying to begin our journey

What a wonderful saying to begin our journey

Here it is

Here it is

Side view

Side view

Courtyard

Courtyard

Well you know what it is

Well you know what it is

Entering

Entering

Chatting area

Chatting area

See if you can read the note on the wall above

See if you can read the note on the wall above

Main bedroom (with 5 beds)

Main bedroom (with 5 beds)

The second (with 4 beds)

The second (with 4 beds)

One of the washrooms for those who wanna take a look

One of the washrooms for those who wanna take a look

Adhere to these by all means (Click image to enlarge)

Adhere to these by all means (Click image to enlarge)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The story behind the name (Click image to enlarge)

The story behind the name (Click image to enlarge)

Our vehicle at the park

Our vehicle at the park

“Ok, now let’s make a move coz it’s getting late and I promised to be at Thangappuwa as early as possible. Come on hop in”. Ana took the wheel and away we went. Dothalugala, one of the higher peaks in Knuckles was to our right looking serene. The sun was up and about. This is familiar ground and I enjoyed it very much. We passed Loolwatte, a major town before Kaikawala and Meemure. The noticeable difference was the electricity poles along the road beyond Loolwatte. Nava mama said recently that the villages around Kaikawala and Meemure are going to be powered from the national grid which might mean they would lose control of the hydro power plant as it would get absorbed into the main line. Well, I’ve misgivings about it but will keep them to myself for the time being.

We arrived at the sensational Corbet’s Gap or according to villagers “Aththala Mattuwa aka Aththala Mittuwa” in Sinhala. Do I have to tell you what we did next? Of course you know me by now, don’t you? We kept taking pictures like madmen running around like kids given new toys. Knuckles mountain range could be seen above the foreground hills but looking at them I felt as if the shape of it has changed somewhat. The coppery rays bathed everything on their path. The sky was cloudless and we saw the valley towards Meemure. My heart began to beat faster just thinking of a prospective journey back there. Maybe I’ll get my wish soon enough. After the inevitable photo shoot, we hopped back in and started the 4km-drive to Thangappuwa. The road has deteriorated since the rains but still in fairly good condition except for a couple of places. I hope you can remember me walking along this last year April, after the Lakegala hike. Sweet memories came flooding back to me.

Looking towards Knuckles peaks

Looking towards Knuckles peaks

Sphinx Rock

Sphinx Rock

Towards Loolwatte

Towards Loolwatte

We're coming to you (Alugallena is at the base of the pointed rock in the middle taller than the rest)

We’re coming to you (Alugallena is at the base of the pointed rock in the middle taller than the rest)

Fixing the monopod for a groupie

Fixing the monopod for a groupie

Resembles King-Kong

Resembles King-Kong

We drove through the forestry road which had certainly seen better days, especially during the cardamom season in the 70s and 80s. Along the way, closer to Thangappuwa we met Rajah, our dedicated guide. He’d been waiting but got tired and decided to come down to meet us. Together we went to Thangappuwa and drove right up to the line houses where Rajah’s house is. This is where our reliable Toyota had to wait until we came back. He must have been dead tired and looking forward to a well-deserved rest. We got our things and started on the journey. Our target for today is Alugallena.

“Ok guys, now you’ve been reading steadily for a long time, haven’t you? There you looked at the time and felt guilty for ignoring the work. Ok, it’s time you got back to work, if you ain’t got any, go take a break, have a cuppa tea or something cool as the sun must be bearing down on you. Don’t you worry, I’ll be right here waiting for you. I’m not gonna desert you having taken you this far. Because when we start the journey, there won’t be any stopping or turning back.”

Alugallena Trail

“Hello, you are back. We’ve been waiting and you took your time coming. We’re ready if you are, so shall we?”

We walked through the line houses, a Kovil and a playground and came to the estate road. It led to the edge of the estate but last km or so is a steep hike to reach the border of the forest. We started just after 9.30am, so much later than we’d have liked. It’s crucial to start as early as possible because the early morning hours will give you that boost to achieve most of the targets set for the day. We took on the challenge and tackled the first few hundred meters along the estate road huffing and puffing. The engines started to boil while the suspensions were at the breaking point. Then crossing a small stream we started to go uphill through the tea plants. It was backbreaking work and we were all bushed even before starting the hike properly.

We were all out of practice and hadn’t done any serious hiking recently and we felt the knees creaking loud enough to be heard a mile away. We were like Sherpas climbing the Everest. One step and one breath, another step and another breath. I know you are now laughing from every organ in your body, especially those who have already done this. I may sound very childish to make this such a dramatic hike but to be honest; it was real tough for us. Rajah meanwhile looked as if going to buy a loaf of bread around the corner while we like a pack of dogs that had run 100 miles. Finally, after so much struggling, we reached the forest department erected poles marking the boundary. It took us closer to an hour and a half (yeah you heard right, 1.5hrs) to get there. Worse than a snail, you’re bound to retort. We drank one third of our Jeewani quota to give us some strength.

The view towards Thangappuwa was grand. We could see the Alikanda (given the name as it looks similar to an elephant head) and tea estates running all the way to the hills afar. The road to Rangala and part of Rangala were also visible. The path mercifully was shaded by the towering trees and bushes keeping the harmful rays at bay. The trail turned into more flat terrain compared to what we came before. We all breathed a sigh of relief and continued on. For the next couple of kms it was more like a wavy track which was uneven. You would need a solid pair of shoes to tackle this path full of lose rocks, potholes and tree branches fallen across. The path bordered by typical bamboo trees and mainly Nelu plants which were on their last legs. Nevertheless we saw a substantial amount of flowers especially the purple and greenish white ones. We crossed couple of water streams flowing beautifully carrying that crystal clear water to feed areas such as Digana, Theldeniya, etc.

We saw a strange kinda frog thanks to Tony’s sharp eyes. The fella almost looked like a dead leaf camouflaging itself. Further couple of unique orchids was there too. We came across a fairly large stream and saw the remains of a bridge across it. Rajah said it’d been washed away due to the water flow. After a long leg of hiking, it brought us to the first view of Knuckles mountain range. She was standing high and we could see her over the tree tops. At the end of the range is another towering rocky mountain whose base lies the Alugallena. We kept up and soon came to the turn off to the Kota Ganga Ella. Passing that we came out into a large opening the size of a football field. This would’ve been an ideal landing site for the Ravana the Great. Well you never know what actually happened during his era in this mysterious forest. We were tired and behind schedule but the sun kept bearing down on us further slowing the journey.

Here's the team with Rajah

Here’s the team with Rajah

Leading the way

Leading the way

Looking back towards Thangappuwa

Looking back towards Thangappuwa

Ana coming up

Ana coming up

The path towards the forest. You have to climb to the top of the treeline

The path towards the forest. You have to climb to the top of the treeline

Small stream we crossed

Small stream we crossed

Tiny bridge

Tiny bridge

Lawrence of Arabia at Thangappuwa

Lawrence of Arabia at Thangappuwa

Rangala is that way

Rangala is that way

What you're seeing is the Alikanda

What you’re seeing is the Alikanda

Still inside the tea estate and sat for a much needed break

Still inside the tea estate and sat for a much needed break

Finally at the edge of forest

Finally at the edge of forest

Thangappuwa below

Thangappuwa below

Patterns

Patterns

Waiting for us

Waiting for us

Tiny footpath bordered by the trees

Tiny footpath bordered by the trees

Nelu?

Nelu?

"Binara Malee Ekka Enna Binara Mahe Meda" - sang Tony...

“Binara Malee Ekka Enna Binara Mahe Meda” – sang Tony…

Sambar play ground

Sambar play ground

Unknown

Unknown

Shady path

Shady path

According to the age (guess who's the oldest)

According to the age (guess who’s the oldest)

Heavenly

Heavenly

Looking for a better angle

Looking for a better angle

Plenty of water streams

Plenty of water streams

Oh yeah, Nelu

Oh yeah, Nelu

A resting point, however there was a broken down cement sign posting

A resting point, however there was a broken down cement sign posting

Know the fella?

Know the fella?

What about now?

What about now?

Plenty of these

Plenty of these

"Parata Bara Athu"

“Parata Bara Athu”

Wild berries?

Wild berries?

Uneven path made the going tough

Uneven path made the going tough

Very strong leaves

Very strong leaves

Ooops

Ooops

Such beauty

Such beauty

More to go

More to go

Finally, the range came out of hiding

Finally, the range came out of hiding

Mummified cricket

Mummified cricket

Never ending

Never ending

Full range, to the right is the Alugallena Peak

Full range, to the right is the Alugallena Peak

2018 Rio Triple Jump Contender

2018 Rio Triple Jump Contender

Kota Ganga Ella trail

Kota Ganga Ella trail

Tiny tiny hills below the big sister

Tiny tiny hills below the big sister

Imposing

Imposing

Out in the open but the job is far from finished

Out in the open but the job is far from finished

We crossed the open terrain and entered the forest once again. The path steadily went downhill crossing a couple more streams. Another half hour or so hiking brought us to a key point in the trail. It’s the forked junction where the trail divides into two paths similar to the arms of letter “Y”. The left goes towards the Knuckles Peaks while the right goes to Alugallena. We felt very happy coz we thought our target was nearby. Atha, who had been there before, kept quiet not giving away anything. We started happily hoping to get there soon and after a short while we saw a complete skeleton of a Sambar Deer that had been fallen victim to a leopard. It was right by the trail and the hairs of the Sambar’s coat along with rotten meat were lying underneath the scattered bones.

It’s the law in the wild and we carried on. Every passing minute added fuel to our anxiety and we kept wondering if we’d have enough time to get back. None of us had any torch but even with a torch or a few of them would have made very little difference. I’d estimated 8hrs for the whole journey, 5 to go and 3 to get back. We should get back by 5.30pm according to that. The trail was so uneven and wet. The leeches came out of their homes sensing a juicy meal. We crossed two fairly big streams that had caused landslides during the rains. Alugallena is about half a km from the second one. The towering rock I told you about was now very close. The wall towards the base had that grey-ash color. A tiny flow of water was falling from the top but it was nothing more than a few drops. We finally came to the target just before 2pm having toiled so hard for some four and half hours. Despite all the delaying we were still within my estimation but I was worried about the return journey coz unlike other times, this was going to be real tough.

It was not like what I had seen in many pictures. What I saw took me back to those pre-historical caves I’d visited before. It’s something I didn’t feel looking at the pictures. Rajah said this was used by the cardamom farmers to stay while collecting the crops. They would sundry them before taking them to sell. The cave is about 40-50ft in length and at the widest point about 15ft in width. There are signs of foundations and leveled floor. Most of the rudimentarily built walls have fallen but to the right was where nowadays travelers stay for the night. There is a partial three-sided covered room rather spot about 10X10. The toilet next to it and the water stream at the furthest corner. There was lot of water in it but we heard it can get very dry leaving precious little for drinking. There were signs of recent camping, around two dozen cans and bottles (mainly pre-cooked meals) were there. Wish whoever visited had taken the trouble to take them back.  There was an orange tree and a jack tree as well. However the most prominent thing was the cluster of banana plants. There must be around a few dozen either planted by the cardamom seekers or generally grown on their own with the help of animals. However they are there only near the cave.

We rested our battered feet and drank the cool knuckles water greedily. It ran down our parched throats bringing some energy back into our bodies. The vegetable roties and wadei we took with us evaporated in no time reminding us how hungry we were. It was time for a break but we had to cut it short due to time constraints. So this is a very good learning curve for you guys. It’s not a good idea to do the whole journey in one day, if so you would have to start as early as possible, preferably before 6.30am. However most of you would try to do both, Alugallena and Knuckles Peaks in one go. So stop overnight either in Alugallena or at a camping site which would make it not so strenuous. There is something I have to tell you about the camping site located on the way to the peaks. But, not right now. I’ll tell you that tomorrow when we’re going to climb the mountain range. You will come with us, won’t you? But right now, we gotta get back to Thangappuwa and then to our bungalow.

Back on the trail

Back on the trail

Rocky slabs are common in the open terrain

Rocky slabs are common in the open terrain

Another specie of Orchids

Another specie of Orchids

How they got the name

How they got the name

Entering the forest once again

Entering the forest once again

Dead tree art

Dead tree art

Beautiful

Beautiful

Ana blocking the path to Alugallena. The left goes to Knuckles which we did the following day

Ana blocking the path to Alugallena. The left goes to Knuckles which we did the following day

Dark

Dark

Curt and treacle?

Curd and treacle?

Woody woodpecker is round the corner

Woody woodpecker is round the corner

"Where's this darn cave?" - was everyone's question

“Where’s this darn cave?” – was everyone’s question

More water streams and entering leech infested terrain

More water streams and entering leech infested terrain

Starry shaped plants

Starry shaped plants

Branch of dried mushrooms

Branch of dried mushrooms

Couple of them

Couple of them

Cardamom, the reason why Knuckles was a key area in the past

Cardamom, the reason why Knuckles was a key area in the past

Life on the trunk

Life on the trunk

You know I can't resist them

You know I can’t resist them

Alugallena is not in sight

Alugallena is not in sight

Holy moly guacamole

Holy moly guacamole

Can't be that old

Can’t be that old

The back bone and the rotten meat stuck to the bones

The back bone and the rotten meat stuck to the bones

Jaw with some teeth as well

Jaw with some teeth as well

Thick mushroom

Thick mushroom

The best way to quench the unbearable thirst (Hari Style)

The best way to quench the unbearable thirst (Hari Style)

Path covered in bushes

Path covered in bushes

Leech inspection

Leech inspection

Huge boulder along the path

Huge boulder along the path

Remember the peak?

Remember the peak?

Just before the cave, looks like people keep coming for it, or is it an old one?

Just before the cave, looks like people keep coming for it, or is it an old one?

But this is not old

But this is not old

Finally

Finally

Water dripping from the top of the rock

Water dripping from the top of the rock

Our target

Our target

The view upwards

The view upwards

See the remains of walls

See the remains of walls

Banana plants signaling the civilization

Banana plants signaling the civilization

Ideal camping place

Ideal camping place

Toilet and the washing bucket

Toilet and the washing bucket

Inner room and the floor is well flattened

Inner room and the floor is well flattened

Campfire

Camp-fire

Getting ready for the return journey

Getting ready for the return journey

Don't take any notice, he's pretending

Don’t take any notice, he’s pretending

Here's the joyful team

Here’s the joyful team

Return Journey

We rested for about half hour and decided to get back around 2.15pm. The thought of having to back sent shuddering down our brains but we were determined to make it happen before the dark. We all got going this time mostly climbing up. The evening sun was trying in vain to penetrate the top layer of the forest but he kept resisting in a big way. We passed the land slid areas and entered into the somewhat even terrain. When we came into the view of the skeletal remains of the Sambar, we knew that the turn off was nearby.

Couple of times we stopped to massage our thigh and calf muscles. Out in the open, the view was spectacular. The sun was setting to the right of us and looking back the mountain range looked absolutely irresistible. Those pointed knucle-shaped peaks were something out of a dream. Now that the sun was setting, there was an orange glow along the crest of the peaks. We had to stop to admire this sensational picture unfolding before us. Crossing the open terrain we entered the forest patch to do the last bit of the hike. We were still within the schedule, don’t ask me how but miraculously, until we out of the forest to the edge of the estate, just where we had to climb steeply, we were within the time table.

When we came to the edge of the estate with a panoramic view of Thangappuwa and the surrounding in the dusk, we heaved a sigh of relief. The final episode of the hike took longer and coming down to the flat terrain felt like winning a million dollar lottery. When we reached our vehicle, it was 6pm which meant we had been hiking for some 8.5hrs. We exceeded the planned schedule only by half hour despite all the drawbacks. We went to a shop and had a sugary boost before saying goodnight to Rajah and promising to be back early on the following morning.

See ya!

See ya!

Very tiny fella and I almost stepped on it

Very tiny fella and I almost stepped on it

Signs of landslides

Signs of landslides

Sent a shiver down my spine

Sent a shiver down my spine

Towering high

Towering high

The old couple

The old couple

Cherries?

Cherries?

Beautiful path

Beautiful path

Sun is setting slowly

Sun is setting slowly

Crossing those streams once again

Crossing those streams once again

Again, showing that he's dead beat. A great actor

Again, showing that he’s dead beat. A great actor

Last rays of sun bathing Alikanda and Thangappuwa

Last rays of sun bathing Alikanda and Thangappuwa

A cloud is hovering above

A cloud is hovering above

Ready to be taken home

Ready to be taken home

End of a grand but strenuous hike

End of a grand but strenuous hike

The drive was not so bad thanks to the build quality of Toyota. We passed Loolwatte in the dark and around 7.30 reached the bungalow to the dismay of Kumara who’d been worried sick of our delay. Thankfully and very sensibly Ana had given him the menu for dinner which was nice and ready.

We all had a quick wash in the cold water giving an ice treatment for the overworked tendons and muscles. The dinner was delicious and Kumara can definitely cook. We tucked up in our cozy beds by 9.30, so much late for us as we hit the sack normally around 8pm. The temperature was a mild 20 degrees but dropped another few degrees in the night.

Well, I guess it’s time you too get some sleep coz we got a long day ahead and I can hear Ana cursing me for taking him on such a strenuous hike. Go sleep now but remember, you have to get up by 4.30am. Well I wish I could look at your face now. “So early, and after such a tiring journey?”. I can almost hear your groans. All I can tell you is, “be ready or get left behind”. Sounds like the army, doesn’t it? Well, so long for now. Sleep tight and get up early.

Day 02

We got up as usual to find Ana up and about. Kumara was boiling grams and making roti simultaneously. A cup of coffee woke me properly. We rushed through the morning rituals and sat for a hearty breakfast. Kumara, in the meantime, packed our lunch of roti, pre-cooked sprats with onions and boiled eggs in their shells. Everything was ready by 6am and we left once again for Thangappuwa. The morning breeze came in through the lowered windows refreshing everything on its way. Dothalugala rose majestically against a royal blue sky showing off her greenery. All of a sudden, we saw this red hot plate to our right through the trees. It was the sun, coming up still in his sleep looking like a plateful of lava. We met the Loolwatte bus followed by Kaikawala and Meemure vans going to Hunnasgiriya.

The drive did us well and we stopped for a quick break at Corbet’s Gap. The mighty Knuckles mountain range looked higher than ever now that we were gonna climb her. She looked calm yet very much dominating. The drive along the jeep track to Thangappuwa was now familiar and we reached the parking lot closer to Rajah’s house just after 7am. Everything was in time but Ana and Atha decided to take it easy for the day asking Tony and me to go ahead while they tagged along behind at a more bearable rate. The strenuousness of the previous day’s hike had taken their toll on all of us. The prospect of having to maneuver up the steep path through the tea estate sent shivers down the spine.

Mmmm, smells nice

Mmmm, smells nice

Sun coming from the east. Tomorrow we'd see him from a special place

Sun coming from the east. Tomorrow we’d see him from a special place

Big glowing plate

Big glowing plate

Fiery lava

Fiery lava

The road isolated in the morning

The road isolated in the morning

Oh, finally a pic of mine

Oh, finally a pic of mine

Today our target is the Knuckles

Today our target is the Knuckles

Knuckles Mountain Range

Ok lads, I won’t bore you with all the agony of climbing up the first part coz you too had a tough time and I’m sure your limbs are complaining as much as ours. So I’ll save my breath for the first part and let you enjoy it through the pictures. The forest however looked greener and more beautiful. We arrived at the open area having made good ground and on time. However Atha and Ana were not too far behind. We sat down on the rocky ground in the shade to enjoy a biscuit but found we were already hungry. A couple of boiled eggs went down with a packet of lemon puff. We felt better and let’s now take a long jump straight to the turn off where the path divides. “Ok, ready for the jump? Right hold Tony’s and my hands tight and here we go”.

A Duck, you know the plural form? "Godak"

A Duck, you know the plural form? “Godak”

The same old road

The same old road

Oops, beautiful colors

Oops, beautiful colors

Walking through the path

Walking through the path

The open terrain, remember?

The open terrain, remember?

Here's Rajah

Here’s Rajah

Uncle Tony showing the path to the Peaks

Uncle Tony showing the path to the Peaks

Unfortunately Ana and Atha were too heavy to carry with us. So having let them come in their own pace, we took the left path this time that goes steadily up. Unlike the Alugallena trail, there is plenty of open places on this trail making you feel a lot better. It also helps to get your bearings and check how much you have to go. It’s a lot worse when you have to walk through the thick forest without seeing much and knowing where you are. It can make you claustrophobic. Knuckles kept with us all the way waving her hands urging us to make it snappy. Old Tony kept with me and Rajah who said this was the first time any group had done these hikes like this as far as he knew. Well looking at how strenuous it is even I’m surprised how we managed it.

We walked through a path that pretty much resembled Thotupola Trail. I hope you remember that journey but if you don’t, a simple click on the link will take you. We stumbled upon the campsite with two camp beds. However the toilet had been broken down (yeah, you heard me right. It looked broken by someone) probably by the forest officials. The tin roof was lying on the path and the main structure had been destroyed in almost half making it unusable. We were wondering what was happening. Are they gonna discourage people camping here? Well, that is what I wanted to show you. However we saw the remains of burned wooden sticks signaling some group had camped there recently. All the sign postings inside the forest had been either taken away or destroyed as well. Atha said in his last journey there were some signs but we saw nothing like that.

Knuckles looked appealing from the path and we arrived at a rocky slab and a clear area just before the climb up. This reminded us of Kirigalpoththa Trail where on the way we found a similar spot with Agra Bopath looking at us from the distance. We stopped for the first of the documentaries of the journey. Unfortunately we couldn’t do one at Alugallena. We were dead tired and it went clean out of my mind. Afterwards we crossed the open ground and entered the forest to find another set of Sambar bones nearby the trail. These leopards only seem to hunt along the footpath. This looked older than the set we saw yesterday. Hurrying on, Rajah showed us the last stream before our hike where we topped our water bottles. Hopefully Atha would remember to do the same.

This was so much like the Kirigalpoththa as only the final stretch has that steep climb with no water sources. So, if you’re not tired, shall we go on and start the climb. I don’t mind taking a break but looking up, seeing those inviting peaks is something I can’t bear much longer. So if you want to take a break, make it quick.

Our target

Our target

The typical uneven path

The typical uneven path

Shiny colors

Shiny colors

Campsite is nearby

Campsite is nearby

Here it is. Can you see a white object to the right of the pic? It's the broken toilet

Here it is. Can you see a white object to the right of the pic? It’s the broken toilet

The stream near the campsite

The stream near the campsite

Rajah going ahead

Rajah going ahead

Don't know what they are

Don’t know what they are

Back on the shady path

Back on the shady path

And open terrain too

And open terrain too

It's in continuous use

It’s in continuous use

Reminded me of Kirigalpoththa

Reminded me of Kirigalpoththa

There's our target

There’s our target

Another Sambar remains but this one's much older compared to the one we saw yesterday

Another Sambar remains but this one’s much older compared to the one we saw yesterday

Scattered bones

Scattered bones

Like a fin of a swimmer

Like a fin of a swimmer

Dead and twisted

Dead and twisted

Just before the final assault

Just before the final assault

Climbing Up

The sun was up and shining when we came out to the final push. Rajah showed no sign of feeling tired but we on the other hand we were bushed. We kept pushing beyond the limits topping ourselves with Jeewani and cool water. The higher we went the spectacular the view became. So we took numerous breaks to enjoy and capture them on our cameras. Tony had got a new smart phone and kept shooting away. I guess it’s just a matter of time before he loses it coz he’d lost so many before and the odds are this won’t probably see the end of the year.

We were climbing up the first peak and about one third up met the path which comes from Bambarella. This is what Atha, Hari and the group had taken when they climbed some time ago. The Nelu, Bamboo and many other plants are so close to the path on either side making it possible only one person at a time. If Hariya were there, he would’ve made bigger. We after a while came to an observation point which gave us a grand view from Corbet’s Gap to the edge of Riverston side. The heat getting on our nerves and we had to keep drinking water and Jeewani to keep them under control. Some more hiking brought us to a stone’s-throw from the top. We were so tired and if thrown, the stone wouldn’t have made it 100ft. Then we were on the summit of the first peak where it forks like a camel back.

There was an area which was kinda marked with a thin rope (probably by a group of hikers) making it look like a camping site. It really looked ideal coz the place nearly 12X12 was completely covered all around and over by the trees giving it shelter from gusty winds and to a certain extent from rain as well. The only concern is the water coz there didn’t seem to have any water source anywhere near. So one would have to carry plenty with them should you do camping which is not a pleasant climb with the added weight. However I feel it’s worth the trouble if you can manage. We decided to have our lunch on the way back and pushed on towards the second and highest peak. Unlike the first, the last bit of climb to her and on top are bare save for plenty of itchy Mana bushes. You would be completely at the mercy of the sun and the winds. We carried on the final stretch and arrived at the top of Knuckles Mountain Range.

Up we go

Up we go

Window?

Window?

And the view got better

And the view got better

Higher we went

Higher we went

You know them, don’t you?

You know them, don’t you?

Clearer view

Clearer view

Where's the Bambarella Trail?

Where’s the Bambarella Trail?

Oh, here it is. Tony showing the path to the peaks, Rajah to Bambarella and me on the way up from Thangappuwa

Oh, here it is. Tony showing the path to the peaks, Rajah to Bambarella and me on the way up from Thangappuwa

Little more

Little more

Plenty of bamboo

Plenty of bamboo

Uncle Tony

Uncle Tony

How to get up?

How to get up?

This is how you do it

This is how you do it

Almost on the top

Almost on the top

Can you see the Sphinx Rock?

Can you see the Sphinx Rock?

Come on, nearly there

Come on, nearly there

Ok, don't ask why I took it. Maybe the sun was too hot

Ok, don’t ask why I took it. Maybe the sun was too hot

As long as a big arm

As long as a big arm

The contrast

The contrast

On the top of the first summit

On the top of the first summit

Here's the fenced campsite

Here’s the fenced camp-site

Beautiful views all around

Beautiful views all around

The second and the highest peak

The second and the highest peak

Come Tony

Come Tony

Just below now

Just below now

Up in the world

Up in the world

Tony Mama not giving up

Tony Mama not giving up

The path we came from

The path we came from

Tony feeling overjoyed

Tony feeling overjoyed

We felt very proud of ourselves and Tony even danced around feeling the joy. Here it gives you a near 360-degree view. I said near coz the towering rock that has Alugallena at the base blocked the view somewhat. The third peak was right next to us and we could make out a path running on top of her but to reach there one would have to climb down the second peak to some extent before start climbing once again. However the path from the summit was not so clear so we decided not to venture further. Well you could see the road to Meemure, Corbet’s Gap, Dumbanagala, Sphinx Rock, Thangappuwa, Alikanda, Rangala, Bambarella, Panwila and the surrounding areas. Moving further I guess we could see up to Matale and Riverston as well. This was some place. We took loads and loads of pictures as souvenirs. Finally the sun asked us to leave before getting sunburned.

Summit point

Summit point

The third peak is this

The third peak is this

The rock and the Alugallena is at the base. Gosh, we were there yesterday

The rock and the Alugallena is at the base. Gosh, we were there yesterday

Bambarella Path is somewhere there

Bambarella Path is somewhere there

Towards Matale and Reverston

Towards Matale and Reverston

Endless views

Endless views

The path goes below to the third peak

The path goes below to the third peak

Well time to go

Well time to go

Tony and Me, other oldies on the way up yet

Tony and Me, other oldies on the way up yet

Downhill Journey

We turned around and started the downhill journey. It was a relief to get back into the forest patch on the first peak where we decided to have our lunch. We also met a foreigner coming up panting like a Morris Minor, with a local guide. We settled near the campsite and enjoyed our lunch of Kurakkan mixed Roti, tempered Sprats, boiled eggs and for dessert, lemon puff biscuits. It was so good and all I wanted was a hammock to take a nap. Unfortunately we had neither a hammock nor time. The atmosphere inside this forest patch was simply amazing. Feeling sad to leave the comforting shade, we got back onto business.

We made some good progress and found ourselves soon on the rocky open area. Looking up to the tall peaks and knowing we managed to climb up was a great feeling. We continued passing the campsite, then the turn off to Alugallena  and arrived at the huge open area. We gave our feet and bodies a 10-minute break before doing the final push. Seeing Thangappuwa below was a great feeling but climbing down along the tea patch was a killing blow. It was 4.30 when we arrived at Thangappuwa. Our faithful Toyota was waiting ever so patiently.

After a cup of tea at the shop we drove on towards our bungalow. The drive became more pleasant as there was plenty of daylight left. Finally we arrived at the bungalow around 6am. Kumara had been waiting with the kettle boiling and we had delicious coffee, a cold bath and a chat in that order.

Our lunch

Our lunch

Gosh I'm hungry

Gosh I’m hungry

Tiny flowers

Tiny flowers

See the bee?

See the bee?

Plenty of these came across us

Plenty of these came across us

Looked like a huge rock python

Looked like a huge rock python

Back on the solid ground

Back on the solid ground

We filled our containers and made Jeewani too

We filled our containers and made Jeewani too

Hiding from us

Hiding from us

Looking back feeling proud

Looking back feeling proud

Some more bees

Some more bees

Back at the edge of the forest

Back at the edge of the forest

Managed to climb down without a major incident

Managed to climb down without a major incident

It says 8km to Alugallena but it's close to 10 I guess, coz Rajah said it's 7 miles

It says 8km to Alugallena but it’s close to 10 I guess, coz Rajah said it’s 7 miles

Well, I’m hungry and you must be too. So let’s go see what Kumara has got for us. The dinner was delicious and we kept shoveling until there was no more space. With a difficulty down went a chunk of cashew nut choco as well. What else can a man ask for after a backbreaking hike? We’ve done our quota for this journey but I had an ace up my sleeve. Don’t worry; you’re going to come with us for that as well. It’s gonna be something not so common. There’s my bed calling for me. Will see you tomorrow. Oh forgot to tell you, if you wanna join us, get up at 4am. I know you hate to do that but there’s no other choice. Good night folks!

Hearty meal was in order for the tired group

Hearty meal was in order for the tired group

Don't be jealous

Don’t be jealous

Day 03

Good morning, it’s just gone four and I’m as lazy as anyone to get up. However one must do things like these if they are to achieve greater things. Ana as usual was up and having coffee. He always beats us in the morning to get up and we haven’t a chance of getting up before him. After three cups of coffee I was reasonably awake and started the morning chores. By 5am, we were fully dressed and ready. The chill was a mild 18-degree and we started our hike. Oh, I forgot to tell you about it, didn’t I? Well we’re going for a kind of a night safari to the Mini World’s End. It’s about a 3km walk through the pine forest with a steep and deep ravine at one end. Check out my first ever trip to Meemure when I visited this. Many people do it during the day but I thought of adding a bit of adventure into it and walk in the dark in the hope of witnessing the sunrise.

Mini World’s End

As usual my team backed my decision and with them three dogs joined in the morning stroll. We carried torches which helped walk without tumbling down in the uneven path. Previous night, Kumara narrated one of the horror stories of him and two other foreigners had come across a hunting leopard on the way to the Mini World’s End. It was during the daytime when he accompanied those foreigners. Suddenly a barking deer had run across the trail passing them. After a second or two another huge animal had come bounding through the forest and braked hard about 10ft before Kumara. You know who it is, don’t you? According to Kumara, the leopard was about 8ft in size and had stood still staring at him. He said when turned around to check on the foreigners, there was no sign of them. The leopard and Kumara had been eying each other for some time before he bent down and pretended to pick something. Afterwards the leopard had turned around and walked slowly but not before giving him another of his vicious looks. When he came back to the office, those two foreigners had been in their vehicle all locked up. Apparently even they had had no clue as to how they managed to get there.

We were not scared by the tale, rather got very excited. We had Tony should a leopard happen to come across. We started the hike while those faithful dogs went in front of us stopping every now and then to listen to any danger. They acted like our warning signals, like scouts in military operations. We arrived at the tiny pond and carefully avoided falling into the ice cold water. Passing that we entered the forestry path where the leopard roams around. We walked carefully and soon arrived at the turn off where the path separates into two. This is the beginning of the circular trail and we took the right climbing up.

It was pitch dark and our torches did very little to pierce the inky blackness. Only the crunch of our shoes making on the gravel was audible. There was no wind and the air was so still you could lean on it. After a while we saw a change of color through the trees in the sky. The bluish tinge was more visible and it kept spread out. When we arrived out of the forest to the edge where the path runs for about half a km along the edge, the sky was getting very colorful. Towards the top of the sky was the blue tinge, and it got lighter in color and met a dull yellow. It went further down meeting bright yellow, orange and red just above the mountains. This was a picture no artist could replicate, be them Da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Van Gogh or Picasso. The needles of pine leaves looked sensational in the foreground.

We went along the edge looking for the observation point while the thick clouds delayed sun’s arrival. The endless mountains bordered the villages below. From the left we could see Dothalugala, Sphinx Rock, behind it the Knuckles Peaks, then the Corbet’s Gap. Moving further to the right is Dumbanagala. Between Corbet’s Gap and Dumbanagala, we could see the Meemure road. Then came Gerandi Ella to the right of Dumbanagala with a tiny streak of white. Thelambugala, Kehelpathdoruwa and square shaped Yahangala followed after. Behind the mountains in Kalugala, we could very faintly see the reservoirs of Hasalaka, Sorabora Wewa, Rathkinda and Ulhitiya. A26, Kandy-Mahiyangana road ran just below the mountain range. Famous 18 bends were a little beyond. Further to the right, was the Uda Dumbara town. This is the picture we saw and I don’t have to say how mesmerizing it was.

The sun finally arrived showing a tiny bit of himself looking like a blood red pearl. He rose steadily and became a full plate of glowing lava. A thin layer of mist hung on to the trees below and the steps like lush green paddy fields glowed in the morning rays. Well you could have spent a lifetime admiring this but we had so much more to do in this lifetime so sadly went back bidding farewell. The lighted pine bordered path was so good and the smell of the pine trees was refreshing. We arrived at the bungalow for a hearty breakfast.

Just gone 5am and we're on leopard hunting (now don't get confused)

Just gone 5am and we’re on leopard hunting (now don’t get confused)

Waiting for a leopard to appear

Waiting for a leopard to appear

First sign of rays

First sign of rays

Beautiful

Beautiful

Towards Hasalaka and Mahiyangana

Towards Hasalaka and Mahiyangana

Knuckles in the dawn

Knuckles in the dawn

Villages below the Mini World's End covered with a thin layer of mist

Villages below the Mini World’s End covered with a thin layer of mist

Getting the best angles

Getting the best angles

The path we came and that cement bench like thing is the sign post

The path we came and that cement bench like thing is the sign post

A gem in the sky?

A gem in the sky?

No it's the Sun

No it’s the Sun

Coming up

Coming up

Slowly

Slowly

My goodness

My goodness

Huge lava ball

Huge lava ball

The endless views of the mountains

The endless views of the mountains

Smiling from ear to ear

Smiling from ear to ear

We were there

We were there

Here's the board I told you about

Here’s the board I told you about

Pine tree path

Pine tree path

Not edible, at least for us

Not edible, at least for us

Resting point

Resting point

We carried on

We carried on

The entrance to the forest patch

The entrance to the forest patch

Towards Dothalugala

Towards Dothalugala

Tiny pond

Tiny pond

Remember this bridge where Ana stood

Remember this bridge where Ana stood

KCC

KCC

Now is breakfast time

Now is breakfast time

Go on, serve

Go on, serve

Pinkie

Pinkie

Kumara is at the right

Kumara is at the right

The 4-man crew

The 4-man crew

Afterwards, it was time to say goodbye. We paid our dues and gave some money for Kumara. He is a great host, one of best we’ve met so far. We arrived at Hunnasgiriya and headed straight to Colombo.

Well folks, if I don’t show you some of the Panos, it’d be a real pity.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Black Star – Dothalugala; Dark Green Star – Sphinx Rock; Red Star – Knuckles Range; Yellow Star – The Peak whose base has Alugallena; Light Blue Star – Dumbanagala; Brown Star – Gerandi Ella; Pink Star – Thelembugala; Light Green Star – Kehelpathdoruwa; Indigo Star – Yahangala.

Black Star – Dothalugala; Dark Green Star – Sphinx Rock; Red Star – Knuckles Range; Yellow Star – The Peak whose base has Alugallena; Light Blue Star – Dumbanagala; Brown Star – Gerandi Ella; Pink Star – Thelembugala; Light Green Star – Kehelpathdoruwa; Indigo Star – Yahangala.

So, it’s time I left you to get on with your work.

Hope you guys enjoyed it as much as me and my team. Keep traveling but be safe.

This is Sri signing off for now.

Take care!!!

VESAK AT TRINCOMALEE 2015

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Four
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Guides Dayananda at Tiriyaya, Thushan(07767061701) at Kayyankerni
Accommodation Sea view hotel Nilaweli
Transport Pajero
Activities Culture, Road trip, Archaeology, photography, Boat rides, Wild life
Weather Cloudy but no rains
Route D1 Chilaw -> Wariyapola -> Mao -> Kekirawa -> Habarana -> Kanthale  ->  Trincomalee ->  Nilaweli

D2  Trincomalee -> Tiriyaya -> Pulmude -> Gomarankadawala -> Mora wewa -> Trincomalee

D3 Trincomalee -> Mutur -> Thoppur -> Seruwawila -> Lankapatuna -> Verugal -> Vakare -> Kayyankerni -> returned back the same route

D4 Trincomalee -> Sampur -> Trincomalee Naval base -> Horowpathana -> Anuradhapura -> Puttalama -> Chilaw

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take lots of water( we drank plenty of bottled water)
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • To Visit Hoods tower museum and have a boat ride in a bay you need prior permission from the Naval base(a known contact could speed up the process)
  • There are boats to reach Lankapatuna (200/= per boat) if you reach there from Echalampattu. Alternatively you could visit via Thoppur
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage
  • There is a short cut from Welgam wehera to Nilaweli bordering the tank
  • Marble beach is open to public during 8am to 6pm
  • Need prior permission from the IOC office to visit the oil tanks which Japanese bombed (we got it on that day)
  • Boat ride to Pigeon island was 2000/= (DWC cost 700/=)
  • Avoid long holidays or you would get frustrated

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for arranging permission to get in to the naval base and NG for the guidance around Tiriyaya

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

 Map Day 1 &  4

Map Day 1 & 4

Map day 2

Map day 2

Map day 3

Map day 3

Places of interest

  • Kanthale ancient Sorouwa
  • Welgam wehera
  • Thissa Hermitage – Anandakulam
  • Ruins around Wilankulama lake
  • Fort Frederick
  • Koneshwaram kovil
  • Dogs grave
  • Hoods tower museum
  • Boat ride in Trinco bay
  • Japanese bombed oil tanks(tank farm)
  • War cemetery (WW2)
  • Gokanna RMV
  • Kanniya hot water wells
  • Marble beach
  • Sampur – Foul point
  • Mahaweli river delta
  • Nilaweli beach
  • Pigeon island
  • Kuchchaweli Pichcha mal viharaya
  • Tiriyaya Nagathambarani carving
  • Tiriyaya Giri hadu seya
  • Arisimale beach
  • Kokilai lagoon
  • Bakmeegama – Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya
  • Bakmeegama Shiva kovil
  • Pahala gama Archeology site
  • Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Unknown site at Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda
  • Ran giri ulpotha
  • Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya
  • Mora wewa – Gajaba lena
  • Mora wewa
  • Mora wewa – Kituluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya
  • Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama
  • Seruwawila RMV
  • Pashana pabbatha RMV
  • Lankapatuna
  • Black beach
  • Ruins at Kathiraweli
  • Kathiraweli pre historic cemetery
  • Verugal kovil
  • Kayyankerni ancient rock bridge and ruins
  • 58th mile post Dhageba
  • 40th post Gal kanda mountain range ruins

It was Vesak holidays and i wanted to visit some temples just like i did in 2013. Though I have been to Trinco as a kid I have not properly explored this region. so after some intensive planning with the aid of online and offline literature i was all set for this 2015 Vesak expedition. We knew that this was going to be a tough one especially with the extreme heat but we were up to the task. The added advantage was that every budhdhist temple was decorated for Vesak and it was easy to locate. The disadvantage was that it was too crowded since it was a long holiday.

1 Kanthale Sorouwa

So we left early on and while on the way to Trinco we did have a stop at Kanthale to appreciate the ancient sorouwa right by the side of the road. Since this would be a long report I would stick to the basic details..

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale reservoir

Kanthale reservoir

2 Welgam wehera

To reach this historical location we had to take a short cut from A6 to A12 and proceed towards Mora wewa side and take another right hand turn. This site dates back to 2nd century. The bo tree was once attacked by a mortar and the mortar bomb never explored.

 

Welgam wehera

Welgam wehera

a restored building

a restored building

the statue of budhdha

the statue of budhdha

guard stone

guard stone

the sthupa

the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

3 Kanniya Hot water springs

While reaching back towards Trincomalee one could also visit Kanniya hot water wells and Archaeology reserve. For more info refer this link

4 Tissa hermitage Anandakulama

Just before reaching Trincomalee one would note a unique mountain range and this rocky range harbors some ancient caves. We took the road in front of the provincial educational office which connected to A6. This modified temple is at the end of the lake bund. There are about 3 drip ledge caves close to the current temple but finding those was a challenge.

Anandakulama mountain range

Anandakulama mountain range

statue on the rock

statue on the rock

Anandakulama

Anandakulama

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

another cave

another cave

5 Ruins around Vilankulama

From Anandakulama we returned back to A6 and headed towards 6th mile post where a board saying Vilankulama could be found. There was a pagoda right in front of it on the opposite side of the road and been covered by Teak trees. There was another site close to the bund of the lake and to get to it we had to cross the road side paddy field. The sight of a dug up pagoda just made us feel bad.

Vilankulama

Vilankulama

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

6 World War 2 cemetery

Since it was lunch time we decided to head back to Trinco and have lunch. After having lunch we had to ride towards Nilaweli because there were no beach side hotels to accommodate us. On our way we noted the War cemetery right on the side of B424, few Km’s from Trinco. There were many graves belonging to different nationalities. We had to please ourselves by looking over the gate since it was locked.

War cemetery

War cemetery

all who lost their lives

all who lost their lives

7 Tank farm

After a struggle we did manage to find a reasonable place at Nilaweli beach. Though the surrounding area was crowded it didn’t bother us a bit. After having a small nap we took off towards Trinco. At China bay with a huge bend there was the IOC office where I got permission to visit the Japanese bombed Oil storage tanks. There are about 100 plus tanks and out of these only a hand few is been used. The ride through the forest was very interesting indeed.

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

bombed tank

bombed tank

inside a tank

inside a tank

used currently by IOC

used currently by IOC

8 Fort Frederick

We returned back to Trinco and halted our vehicle close to the beach though we could have driven in to the fort. Our main intentions were to enjoy the scenery and architecture of the fort. So the walk towards Koneshwaram was the best option. It is nice to see that many buildings are still in good condition thanks to the military. By the way people need to stay away from the Deer who live freely in its premises.

Fort Fedrick

Fort Fedrick

entrance

entrance

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

ancient buildings

ancient buildings

9 Dog’s grave

There are few graves close to the car park at Koneshwaram and the interesting thing is some of these belong to dogs.

Dogs grave

Dogs grave

 zoomed

zoomed

10 Koneshwaram Kovil

This is thought to be built by Elara. It also has counter parts like Ketheeshwaram and Munneshwaram at the western coast. This been located on the cliff on Trincomalee has a splendid view point. Out of all lovers leap provides a greater v

Koneshwaram kovil

Koneshwaram kovil

a huge statue

a huge statue

sacred

sacred

expecting blessings

expecting blessings

the drop

the drop

lovers leap point

lovers leap point

11 Gokanna RMV

Just before exiting the fort one could note a temple on the right side with a wonderful view towards Back Bay. This is a historically important site. There were ruins of a statue and a Asanagaraya too. For me the wooden carving of the Budhdha was the most fascinating sculpture.
After enjoying a lovely sun set we took off towards Nilaweli and on our way we came across a vegetarian restaurant close to Sri Lakshmi Narana kovil. This place was called Sri Vari Balaji restaurant. And we did pay a visit on the next two nights too. We loved the food at that place.

Gokanna RMV

Gokanna RMV

statue with the asanagaraya

statue with the asanagaraya

 ruins

ruins

wooden statue

wooden statue

boats at fishing harbour

boats at fishing harbour

dusk

dusk

Day two was all about Tiriyaya – Gomarankadawala route. This was going to be along one and most of the places we visited weren’t even in our to-do list. After enjoying a lovely sun rise at Nilaweli we took off towards Kuchchaveli.

12 Pichcha mal viharaya Kuchchaveli

At Kuchchaveli close to the main road there is an interesting archeology site which everyone needs to visit. There are scattered ruins close to the police station and a small museum too. Main site is a small mountain close to the shore where a pagoda could be found on it. Right at the beginning of the stair way there is a fallen rock with a unique carving of 16 pagodas and an inscription.

room view at Nilaweli

room view at Nilaweli

wow

wow

here she comes

here she comes

lovely

lovely

and another beauty

and another beauty

on the way to Tiriyayaya

on the way to Tiriyayaya

Kuchchaweli historical site

Kuchchaweli historical site

view from the temple

view from the temple

silent shores

silent shores

the pagoda

the pagoda

very very unique

very very unique

these were found at this site

these were found at this site

13 Nagathambarani – Cobra head carving

Ah the number one attraction of the day. We headed towards Tiriyaya and stopped at 47/1 culvert in front of Dayananda’s house and after having a long chat we took off towards Valathamalay mountain (mountain is seen between 49km and 50km post). After a small climb we did come across the cobra carving. And it was a big wow for us. The adjoining cave had a rocky bed and a concaved carving on its roof so one could easily accommodate his head while meditating. For detailed information refer this report from NG. We left Dayanandas place after saying good bye to Him and his wife. We did promise to visit them in near future too.  (  8°53’30.35″N  80°59’52.57″E)

Valathamalay mountain

Valathamalay mountain

guiding us along the ancient pond

guiding us along the ancient pond

the cave and the carving

the cave and the carving

 the goddess??

the goddess??

what a beauty... ah yes this is in the deep forest

what a beauty… ah yes this is in the deep forest

lovely

lovely

governmant servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

government servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

kora kaha

kora kaha

Mangroves

Mangroves

Yan oya

Yan oya

14 Arisimale beach

Ah next we took off towards Pulmude and just before Pulmude we took a right turn and reached the navy camp where an archeology site could be found. After a 500m walk we reached this small bay called Arisimale where the sand looks like “samba” rice. My guess is that this unique geographical location must have caused to filter big sand particles in to this bay.

 ah here it is

ah here it is

At Arisimale beach

At Arisimale beach

just like samba rice

just like samba rice

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

close up

close up

15 Kokilai lagoon

From Pulmude we took the lagoon road and reached the fishing village to have a glimpse of Kokilai bird life.

Fishing village at Kokilai

Fishing village at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

at Kokilai

at Kokilai

16 Giri hadu seya

This Dhageba was built while Buddha was a live and his “Kesha dathu” is been preserved in this pagoda. This blessed Pagoda was done by Thapassu Balluka merchants. There were two caves, two inscriptions and yes a long rocky bridge. When we were at the summit it was close to 12pm and walking around the pagoda was more of a run. From Tiriyaya we took off towards Gomarankadawala.

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

lake at the rocky base

lake at the rocky base

right on the top

right on the top

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

framed

framed

lovely

lovely

the meaning of the main inscription

the meaning of the main inscription

 a cave at giri hadu seya

a cave at giri hadu seya

17 Kiulekada Shailabimbaramaya

From Tiriyaya it was a ride through a forest patch where Elephants roam around in the evenings. At the end of the forest we came across a temple on the right hand side. There were monoliths here and there, a broken statue and a blasted image house by terrorist.

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

these were blasted by terrorist

these were blasted by terrorist

ruins

ruins

18 Kiulekada Shiva Kovil

In front of the temple there is a road which will take one towards and archeology site. There is an old kovil which is been restored. Also one could find a huge Tamil inscription too.

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

 kovil in ruins

kovil in ruins

seems like a shiva devalaya

seems like a shiva devalaya

19 Pahalagama Archeology site

This site is also right on the side of the road and its few km’s from Kiulekada. There is a pagoda, bodhigaraya & image house which has been excavated.

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

a statue

a statue

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

20 Surulumahamuniyawa RMV – Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few Km’s from Pahalagama site, one would come across a board to the right. After traveling 1km one could easily reach this temple. There are few restored buildings here. Those are the Bodhi garaya, sthupa, image house and another building. The monk at the temple was kind enough to treat us as he could. This site also is a must visit place.

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

more ruins

more ruins

 the pagoda

the pagoda

21 Unknown Archaeology site Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few km’s away from Trinco/Medawachchiya there is an archaeology site on the right hand side of the road. There are no houses around this point only a forest patch. We did come across two restored buildings at this site too.

Unknown Archeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

Unknown Archaeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

restored

restored

 another building

another building

22 Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda

One of the main archeology sites in the region. It is said that silver was mined at this point and taken to build Ruwanweli seya by King Dutugemunu. This is a huge archeology site with a museum. There are many caves scattered around the mountain range and one restored pagoda on it. The climb was a difficult one (because of the heat) but yet rewarding. There are few buildings and two pagodas at the base of it too. This is again a must visit place. To reach this place one needs to take the road behind the temple of Gomarankadawala.

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

twin sthupas

twin sthupas

 image house

image house

one of those caves

one of those caves

up we go

up we go

view from ridi kanda

view from ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

23 Gomarankadawala Rangiri ulpotha

This is another interesting archaeology site with a hot water spring. I have been to this site previously and for further information on it please read this.

24 Wilpalamkulama Daksinaramaya

While traveling towards Mora wewa passing Gomarankadawala one would come across this temple where an ancient rock pond, lake and few ruins could be found.

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

the lake

the lake

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

25 Gajaba Lena – Mora wewa

Gajaba lena could be reached by taking the mora wewa lake road from the Mora wewa town. The temple is very well built but the caves are covered by tall mana bushes. So if you want to explore the caves be ready to scratch for few days.

Gajaba lena cave complex

Gajaba lena cave complex

kema

kema

more caves at gajaba hermitage

more caves at gajaba hermitage

a cave

a cave

26 Mora wewa

Mora Wewa Lake was 2km’s away from the temple and we did get permission from the Navy post to visit the lake. It’s not advisable to visit it during the evenings because there are elephants around the lake

mora wewa

mora wewa

 the bund

the bund

birds nesting at Pan kulam

birds nesting at Pan kulam

some pelicans

some pelicans

27 Mora wewa / Weppamkulam/ Kithuluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya

Though the name is a long one it’s a very small temple with few monoliths scattered around a bo tree and it’s found between mora wewa and Kanniya

From here we straight away headed towards Trinco and from there to Nilaweli to end one of the most hectic days in are traveling history. We did manage to visit many places but we were also dehydrated. The beach of Nilaweli was there to our rescue by washing away the tiredness of the day.

board at 162km post

board at 162km post

ruins

ruins

28 Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

On day 3 we headed towards Seru nuwara side. We took the Toppur route to Seru nuwara. While traveling to Seru nuwara we came across a name board directing to another Wilgam wehera. It was a 1km ride from the Seru nuwara road but it was well worth it. There was a huge pagoda with few “palu” trees on it. It was nice to see that there were few devotees observing sill for Vesak at this sit.

Sun rise at nilaweli

Sun rise at nilaweli

longest bridge - Kinniya bridge

longest bridge – Kinniya bridge

Wilgam wehera - Nelumgama

Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

close up

close up

29 Seruwawila RMV

One of the most sacred sthupas in the east and worshiped by many Buddhist pilgrims, this site was crowded on that day because it was Vesak. There were many buildings which were excavated and out of them the sthupa, Bodhigaraya & Pond stranded out. Though there was a museum it was closed on that day.

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

 majestic

majestic

entrance

entrance

lovely piece of archetecture

lovely piece of architecture

well carved

well carved

pond at seruwawila

pond at seruwawila

bodhigaraya

bodhigaraya

a mandapaya

a mandapaya

30 Pashana pabbatha RMV

From Seruwawila we reached A15 and from there we headed south until we came to the junction where a board directed us to the left. This road leads up to Lankapatuna and on the way we came across Pashana pabbatha temple. There were many buildings in ruins and on top of the rocky plateau with inscriptions there were remains of a sthupa. This sthupa was vandalized by terrorist and the Terrorist radio broadcasting tower which was built on it is still visible.

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

view from the top

view from the top

some shelter

some shelter

Terrorist transmission tower

Terrorist transmission tower

an inscription

an inscription

31 Lankapatuna RMV

It is believed that Princess Hemamala and Prince Dantha landed on the shores of Lankapatuna with the sacred Sri maha Bodhi plant many years ago. Now only few ruins could be found on the rocky peak. A new pagoda is built upon the old one. To reach this temple we had to hire a boat which could accommodate 9. They charge 180/= per trip. If you wish to reach it by vehicle it is advisable to take the Thoppur road.

waiting for a boat

waiting for a boat

pond at lankapatuna

pond at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

the new brdige been build

the new brdige been build

32 Black beach

800m’s away from Lankapatuna and towards the north the beach is black in colour. We did have a small walk to have a look at this unique beach before heading back.

black beach

black beach

black it is

black it is

33 Verugal Kovila

This ancient kovil is located close to the Verugal aru and one could easily access this road side kovil

Verugal kovil

Verugal kovil

gods

gods

painted part

painted part

i love this one

i love this one

34 Pagoda at Kathiraweli

Close to 78/4 culvert and between Verugal and Kathiraweli there is a pagoda on a rocky range which is been blasted currently for rocks. It is sad to see and archeology site been vandalized like this. I guess this is a common practice in the east.

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

vandalized

vandalized

35 Pre historic grave yard at Kathiraweli

This site could be easily identified by the huge Pandol like entrance. There is isolated rock with two caves and few carved steps at this site.

Kathiraweli pre historic site

Kathiraweli pre historic site

drip ledged

drip ledged

steps towards heaven

steps towards heaven

36 Kayankerni Ancient stone bridge

Now this is something new and was my main target for the day. Information about this mysterious bridge was first published by Maritime Archeology unit few years back and since then I was seeking for this. It is said to be built across a narrow point of Kayankerni lagoon. The locals believe that this was used by a prince and princes to reach to their school. There is a small archeology site close to it and another huge site 2kms away from it. We were lucky that we had the chance to visit all of them. We reached the Kayankerni Bridge and inquired about this from the police post but they were not aware of it so they called a local boy who was the ideal guy. He straightway asked us weather it was the kings bridge which we seeked for and yes was the answer. So with him we headed north and drove off road towards the lagoon where people catch prawns. From there he took us on a small fishing boat. 5o meters away from where we started paddling were the stone bridge. The slabs which were on it has fallen in to the lagoon and few pillars were even been covered with mangroves. We were so happy that we were able to find this historically important place. After thanking Thushan we headed back towards Trinco (  7°58’45.73″N  81°30’19.29″E)

Kayankerni lagoon

Kayankerni lagoon

halted at the edge

halted at the edge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

still standing tall

still standing tall

remaining pillars

remaining pillars

 ruin site close to the bridge

ruin site close to the bridge

 idi

idi

ruins found 1km away

ruins found 1km away

37 Fifty eight mile post dhageba(Aradhana seya)

On our way back we were treated well at few Dansals given by the forces and the police stations out of those the manyok dansal took care of our need for lunch. At the 58th mile post we came across a pagoda with a bo tree on it. The surrounding was very well maintained. There was a beautiful moon stone just like at Anuradhapura. From this pagoda it is easy to spot Seruwawila pagoda over the paddy fields. When we looked back there were few army officers looking at us with a smile on their faces. We were told that they restored the place and opened it on this vesak day and we must have been the first two curious pilgrims to visit and worship the place.

one of those dansel

one of those dansel

yummy

yummy

58th post dhageba

58th post dhageba

 what a beauty

what a beauty

38 Muttur Gal kanda ruins (40th mile post)

Close to the 40th mile post we came across a tall mountain range and there was a lion’s mouth at its base. We were bit curious so we went there and inquired. We were told that there are ruins on top of the mountain but it would be tough to climb since it was very hot. We decided to go ahead because there was a stairway to the summit. This was one of the best outlook points in Trinco.. We could easily see for miles and the bay of Koddiyar was seen clearly too. The main attraction was the pagoda on the summit. We were told that it is been restored in few days. I recommend climbing this hill so you could enjoy the scenery it provides.

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

what a view

what a view

endless scenery

endless scenery

towards koddiyar bay

towards koddiyar bay

pagoda on the summit

pagoda on the summit

39 Vesak at Trincomalee

After a small rest at Nilaweli we returned back to Trincomalee to enjoy some Vesak lanterns. There were many lanterns especially around the naval headquarters and the roads were packed with pilgrims who enjoyed the walk. This was indeed a unique Vesak night for us.

navy base lit up

navy base lit up

vesak lantern 1

vesak lantern 1

lovely isnt it?

lovely isnt it?

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 3

vesak lantern 3

 lagoon of trinco on vesak day

lagoon of trinco on vesak day

40 Sampur – Attempt to visit foul point

On day 3 our main objective was to enjoy a sun rise at marble beach but we were told that its open only at 8am for the public. So we headed towards the fishing bay to enjoy the sun rise. After a brief stop at Mahaweli river estuary we did proceed towards Sampur. But after a difficult ride we were denied to go past one point since the road ran across a camp. So the attempt to reach foul point was not a success. But we did manage to enjoy the scenery towards the bay from the beach.

another sun rise

another sun rise

 halted

halted

and the owners

and the owners of the cycles

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

 Sampur beach

Sampur beach

close to Foul point at sampur

close to Foul point at sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

Villu kulam

Villu kulam

wow loved this one

wow loved this one

41 Marble beach

When we reached Marble beach it was 8am and already there were 5/6 buses. We did walk around the beach just to feel the calm ocean waves and then decided to head back to Nilaweli.

marble beach entrance

marble beach entrance

very calm

very calm

 loved this place

loved this place

crystal clear

crystal clear

42 Pigeon Island

At Nilaweli we took a boat ride to Pigeon Island, though it was crowded we did manage to have a quick dip. We decided that we should come on another day to spend some time leisurely. So we returned back in half an hour.

on the way to pigeon island

on the way to pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island jr

pigeon island jr

 main land

main land

 welcome

welcome

 coral beach

coral beach

 the shore of the island

the shore of the island

wow

wow

calm and peaceful

calm and peaceful

marine life

marine life

43 Boat ride In Koddiyar bay

Thanks to Amila we had been granted permission to enter the naval base. For 20/= we were offered a boat ride. That boat ride was very educational and we did enjoy every second of it.

boat trip in the bay

boat trip in the bay

 coal ship

coal ship

prima factory

prima factory

Sober island

Sober island

anchored

anchored

another ship

another ship

44 Hoods tower museum

After the Boat ride we headed towards the Hoods tower museum where war artifacts recovered from the terrorist could be found. There was a scenic outlook post at this point too. The tour was an educational one but we had to rush quickly by skipping some sections. They did charge 50/= pp at the entrance.

Hoods tower museum

Hoods tower museum

mini subs

mini subs

sinker

sinker

parts of a boat

parts of a boat

view from the hoods tower

view from the hoods tower

the bay

the bay

ancient fort

ancient fort

bunkers used during WW2

bunkers used during WW2

close up

close up

 view towards the ocean

view towards the ocean

finaly a dansel to end the day

finally a dansel to end the day

Since it was 2pm we had lunch from Trincomalee and headed towards home sweet home to end one of the best planned Vesak holidays ever in our life. Though it seemed like we did things in a rush it wasn’t. It was just our normal pace when we go on trips. I’m happy I have a partner just like me otherwise I would have missed many places I visited during this visit. Hope this would be a good guide on Trincomalee if you have any queries just inquire… Thanks

Loitering around Thanthirimale

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Year and Month January, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Pajero
Activities Archaeology / History  / Scenery / Photography
Weather Clear sky
Route Chilaw -> Mundalama -> Puttalama -> Nochchiyagama -> Oya madu -> Thantirimale -> Billewa -> Pemaduwa -> Mahavilachchiya -> Navodagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Nochchiyagama -> B564 -> Rajanganaya -> Galgamuwa -> Nikaweratiya -> Chilaw
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Oyamaduwa road up to Thantirimale is good, the carpet from there onwards up to Cheddikulam is full of potholes
  • Currently there are archeology boards directing towards all of these sites
  • Avoid early hours and late evenings, there are wild elephants roaming around
  • Ask directions from locals
Related Resources  Wikipedia
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Places of interest

  • Thanthirimale Archeology reserve
  • Bharathanaga lena
  • Pemaduwa arche site
  • Navodagama temple
  • Oya maduwa arche site
  • Mahavilachchiya lake
  • Rajanganaya tank
  • Hatthikuchchi arche site

Map around Thantirimale - click to enlarge

Map around Thantirimale – click to enlarge

Map around Rajanganaya - click to enlarge

Map around Rajanganaya – click to enlarge

When we visited Mannar in 2014 we took the route through Thantirimale and on our way we did note many Black archaeology boards. Since we skipped on Thantirimale during that visit we thought of loitering around Oyamaduwa while the north east monsoons were ending its all island havoc. We knew that Thantirmale was a huge site with an endless rocky plateau so we left home very early and reached Thantirimale at around 6.40am.

Thanthirimale Archaeology reserve
For almost two hours both of us walked around ticking off the list of places of interest in this reserve and we did enjoy this very much because it was early in the morning. Main attractions were the Pagoda, Two Buddha statues, ancient Bo tree, Ruins of ancient buildings, Padanagara, Poth gula, Cave with pre historic paintings, Ponds and the Archaeology museum. There are very well marked direction boards everywhere but yet we missed the rock inscriptions. By the way one should keep away from the rocky ponds because there are Crocodiles in some.
Quote
This temple, which was built in the third century BC has a historical value. When the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi was brought from India to Sri Lanka, one night along the way to Anuradhapura, the pot containing the sapling was kept at Thanthirimale. It is believed that there was one branch separately grew from the pot, was planted at that village to remember the incident. Hence, some believe that this may be the first Sri Maha Bhodi plant in Sri Lanka. The Bo Tree is placed on top of large stony layer which may protect the tree up to now.

misty oya maduwa

misty oya maduwa

End of the monsoon is the begining of the dry season and misty morning is the curtain between both

End of the monsoon is the beginning of the dry season and misty morning is the curtain between both

handy map

handy map – click to enlarge

beware these guys are found at Thantirimale

beware these guys are found at Thantirimale

just blossemed

just blossomed

more boards

more boards

sister bo tree of Sri maha bodhiya

sister bo tree of Sri maha bodhiya

gloomy morning

gloomy morning

a snake?

a snake?

wow

wow

 mastercraft

master craft

ප්‍රධාන සඟරාමය

ප්‍රධාන සඟරාමය

Nelum pokuna

Nelum pokuna

පොත් ගුල

පොත් ගුල

පදානගර

පදානගර

lovely

lovely

 pagoda

pagoda

ah searching for the sun to warm up his fur

ah searching for the sun to warm up his fur

lovely path

lovely path

cave with paintings

cave with paintings

cave paintings at tantirimale

cave paintings at tantirimale

oposit side of the cave has plenty more

opposite side of the cave has plenty more

yes there were many

yes there were many

lovely scenery

lovely scenery

dont forget to climb the rock near the cave which gives some superb views

dont forget to climb the rock near the cave which gives some superb views

Grey-bellied cuckoo

Grey-bellied cuckoo

 drip ledge

drip ledge

close up

close up

 another masterpiece

another masterpiece

restored

restored

endless landscape

endless landscape

lake near Thantirimale

lake near Thantirimale

Billawa/Millawa Bharathanaga lena
From Thantirimale we started returning back on the same road and few Km’s from Thantirimale we came across a name board to the left directing towards Bharathanaga lena. After a 2Km 4wd ride we reached the hermitage. This place is well developed and there were CSD guys for protection too. There are many caves at this site with inscriptions. In one cave we did find some interesting Vedda paintings too.

new direction boards

new direction boards

this way please

this way please

one out of many

one out of many

with inscriptions

with inscriptions

cave paintings

cave paintings

and another

and another

another cave

another cave

interesting hooded cave

interesting hooded cave

view from the rock

view from the rock

end of a dance

end of a dance

i do love these

i do love these

on the way to Pemaduwa

on the way to Pemaduwa

Pemaduwa RMV

After visiting the Billawa site we took off along Oyamaduwa road and at one point there was a board directing towards Pemaduwa. After traveling 5Km’s we reached an ancient temple at a 3 way junction. There was a restored image house and a broken statue at this site.

image house

image house

 fallen

fallen

done with quartz

done with quartz

 bo tree

bo tree

a guard stone

a guard stone

drainage rock

drainage rock

Mahavilachchiya tank

1Km way from Vilachchiya town there is one of those giant tanks of ancient Anuradhapura. This was initially done by Prince Saliya and restored in 1955. It’s an enormous reservoir and the small detour to visit it was well worth it.

specs of mahavilachchiya

specs of mahavilachchiya

massive resorvoir

massive reservoir

done by prince Saliya

done by prince Saliya

had to feel the water

had to feel the water

a resort close to the lake

a resort close to the lake

Navodagama RMV
From Vilachchiya we returned back to the Oya maduwa road (we also could have taken the straight road from Vilachchiya to Oyamaduwa but we did skip it). After reaching the Thantirimale road we started returning back until we came across another black board. There was a temple right by the side of the road. There were ruins of a Tempiti viharaya, Pagoda and etc. The temple is in very poor state and the only monk is having a hard time to even stay there.

pagoda at navodagama

pagoda at navodagama

 flower alter

flower alter

old tempiti viharaya

old tempiti viharaya

ruins near the bo tree

ruins near the bo tree

desperate

desperate

Oyamaduwa Archaeology site

Few hundred meters before Oyamaduwa junction there was another site. At this location ruins of a Tempiti viharaya and a pagoda could be found

oyamaduwa pagoda

oyamaduwa pagoda

another tempiti viharaya

another tempiti viharaya

Rajanganaya Tank

It was 11am and we had visited all those sites which we came to see so we had to expand our plans. So we decided to head towards Rajanganaya. After traveling along very bad roads we reached Rajanganaya lake. At that moment it was filled up to the brim. There was a small rocky hill with ancient steps at the edge of the dam and we did climb it to have a bird’s eye view of this masterpiece. On top of it there was a huge pagoda which has been vandalized by many.

Angamuwa tank

Angamuwa tank

bund of angamuwa

bund of angamuwa

Rajanganaya tank

Rajanganaya tank

livlihood

livelihood

sliding down

sliding down

spilling

spilling

steps towards the sthupa

steps towards the sthupa

the bund

the bund

ancient pagoda

ancient pagoda

 the view

the view

fish eagle

fish eagle

පැල

පැල

Hatthikuchchi Archaeology reserve

From Rajanganaya we took the Mahagalkadawala Rd. few Km’s before Mahagalkadawala there was a right hand turn towards Hatthikuchchi. This extensive forest hermitage is one of those sites that you shouldn’t miss in your life time. There is lot to see and the paths seem never-ending. You would be surprised with the dry zone bird life found here too. This hermitage has been modified over the years by many kings and it’s believed that King Siri Sangabo beheaded himself at one of those caves on the hill top. Main attractions are the 40 caves, Poya house, Prathimagaraya, Bodhigaraya, Watadageya and many more ruins. We did manage to get to the top of the hill though it was bit exhausting. After a long walk we did end our day and returned back to Chilaw with some lovely memories.

Quote

The name ‘Hatthikuchchi’ (හත්ථිකුච්චි in Sinhalese) is a pali word meaning ‘Elephant Stomach’ (Hasthi – Elephant, Kuchchi – Stomach). Its closest Sinhalese name is ‘ඇත්කුස් වෙහෙර‘ ‘Eth Kus wehera’ (Eth – Elephant, Kus – Stomach). This name has been given because of a large rock inside the temple complex which resembles an elephant. The Temple complex is considered to have been built by King Devanampiyatissa (307–267 BC) and one of the oldest Buddhist temple complexes in the country. Later for various reasons this complex was forgotten and by the time of king Sirisangabo this was covered with jungle. It has been taken into consideration that this was the location where King Sirisangabo (251–253 AD) offered his own head to a peasant. 

landscape

landscape

mini lakes at Hatthikuchchi

mini lakes at Hatthikuchchi

 entering the complex

entering the complex

belonging to anuradhapura era

belonging to anuradhapura era

image house

image house

lotus carving

lotus carving

quartz moonstone

quartz moonstone

 there were 50 inscriptions on this rock

there were 50 inscriptions on this rock

Indian pitta wasted 30 minutes of my time

Indian pitta wasted 30 minutes of my time

lovely

lovely

 image house

image house

 its statue

its statue

Where king siri sangabo decapitated him self

Where king siri sangabo decapitated him self

view from the top rock

view from the top rock

nearby lake

nearby lake

what a view

what a view

 the pond on top of the rock

the pond on top of the rock

exiting the complex

exiting the complex

another pond

another pond

Nikeweratiya lake

Nikeweratiya lake

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